http://www.1aauto.com/1A/-/Chevy/S10-Blazer 1A Auto shows you how to replace the distributor cap and rotor on a 2000 Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4.3L. This procedur…
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/-/Chevy/S10-Blazer 1A Auto shows you how to replace the distributor cap and rotor on a 2000 Chevrolet S10 Blazer 4.3L. This procedur…
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If there happens to be a check engine light on in the vehicle, you may want to have the code pulled, it should point you in a direction as to what might be causing the issue. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
I have a sputtering issue, cat is getting replaced, but should i replace distribution block or ignition coils too?.
Hey. I changed my spark plugs and battery on my blazer. The car started up but was straining when it got around 3000 rpm. Today when I went to crank it up it would turn but not completely start up. I’m not sure what exactly to replace and I cant keep hitting and missing. Please help…. Also the car idled at 550rpm and shakes while idling. The shaking stops once the gas pedal is pressed.
You could try to replace the cap and rotor first.
You will want to mark the position of it, so that the timing is correct when you place it back in.
if i remove the distributor from the engine dosnt matter?
Hi Mike,
My 98′ 4.3l has a sputter when it is damp, or wet out. I have been told that i need to replace the cap/rotor. What are your thoughts? Thanks!
It could be. You may want to take a look at it. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
thanks for this excellent video – my blazer with 4.3 runs fine except there’s a loud rattle under distributor cap especially when warming up.. then goes away – is this the distributor bearing going?
It would more than likely make the vehicle run rough more than anything.
Could a bad distributer cause a bad rattle vibration?
Way easier than the starter!! I hate the damn starter on these >_>
Pro tip for people when reinstall use die electric grease makes it easy going on and coming off later
Ok, Thks Men from La Paz Bcs (Mexico.)
yea thats what it is LOL! didnt know the name. It had to have been touching it before but when I changed it I noticed that. It doesnt seem to get really hot just didnt know if it was ok. I dont see another way to make it not touch it tho. Thenk you
It sounds like you may be describing the wire loom that holds the plug wires in place. They should be fine.
I have a 1994 gmc sierra 2500. The spark plug wires have a ton of clips holding them and they run from a metal strip bolted to the engine. I did the plugs and wires and noticed that they were not changed. I also noticed that one or two laid against that metal strip with the plastic holder connected. I ran the engine for a while to see how hot it got and it didnt get hot like the other things. will this metal burn through the wires or is it designed not to and just to hold them?
As easy as that looked, mine was not that simple. The whole distributor had to be replaced because it’s bearing went bad. When I started it up, it sounded like a swarm of bees was under the hood. When I turned it with my fingers, it sounded like a duck. Cost me $530 to have it replaced.
It may, depending on what component is causing the issue.
They’re pretty inexpensive, you’re better off just replacing it.
I have a 96 Gmc sonoma v-6 vortex 4.3L, it has a misfiring problem speficially P0300 random misfiring. It is a , It was was running rough for a well and Today i went to check the wires and plugs, the wires and the plugs are good(reset the gap). i did each one a time and when i was done with cylenders 2,4,6 i fired the engine up and it was running rougher than it was before, and the check engine light flashes. Would replacing the cap and rotor stop the random misfire codes. no other codes read?
I like that hat on the intake. can you sand the contacts clean on those?
It may resolve the issue.Sometimes it could also be a bad spark plug,wire, or rotor too. Hope this helps you out.
if i replace the distibutor would this stop my misfireing?
fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator.just repaired this problem with 2001 chevy 4.3 S-10 blazer.might be a place to start
Spray the new wires and cap with some water from a spray bottle to see if anything is arching out. It’s possible to have a bad wire right out of the box.
I replace the cap and the rotor new wires and plugs. The scanner says that I still have cylinder 5 misfiring. Any one know what it could be?
In removing the Ignition Coil: first you have to loosen the bolt that hold the throttle cable to the carb. I seen it was like 3 or 4. Than when you take out the bolts to the throttle cable plate, put the plate aside and loosen the 2 bolts on the bracket that holds the Ignition Coil and Ignition Module together. Don’t forget to take out the Ignition Coil Spark Plug Wire and the electronic connector to the Coil itself and Module. If this does make your guys repair easier, I hope that you use it.
The serpentine belt tensioner may have lost some of it’s retention. You may want to check it and see if it needs to be replaced.
Thank you for visiting our auto repair channel on YouTube. We’ll keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future.
HERE A VERY IMPORTANT VIDEO YOU HAVEN’T DONE YET I THINK.. DO A VIDEO ON REMOVING THE IGNITION COIL THE THING NEXT TO THE IGNITION MODULE. TELL EVERYONE HOW TO DRILL OUT THE RIVET AND REPLACE IT WITH THE NEW ONE. I KNOW HOW TO DO IT BUT EVERYONE ELSE MIGHT NOT. HOPE YOU READ MY SUGGESTION. IF YOU DONE A VIDEO OF IT ALREADY POST IT TO ME SO I CAN WATCH IT.
Thanks I’m going try to check it tomorrow, It did crank for me today but now it’s missing firing and the check engine light blinks a little then stays on for a min then blinks again.
You may want to check the cap and rotor for condensation.
I need help, I have a 00 jimmy with the 4.3. It cranks up fine but if I let it sit up for 2 or more days and it’s cold it will turn but never crank. I know it’s getting gas cause I can smell it. Does anyone know what it could be.
You can replace the coil while the cap is off. The distributor doesn’t need to be removed.
can you change the pickup coil while the cap is off? or does the distributer have to come out? having hard starts. but when it does start it runs fine.
You may want to check the plugs to see if the truck has spark to them.
If it does this once the truck heats up you may want to check the catalytic convertor to see if it’s clogged.
i changed it and removed upper intake inside was clean so i put it back together i changed plugs wires cap rotor gear was fine sparkplugs plugs were clean and firing pump sounds strong yet it still stalls and if i give more then 1/4 throttle it dies like boggs down and dies unless i do it slowly and it also stalls at idle after a minute or so any ideas?
i have a problem my 98 chevy blazer cranks but will not start do u no what it might be
Sometimes they can become brittle over the years with the heat of the motor.
just did this both lil ears broke also mine was aiming to the lafet is that normal??
thanks for the video, im going to do this to my jimmy this weeked
I would replace any faulty plugs or spark plug wires first, as this may solve the issue for you.
yea i saw the plugs arccing abit but i really think its the coil or my f pump is over heating when i fill it up above half tank it stalls less ive yet to fill it all the way up but my suck tube problly ctacked was -15 c the last couple days so maibe that ?
If you have haven’t tuned the truck up in a while, you may also want to change the spark plugs,wires, cap and rotor. This may also get you truck running smoother if any of these things are worn.
also my dist cap has white on the little contacts i wiped it off but is the burn white or brown?
You may also want to make sure that the catalytic convertor isn’t clogged under the car.
If it hasn’t been tuned up in a while you may want to start with replacing the plug wires, distributor cap and rotor it may help it to start better if they are getting worn.
Very nice video. I have a 96 blazer and im having hesitation when i crank up, sometimes it acts like it doesnt want to crank at all i was told it may be the cap and rotor, told it may be the MAF, fuel pump kicks on, dont have any hesitation accelerating only when i start up. what could it be?