Car Fix DIY Videos

@alexakahonda says:

Man keep these videos coming. Great work

@ThePracticalMechanic says:

Great video Mario. Only other thing I would have added is to verify the vent valve resistance is correct in case it is pulling too much current and caused the damage to the FPDM. Corrosion is the most common cause but still worth checking the load amount.

I’m tired of these parts being unobtainable as well. Imports older than 1995 are getting hard to find parts for and domestics vehicles newer than 2010 are hard to get parts for.
We are waiting for TCMs, Ecoboost VCT gears, blower motors, wiper motors, tundra fuel pumps and the list goes on.

@marlinyoung1606 says:

Wouldn’t it be smart to replace the vent valve too or no?

@jameslewis1175 says:

Great video man. Very simple explanations and thorough data

@DependableAutoTruck says:

could you leave the bypass wire connected and everything work ok or would it cause other problems

@DmitriyL_Arithmechanics says:

Here is an entertaining scenario: what if the vent solenoid is partially shorted — still works, but consumes, say, 1.5A instead of 0.5A. And the driver in the FPCM is over-current protected at 1A, turning off the load quickly and trying again shortly after. This would get the solenoid not working, and the 4A light bulb dimly lit, even though nothing is wrong with the FPCM driver in this scenario. Not saying that happened in your case, but something to be aware of as more and more circuits in modern cars receive over-current protection.

@munthirkhan1217 says:

The real question is why a 4 year old rust free car needs to have modules replaced already?

@kenfromsilverdale5675 says:

I would've checked the resistance of the vent valve to be sure that's not what damaged the module to start with as applying direct power and ground to the valve to test it is not fully testing it, it's only testing the mechanical operation of the valve.

@jaseralomary8854 says:

Many thanks…very useful video

@orinmangar2333 says:

It's nuts to be buying a GM vehicle where the module goes bad all the time. Good business for the dealer and mechanics, bad for the customer/owner. Do I need to say anymore?

@gilbertomoran7420 says:

Good job, Mario . I've had some of these before . I usually check power and ground to module (at module connector ) . I noticed you skip checking the power(12v) to the module . I'm afraid to skip that step. But from I gather in this video , is that If you have communication to module , no other codes , and command . Then there is to need to test 12v feed to module. I would only test ground supply to module . Correct ?

@godofthunder6613 says:

Sadly most flat rate techs won't bother to properly diagnose this correctly the first time, instead they'll sell the vent solenoid, flag the the diag and install time and then when that doesn't fix the problem they request additional electrical diag time. The worst part is that most of the techs who do this are praised for flagging so many hours and making the shop lost of money by upper management

@shaffere33 says:

Great diag Mario!!