Shop for Big 3 Upgrade kits: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i1209_big-3-upgrade-kits.html?utm_source=YouTube&utm_campaign=How%20To&utm_medium=Youtube%20Description&utm_term=big%203&utm_content=Big%203%20Kits
Get Sponsored by Sonic Electronix – https://www.sonicelectronix.com/lp/sponsorship?utm_source=YouTube&utm_campaign=Sponsorship&utm_medium=Youtube%20Description&utm_content=Big-3-gnmXKjm3tZE
The Big 3 Upgrade improves your vehicles charging system, giving all it’s electrical equipment the current it needs to perform it’s best.
Anyone with an amplified aftermarket car audio system, especially those over 1000 Watts, should seriously consider performing this upgrade. If you’ve noticed dimming headlights, slow window roll down speeds, or voltage drops it’s time to do a Big 3 Upgrade.
Wires to Upgrade / Installation Steps:
1. Alternator charging wire to Battery positive
2. Battery negative to chassis ground wire
3. Engine Block to chassis ground wire
1/0 Gauge wire is recommended as it will provide the lowest resistance and potential current flow, but any size larger than the factory wires will be an improvement.
OFC (Oxygen Free Copper) wire is always recommended over CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum) because of it’s superior conductivity and corrosion resistance.
Examine your vehicle before purchasing an Big 3 Upgrade kit to make sure you have all the necessary tools to do that job, and that you buy the correct length of wire.
*Keep in mind that some car’s batteries are located in the trunk of the vehicle, these will require longer runs of wire.*
Installation Tools and Accessories:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_i3_amplifier-installation-accessories.html?utm_source=YouTube&utm_campaign=How%20To&utm_medium=Youtube%20Description&utm_term=big%203&utm_content=Install%20Tools
More information on the Big 3 Upgrade:
http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car-audio-and-video/how-to-big-3-upgrade/
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Sonic Electronix always strives to be the premiere online shopping destination for car electronics and other consumer electronics. Our slogan is “The X-Factor When Shopping for Electronics” and it is our goal to be just that. We’re here to help you find solutions and great prices without sacrificing service.
Our Store:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/
Our Facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/sonicelectronix
Our Twitter:
https://twitter.com/SonicElectronix
Our Instagram:
http://instagram.com/sonicelectronix
– – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – – –
Big 3 Upgrade step by step
){kind=link}
So I don't need to ground my alternator?
Did you leave the stock battery ground hooked up?
Doing the Big 3 today on my 1996 Audi A4 Quatteo. Already have it in service mode(front bumper, rad support, etc removed). This video helped me make the decision to leave my factory power wire intact, just adding to the OE wires with my Big 3 kit(got mine from Skar Audio, 1/0 gauge kit). The engine to chassis ground isn't going to be too bad, it's easily accessible now that the front is off the car. The battery to chassis ground has me somewhat concerned, as the whole battery tray area is quite rusty. It's gonna be a lot of cleaning to get her right I think lol. Thanks for this truly helpful watch!! Made this job WAY easier to understand.
Stainless steel hardware connected to regular carbon steel makes corrosion much worse. Do not do that. Stick to factory body bolts.
I've installed 'the big 3' in several vehicles. What I noticed, after the fact, was easier & more consistent starting, and the interior lights were slightly brighter.
Of note, on every connection point, I applied a very small amount of dielectric grease. Yes, this grease prohibits electrical conductivity – when pressure is applied (ie. when you tighten a nut or bolt) the dielectric grease pushes out of the way, thereby allowing a solid metal-to-metal connection, but the remaining dielectric grease acts as a 'seal' from outside elements. I've been doing this for over 15 years and it has helped increased the electrical consistency with each vehicle I've done this on.
It is a smart move to make sure there is a 30 amp fuse on the wire that leads from the alternator to the battery – the fuse is best placed as close to the alternator as possible. This is just in case the sheathing of the wire becomes damaged and exposes the wire inside – the fuse will pop before it would short out anything electrical (ie. ECU, fuses, relays, etc).
Maybe next time you use the right cable lugs. At the alternator for example you used a M8 lug on a M6 screw. And its better to use industrial standart lugs than those thin "hifi" lugs.
Also you can use electrically conductive paint.
Good video.
If you only deal with larger gauge wire once in awhile, it is hard to justify spending $40-50 on a larger, hydraulic type crimping tool. so see below.
Instead of "crimping" you can "solder" you end connections. Just make sure you have "solid" connecter, and not two pieces crimped together for best results. Take your connector drill a small hole where you would normally crimp. Dip the wires into flux and place into the connector. Now heat the connector, once hot keep the flame/heat on the bottom as much as possible and now feed your solder through the hole. Once done make sure to add a heat shrink piece to cover up the hole and secure connector to wire.
Can i do this on my 04 dodge stratus 2.4 also the problem im having is the lights diming
You never add a wire. Always CHANGE the wire to an uprated current wire of the correct cable type. the simple reason for this is that you need to allow for the maximum permissible amperage of the cable run. Adding a wire really doesn't make it any better, if one wire fails, you have a live floating around also unless both wires are rated for the maximum permissible amperage and a bit more, you'll overload the wires and cause a fire, if you haven't already got that with a broken live cable.
What is the big 3
As a former telecom tech, you could never have enough ground.
Its good idea to upgrade those battery terminal wires, because over time the wires ger corroded.
I have a2015 Volkswagen Passat. Can this upgrade be done to my car.
I have a 2004 Corvette. What about grounds and grounding on it? I've read that there are up to 7 ground locations on this year Corvette. Thoughts and Information? Best Regards
Hi, everyone. What is the actual benefit of such an intervention? All I can think of is reduction of resistance. Will it have a measurable benefit, though? For the rest, the cablework was neat and enjoyable to watch.
What do these upgrades do???
I have a GMC Sierra and it's hell trying to remove the bolt where the ground is fastened into the block.
I got a real ground wire. That looks like a thick wick for desoldering, you can see it on semi truck cabin to frame connection. Engine is a moving part and needs something flexible…