Here is how to rebuild the TBI (Throttle Body Injection) fuel injection system on a GMC Safari or Astro Van with the 4.3 liter V6 engine. In this video I rep…
Here is how to rebuild the TBI (Throttle Body Injection) fuel injection system on a GMC Safari or Astro Van with the 4.3 liter V6 engine. In this video I rep…
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It wont happen again.Regardless any advice you have since you seem to know
much more than the mechanics i have worked with about these type of engines
would be greatly appreciated. Email me as soon as you can about all this
and since im going to have to do the work done myself if i want it done
right from now on i will have to adapt and learn the ways of my engline
though mechanics is not my main interest i will have to learn to adapt, i
always do and that is one of my main and best qualities 🙂
I checked the Haynes manual and the diagram that came with the rebuild kit,
and they both say to put the metal one in first, then the rubber one, and
then the injector.
It was bad which makes me think more electrical problems it looks burned
but the master mechanic said that wouldn’t be the problem. They even drove
it 2 mechanics yesterday another place and today at the master mechanic,
without the cover on so i could see the engine from the inside of the car
and i could see the fuel actually go into the engine which was kind of
dangerous ( i wont do that again ) and still they didn’t see anything
wrong. Now here is where it get’s more interesting..
Or its possible while removing parts or things to reach the water pump this
happened. Thought the car was mounted and inspected by midas and another
mechanic all day the day before yesterday they still didn’t see anything
suspicious but the mechanic who i think sabotaged it accidentally or
purposely knew i was a pretty smart guy which i am and very analytical, so
he would have had to have found something very difficult to find that he
could mess with that only he would be able to fix. Strange.
The mechanic from yesterday who was so upset he couldn’t find the problem
after checking it and not charging me, suggested i get something called a
“Breakout Box” or something similar. When they do a diagnostic with tech1
or obd1 i think its called tester or reader, whatever, to the computer it
gives you the codes but since that didn’t work since it wasn’t the
catalytic converter or fuel filter as the tech 1 said, then that’s when the
breakout box or whatever its called (to confirm its name tmr
I can’t remember if mine was reversed or not, since it’s been a while since
I did this. The picture in my manual doesn’t show the bumps on the
injectors. I do remember putting both of them in and turning them until the
bump went into the hole.
In the mean time and by the way i appologize for writing this here but
there is no way i see i can send you a private email so don’t get upset i
had no choice i need my car to make a living while i finish school and my
boss is had enough of waiting i haven’t worked in 2 days. So basically i
have had other theories. They also checked the air and that is not the
problem even though the mechanic who fixed my water pump suspiciously
claimed that was the problem.. which leads me to other theories.
Just got me the haynes manual. It does specify that you have to match the
bump with the slots. Thanks!
They have checked the catalytic converter its good. They have checked the
fuel filter it was bad supposedly by midas and they put a new one and its
not the problem. They checked the fuel pump/fuel pressure which these cars
have it low 9 to 13 pounds which no one realized they thought it was higher
until i got involved and researched it ( pounds approximate no exact figure
yet but its in the low to mid tens ) Anyhow they checked all of this and
nothing. Today they checked the distributor.
Anyhow im going to have to copy and pring all this and keep fighting it.
Realistically i don’t think they will find the problem for a while unless
they do an all week massive detalied check on everything and that would
cost me an way too much so i will have to do it myself and in the mean time
lease a car from someone i have already been talking to as a back up plan
to keep driving and keep my job. I cannot be perfect i was a bit careless i
should have recorded or taped the first job.
Now remaining theories are the throttle body which you have a video of and
someone told me that can cause the acceleration problem i have been having
and or someone else suggested it was the Spider cables or something to the
matter of / with the injectors which was an old very good Mechanic place i
used to go to in a different city i have to call back tomorrow but the
assitant to the master mechanic there suggested this i wonder what the
master mechanic will think tomorrow when i ask.
