In this video I bring you along as I swap out the rear u-joint on a 2005 Chevy Suburban that still has the factory nylon injected u-joint. According to service data you are supposed to press these lil guys out. I have been using the heat method for about 25 years with no issues. You use your discretion when doing yours and always follow service data.
-Enjoy!
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
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Invest in a Arbor press, much easier and faster my friend
looks like one clip shot out some where and you didnt catch it , it looks like that anyways
Had to do this pre youtude.
Been using heat on nylon joints for decades myself, then replace them with a small ball pien hammer, always been a fan of the heat especially when replacing front shocks on Ford I-Beam suspension, Those radius arm studs on the bottom always break off without the heat wrench, and the arms are no fun replacing when a stud breaks.
I used to take a brake wheel cylinder flex hone and wd40 and zip it in and out of the cap holes a couple of times in the shaft. Always came out shiny clean.
More brilliant GM engineering! Great video, thanks!
Don't be surprised if you have a driveline vibration after the replacement. GM was not very exact on the placement of the joint in the shaft with the plastic injection Lock method. They were balanced afterword's and if the joint needs replaced later and the mechanical locks are used the shaft and joint position may not be where the balance was before the replacement . Had a garage my whole life and we learned let the customers know up front that it may be out of balance after the replacement and the shaft assembly may need rebalanced.
First time I found one of those, I was super confused how it came apart. So I tried to press it and nothing happened.. So I added some heat, and it started oozing out. Enough of that and it came apart.
What a terrible idea.
Eric O’…Thanks A lot! Now I know what I did wrong on my Drive shaft! I did not see a link for that handy Grease gun extension. And, I thought that the Gulf hat was distressed by your Dad.
I've put a hundred of those in. Usually heat the first cap until the plastic starts coming out then lay the u joint cross across the the vice jaws and rap the driveshaft beside the cap and the cap pops out, then do the other side. Very little torch use that way and at $300 a tank for acetylene you need to use the torch sparingly. The plastic will be sheered off that way and won't have to be removed either. Done a bunch of the double cv u joints this way too.
IT'S like squeezing a pimple and watching the pus ooze out.
Back when I was a teenager, I knew a lady who owned an auto parts store, and she had an MGB as her "fun car". I would spend time at her store and would make deliveries and run errands for her, and she would let me drive the MGB. This little sports car was prone to u-joint failure to the point that she kept a spare u-joint and a pair of pliers in the car, and she would replace the joint on the side of the road!
Eric does your fingers hurt in the mornings?
Great video!
That looks pretty clean for a 2005! Must be FluidFilm!!
Can't find Spicer joints around here either.
I'm guessing you didn't notice the parts cleaner when heating up the drive shaft.
I used to do tons of these back in the day when I was a mechanic up in Washington state. Always enjoyed taking the torch to these and watch them squeeze out the hole.
I had a local shop rebuild the driveshaft on my 1985 F-150 with Spicer non-greaseable u-joints. Glad I went with them after hearing your vote of confidence.
Wow I’ve been a tech for almost 15 years and have never known this lol, we honestly don’t do a lot of u joints down in the ole south, they’re just not something that go bad all that often, so I’ve never known GM did this
WAAAIIITTT!!!!! Did I hear titties???
I always giggle when i see Kum Ho tires.
SMA collab with Dr. Pimple Popper.
Honestly seems like a waste of time and unnecessarily heating up everything compared to the traditional hammer, vice, socket method.
Nice work Mr. O! Tight caps going in. My Dad used the LARGE vice and a few well positioned nuts on his bench to press the caps in with a few "light taps" from a hammer to center everything.
What about aluminum drive shafts? Are the "U" joint ends steel? How do you press out the joint caps on those shafts?
You do know how to set a proper flame on a oxy-acetylene torch? I didn't see one ..
I can smell this vid. I did an exhaust repair on an 08 Durango Hemi with 311307 miles on it, and the U joint at the rear diff still had the nylon retained OEM joint in it. That's one of those Unicorn Mopars. I like to say that the joint is "making cinnamon" when I see rust dust, pro tip, it is not as good as real cinnamon !