Installation of carrier bearings, pinion bearings, ring and pinion and a crush sleeve are covered in this video. The main tricks given in the video are about…
How to install or change or replace gears and bearings in a rear end or differential
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only have 50,000 miles and need nearing on my Silverado too expensive.
Tech Video Friday!
Installing or replacing gears and bearings in a 8.5 inch GM 10 bolt out of
a second generation F body.
Incredible, you’re very mechanically inclined! Only if I could do a
procedure like this with confidence.
How hard do you think it would be to do this job without a lift? You
probably wouldn’t of been able to get a tool big enough for leverage as you
did? All in all, I hope I don’t have to repair my differential like you
did!
How long did this instal take you? I’m lookin to put 4.10s in my silverado
Appreciate the video. My Trans-Am was much the same. Thanx.
what was your over all pinion shim size and should i start off with at size
i have a 69 chevelle with a 12bolt and 3.55 on a truetrac
Clearly, this is not something I should attempt myself 🙁
How much does that cost to install in. A 350z
Awesome video mate, rebuilding my ’80 WB Kingswood tonner (You’ve probably
never heard of this it is a Holden model) 350 chevvy small block n/a aussie
4 speed and I’m swapping the diff gears out from 3.55 (factory standard) to
2.78 for better highway driving!
much easier to get the pinion bolt off with the car/truck on the ground
with the differential still in rear end housing!
What did you use to drive the outer race out? Was it a hand made tool?
This is why I will only operate FRONT WHEEL DRIVE cars!
Watched this video many times to rebuild the 12 bolt axle on my 68 Impala.
I got the running torque on the pinion higher than you recommended in your
video. It is at 32 in-Lbs. The bearings are dry, no axle fluid added yet.
Is that too much? Should I disassemble it and try with a new crush sleeve?
Thanks!
How much you charge?
Good job. I have yet to get my hands on my rear deferential. I have a 63
impala with a deferential that looks similar to a ford 9″. Wish I had a
back plate. Have to drop the whole rear end. Nice work
good video Learned a lot I want to install a posi unit in my 57 chevy 10
bolt
@hosscaddy I’m not sure. Maybe you could call a tech line like jegs,
summits or Richmond gears.
Great video! Im getting ready to put gears in my mustang.. anything to know
if youre going from lsd to a full locker?
Anything is possible with enough ambition. My first couple rear end gear
changes didn’t turn out that great via whining and what not. Reading tooth
contact pattern can be difficult and won’t be fun crawling under a vehicle.
Crush sleeves do take a great amount of force and I’ve had loose rear ends
spin while torquing the crush sleeve. If this is a must have vehicle my
advise would be to take it to the professionals. The few hundred dollars
they charge is well worth it if they get it right.
Brilliant video – but it’s convinced me I need to pay someone else to do
this 🙂
Nice job!….especially getting the depth right on. Your drive pattern was
slight deep which is the way to go….the coast looked great too. I like it
when the coast is close to the heel. That doesn’t happen all the
time….especially with Toyota 8″ stuff I have noticed. ZUK
Discuss world record!!!!
This Was really a good video! i have 2 questions: Do i need a new crush
sleeve for every time i assemble and then disassemble to change shims on
the pinion? Can i do this whitout the pinion depth measure tool? // Swedish
Guy!
@newmoneyentkashin Sounds like it’s time for a new crush sleeve then
rotation torque to spec. The spec is a little different for new and old
bearings. Good luck.
thanks for taking the time to make this video. for my diff there is no
specification for pinion depth, so when i do the dummy fit, do i tighten
the pinion nut until i have the correct pinion preload? or just tight
enough so i can’t feel any play? is getting pinion preload only possible
when using a crush sleeve? and will the depth be affected once reassembling
with a crush sleeve and setting pinion preload? sorry for all the questions
@jmiles1960 I’m in Wisconsin. Glad you enjoyed the vid.
Great walk through video, I wish I had a spot set up like u to work on my
car, i’d most likely do what you did at the very end lol, after all that
work its little stuff like that that makes the job worth wild, awsome job
If it’s making clicking or knocking noises – it is the yoke getting loose
on the pinion spline end – it could be that the spline on both – the pinion
and inside your yoke are getting worn out badly. It could lead to a death
on the rode – so take this very VERY seriously – if you toss a drive-shaft
and it goes across the road and hits somebody – it could cause somebody to
get killed in a accident. Have a pro check it out if you’re just not sure !
i wanted to change my ’97 Formula to 3.23, but that looks way to hard for
me to attempt
Very informative, thanks.
Great video, I am also surprised at how much those shims can change the
contact pattern. I think using the old pinion bearings to determine your
depth is very convenient, but do the new bearing ever vary in size enough
to throw off the contact pattern?
Great video!! Seems to complicated for just anyone to do this. Guess I’m
not going to do my own gear change. I don’t think I would trust any
mechanic around here to do mine, Not like the way you did it. You did a
very thorough job!!
Good stuff! I work as a technician and did a rear axle job a few months
ago. A Ssangyong Musso with broken rear axle diff. Original diff would have
costed around 3500 usd but i found out that Ssangyong had used a DANA44
diff so i went for an Eaton True trac replacement differential. 1100 usd
incl shipping and all. Think my costumer also got a stronger diff with the
Eaton one. It looked really strong built. Thanx for great upload man!
You’re the man! This vid helped me understand this a lot better! Rebuilding
my Ford 8.8 this week with a mini spool! Thanks a bunch!
Hope I’m not being picky with this but if you enlarge the inside diameter
of the pinion bearing wouldn’t that promote deflection of the gear itself
under load and give a false wear pattern on the ring? I realize the
clearance might have been only +.001 but that would be +.0005 of movement.
Still a great video though. Makes me remember why I don’t attempt stuff
like this laying in my driveway and prefer to pay a shop :o)
Best video for ring and pinion I’v watched.I do a bunch of these,but was
just interested in your technique. You’re thorough with the job at hand.
Got it off the internet and put a adapter on it. I’d have to look but I
think it’s a 3/8″ drive and I used a 3/8″ to 1/2″ adapter.
It had a small leak after fill with fluid.
Great video! I have watched your video several times as I am in the process
of swapping out the carrier and gears out of my 73 Lemans. Question – What
beam torque wrench do you have that sensitive enough to read 20 inch-pounds
and attach to the 1/2″ drive socket for the 1-1/4″ pinion nut? I am trying
to track that down. Thanks!
nice video . i have a 93 chevy blazer 1500 and my yolk is loose. like i can
twist my drive shaft just a tiny and i was wandering if you cold tell me
wat you think is wrong or wat i need to replace. it doesnt make any noise
or anything while driving the only thing it does is when i put it in
reverse you can hear it thump into it its not smooth but not horrible
I like the c-clip design for ease of removing and inspecting the axles. Gm
did have a clip eliminator type rear end also but removing the axles
without messing up the seal was not as easy. I ended up snapping a axle on
the one I had after the flange and the tire went free anyway. It’s
questionable on which axle is better when it comes to strength, setup and
cost. With out a doubt the removable center section on the Fords is nice.
Thanks for the post.
Fucking super nice video! It’s more job than you would think. It also takes
a lot of special tools. Watch this video carefully if you’re thinking of
doing something similar.
@jesusloc818 3.42