My main two theories so far is that the mechanic who fixed my water pump
either accidentally or intentionally sabotaged my car in order to hussle me
out of money knowing what was wrong since he did it. I hate to think this
but its a real possibility it wouldn’t be the first time that’s happened to
me. Or he accidentally,purposely cut, pulled, tore ect something under the
car or near the water pump that is causing this. I asked them to check this
thouroughly not sure ill find out tmr if they have
I have had no problems with the car up until last year when someone crossed
me on the road but the engine did not get damaged only the condensor and
the radiator along with the hood. Then later the computer had to be
replaced of which circumstances surrounding that i still don’t believe but
i was in as desperate need of my car for work as i am now so i was forced
to do it. Now before the computer change i had no problems with the engine
or acceleration or the electrical.
and what this supposedly does is give you more specific details and error
messages ect about everything in the engine. Sounds like something a
Terminator would do ( trying to make light of the siutation) but anyways
after talking to corporate long story they didn’t want to help and i had to
strong arm them to get involved deservingly so they kept ignoring me and
you never ignore a gmc customer with an old or new car, they recommended i
get it to a gmc authorized tech but i had already tried that
So this is the problem its been having and all i’ve done to try to fix it (
car is in the shop with a so called master mechanic of 35 years experience
and i didn’t like how he handled my car today! or rather his lack luster
assitants ) basically the problem has to do with not enough gas or power or
acceleration power rather. From 0 to 40 the car is very slow to accelerate
and i mean turtle slow and sometimes it doesn’t even do it it just stalls
evenwith the acceleration pedal pushed all the way
in the minute 11.20 you got mistake .the rubber one goes first and the
metal one you put after you install the injector
They had the same tech 1 reader the mechanic from the day before yesterday
had and they would have charged me almost twice as much. And either way i
talked to them again yesterday morning and it was one of the guys there at
the gmc dealer/mechanics that are recommended and affiliated with
corporate, that the guy gave me the master mechanics number. Anwyays they
claim they don’t have a break out box and that its not around anymore. So
im trying to work with corporate and online to find one asap!
Safaris and Astro vans with electrical problems can literally drive people
crazy! I’ve read lots of stories on forums by people replacing everything
to get it to run right. Mine runs rough and stinks like gas now, and I
can’t figure out where it’s coming from. In your case, I would suspect the
ECU computer was replaced with the wrong model. You started having problems
when the computer was replaced. You can watch my ECU video to see how to
replace it.
Hoohoohoblin i need your help asap its a matter of urgency. I have to
explain what’s wrong with my Gmc safari 94 which i think is almost
identical to yours if not identical. Not sure what improvements the 94 has
over the 93 but anyways let me explain i hope you read this by tomorrow at
noon yea its that urgent ive been trying to fix my car for the past week
and no mechanic has been able to do so and im afraid if they do they will
take advantage of my lack of knowledge and overprice me!
I have an 87 safari with a 4.3 just like this one. When I took out the
injectors, the one on the right (passenger side) had that bump facing the
front of the van, and the one on the left was facing the back of the van.
Does it specify in the manual that they have to be installed with that bump
facing the back of the van? I also noticed inside where the injectors go
that the grooves inside the bowls are reversed 180 degrees, which leads me
to believe that they can’t both be installed the same way
again this is all theory until proven but i have analyzed all this from day
one and mind you he didn’t even suggest i check the catalytic or the fuel
pump he already suggested it was something with the air and either they
haven’t found the problem with that or he found a trick to make it do this
or perhaps its something close to the air or indirectly related to it that
could only be realized if it works as part of 2 or 3 systems working in
unison. And would be hard to detect alone.
please refer to the explanation backwards since the messages don’t gow from
top to bottom but yet from bottom to top. Anyways let me give you a brief
background of any problems ive had to better help you diagnose this since
you seem to know more than my inept mechanics. 1st of all ive had this car
for 4 years thought my mom drove it the first 2 years. We got it from a
city auction where city inspectors drove these cars ect. The car has only
now 68k original miles. I got it with only 36k 2yrs ago
After the computer change i have had electrical problems with the lights
and fuses ect having to be replaced often every 2 to 3 to 5 months mainly
the turning signals and lights in the back. As far as the acceleration
which is the Main problem im having now, the engine was hyper for lack of a
better word in the morning after the computer change meaning it seemed like
it was amped up, and i had to wait 5 minutes and let it run to cool down
before driving it. Anyhow a year later ( last 2 weeks )
i’ve had to replace the water pump. Long story i hire this mechanic who
claimed he was honest ect ect but after fixing the water pump my car
started having major acceleration problems almost immediately not to
mention he didn’t tighten up the hoses of the radiator at the bottom
correctly. He seemed to know what was wrong with my car before any mechanic
and there have been several that have checked it the past few days and
can’t determine the problem!! So i had to fire him.
then the engine light turns off. Now in the beginning it came and then the
car accelerated fine so it came and went but the more i drove it the more
it started to get progressively worse and more frequent. So this is what i
have checked so far with different mechanics including so called expert
midas. Mind you i had a test done called the osbd ( spelling ) or tech 1
reader test old school diagnostic. It gave the catalytic converter error,
fuel filter error, and o2 sensor or similar name