I replace the fuel spider in my 1999 GMC Sierra 4.3 liter V6. The fuel spider also includes the fuel pressure regulator, which is another common point of fai…
How To Replace The Fuel Spider/Fuel Pressure Regulator on a GM 4.3/5.7 V6/V8
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I would suggest taking a look at the MAF. If you disconnect it do the symptoms improve?
Mr Stageberg,
A friend of mine has a 1998 Chevy S10…we replaced the TPS Sensor, MAP Sensor, Crank Postiton sensor and the Fuel sending unit…the only code we get is the P0452 but the new sending unit came with one…so im not sure why its still giving us that code. While its idling if i spray Throttle Body cleaner in it it will die. again as long as its idle it will run…but when its idling and you give it gas it will die. Any help is appreciated. Thank You Sir!!!
Perhaps try disconnecting your MAF. Test your fuel pressure. Connect a code scanner and look at the fuel trims to see if you are running lean or rich. Look for vacuum leaks.
so I got a 98 chevy s10 and it runs fine but when I get to about 45-60mph it starts to idle weird up and down, and also I been getting bad gas milage, I replaced my fuel filter, spark plugs/wires. also my throttle sensor and nothing seems to help. so im lost on what to do, I know it cant be my fuel pump Its clean, so if ya can give me a idea I would appreciate it. thanks
I picked up a remanufactured unit from ebay, it was very affordable. I did not need any special tools.
did yu hav to purchase any extra equip. for the swapor is it direct?? who did yu buy new spider and bracket from?? thanks for any and all help
If you suspect there is a problem with the fuel pump you should rent a fuel pressure test gauge and see if you are developing good fuel pressure.
it just started doing this the last 2 or three tanks of gas but gets worse each time! it dies without warning. i have not drove it in a couple of days but it will fire right up. i took the bed off to change the fuel pump but decided to get more advice befor i paid that much for a fuel pump! now ive watched so much you tube im more confused now than before!! glad i FINALLY found your video’s thx
ive got a 98 chevy cheyenne 4.3 v6 vortex it starts & runs great ! last week it just died going down the highway. i pulled over & it started right up & ran about 5 miles & did it again. again it started right up so i filled it with gas, even tho it had about a quarter of a tank already & drove 15 miles home with no problem. the fuel pump seems to be alot louder then usual but not when its full of gas please help
You make it look so easy thanks.
It has some pretty beefy brackets, I’m sure it’s fine 🙂
Lol im not the only one to put my knee on the ac compressor
I found the new design very confusing as well. They do ‘snap’ in with those white things on 😉
I’m trying to do this same swap on my S10 4.3. I’m completely new to fuel injectors so do you keep the long white ends as you place each injector in? should there be O rings on them? (none came with mine) and since there aren’t tabs like the older ones, how do they “snap” in securely?
If you are doing all the work to get to the fuel pressure regulator then I would recommend replacing the spider while you are there. You can get inexpensive and reliable reman units on ebay pretty inexpensively.
I have a ’99 Suburban. I have to change out the fuel pressure regulator. I don’t want to replace to spider, however. Is it really a waste of time to only change to regulator and not the spider? Thanks.
Thanks Nick. Much appreciated.
Check to see if you are getting good fuel pressure with a fuel pressure test gauge, if you are getting good pressure, you probably do not have a fuel problem. If you need to press the accellerator to keep it running, that points to an air issue to me, I would clean the MAF/throttle body and look for vacuum leaks. You can also hook up a scan tool and see if the fuel trims are adding or taking away fuel.
I have a blazer that starts up and then cuts of like its out of gas.fuel filter, pump, and fuses and relays have been changed or are good…it will continue running if i feed it gas so i believe its a fuel issue…BUT WHAT COULD IT BE, its not showing any codes and there is gas in it
That is an outrageous price. You can see in this video exactly how complicated the procedure is, not very. I strongly discourage use of ‘chemical’ fixes. Sometimes they work, but rarely for good, and sometimes they can cause more problems than they fix.
Great vid. My mechanic quoted price of $800.00-900.00 for repair. We are trying Sea foam for a week. @ question please: (1) Is $800.00 over-priced (2) do you think Sea Foam will help? Thanks
Again great video!
I’m not sure about an exact torque spec, nothing on here is particularly sensitive. Yes I would suggest replacing the fuel spider with the new design if you replace the fuel pressure regulator.
first I want to thank you for taking the time to put this vid for us. question, do the 10 mm bolts need to be torque? and do you recomend changing the spider even thou I’m just trying to replace the regulator? thnx for your time……
Low fuel pressure, fuel pressure bleeding off too quickly, misfire on a specific cylinder, poor performance all around.
If you have the 4.3 then yep.
hi was wondering if this applies to a 2003 sonoma? pu.. very hard to start sometimes and other times starts up like a new truck? any help would be greatful.. thanks terry lumpkins
Was is the typical symptoms of this? Mine has the same engine and takes about 3 seconds to crank when cold. Runs fine and starts right up when warm.
Unfortunately it could be many things. Do you have a check engine light code? Have you done any recent service to the vehicle or did any other event precede this problem?
help… was wondering what will make 1997 gmc miss and backfire thru the throttle body and its worse when it damp weather
Great!
Absolutely right! Had called the garage to discuss the status and they gave me an estimate of 330.03, with 150.~ for part/rest labor. I said thanks, but declined the work. When I picked up my truck one of the agents showed us what exactly needed to be done for starters and while he was doing so, he turned off the engine, popped the hood and as he showed us area needing the work, we saw fuel seep out of the base of one of the Spider Legs! Buying the parts & ckng around. Thx so much for your help!
I googled “2000 silverado 2500 fuel pressure regulator” and clicked on the first link and found some very good information with a walk through on the procedure. It is extremely easy, much easier than the 4.3, it appears I could do it myself in less than an hour, I would not pay more than $200 for a shop to do it.
On average how much does it cost to replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator in a 2000 Chevy Silverado, 2500?? Need to know soon please, as my baby’s being held captive at nearby garage.
The fuel spider is always a good suspect on that year/motor. Defintely want to check your fuel pressure first. I would also check for vacuum leaks or any problems related to air flow, clean your MAF and throttle body, perhaps check your TPS.
Hey man just a quick question.. im havin probs with my 97 tahoe, it idles ok but when i press on the accelerator while in park or startin off moving, it’s stalling and is making a pop puttering sound , it sounds like its coming from the under the throttle body while im reving it up from the engine , could this be a sign of a bad regulator or spider or do u think it might be my fuel pump..
Seems like sound steps to me, good luck!
Good overview. I’m about to tackle an SCPI to MFI upgrade on a 2001 Astro, and this helps (actually, in some ways it might be easier, because I’ve got access to the front AND rear of the engine!) I’ve got rough idle, and hesitations at various speeds. Fuel is rock-solid 60PSI and doesn’t drop. I’ve replaced the TPS, but I keep hearing “MFI” over and over, so I’m trying that next.
You said the noise does not happen when the belt is removed, which indicates to me it COULD be one of the pulleys. If it is not a pulley then it is an accessory operated by the belt, the water pump, power steering, alternator, or AC. You could try sticking a piece of tubing in your ear to try to listen to a more specific source of the noise, or you could get a shorter belt and short-circuiting some of the accessories to isolate the point of failure.
Unfortunately, the price on this can vary widely. I would say anything under $500 parts and labor is reasonable.
I have a 200 Astro van that needs this repair. What is a reasonable price for a shop to charge for this repair? I don’t trust my ability to not have a vacuum leak.