Update: I have received several comments from people saying my method reuses contaminated fluid which is a no-no. I agree that would be bad except in my case, I had just finished replacing…
Update: I have received several comments from people saying my method reuses contaminated fluid which is a no-no. I agree that would be bad except in my case, I had just finished replacing…
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Nice idea but it’d be better to replace the fluid with new rather than
reuse filtered brake fluid that has absorbed an unknown amount of water
during it’s life and during this kind of bleeding (brake fluid
is hygroscopic). You don’t do this with your motor oil so why do this with
something that is a critical component in the stopping of your vehicle?
How does this method bleed the ABS? Can anyone explain? I was told that you
need an ABS scanner tool to actuate the ABS & solenoids inside WHILE
bleeding. ’97 F150 4WD w/ rear drums/shoes & RABS.
You probably have air in the lines
Interesting Idea. I’ve bleed the ABS to the point were I have clear fluid,
but I still have a sponge pedal. The bleed ports are real close to the
reservoir, so this may work and safe time. Thanks.
never use t-tape. Thats like putting it on a snow plow set up. It will get
eaten up if left there and break down and mess stuff up. Big mess.
Although you should never put anything near the braking system that could
contaminate It i like your general idea very sick i’m going to try it the
best thing to do with your bleeder screws are replace them if threads are
worn and torque them to spec engineers know what they’re doing but overall
good job
how about you enlighten us on the right way to do it.
the tape is only there to prevent air from leaking in around the bleeder
screw. no.. the tape didn’t dissolve while I was bleeding the brakes
(~20mins)… and when I am done bleeding, I tightened the bleeder screw
tight anyway so there is really no worry. actually, it may act as a
corrosion inhibitor so the bleeder screws may actually come out some day in
the future if necessary.
When it comes to ABS, I don’t really understand how they hook in. With my
son’s Jetta, I had to bleed brakes in the usual way, and the ABS unit
didn’t really come into play. I’m guessing that’s because I didn’t open the
ABS connection to the MC, so no air got into the ABS side. Presumably if I
bled the system dry then there would be a more complicated procedure. I’ve
heard it said that if the ABS side goes dry you may need an OEM scan tool
to help purge that side.
Cool. I have done this. I just replaced all the old brake fluid with new
brake fluid AND the used your method to continually bleed out “difficult”
brakes with no need for having 5 litres of brake fluid in hand. It works
very well. Then take your vehicle for at real tough ride with a lot of
tough braking to let the ABS system kick in. This is the poor man’s way of
bleeding the air and the old brake fluid in the ABS system. Then go back
and bleed the entire system some more.
Hi, I would like to thank you for this idea. It worked great.You were very
smart to come up with the idea ..Thanks 🙂
Did you seriously just say you put the fluid back in?!? Thats a HORRIBLE
idea. Fluid is hygroscopic; and EXTREMELY corrosive… Putting teflon tape
is only going to put teflong tape goo into the lines because fluid will
quickly melt and be useless. Please… anybody watching this; DO NOT re-use
fluid, and DO NOT use teflon tape around the threads… just grease around
the thread before you crack it to not allow air in. Teflon tape is
worthless to brake fluid…
I’d like to thank you I used this method for my 95 Riviera and it worked
great . Thanks
This method worked great on my 99 dodge caravan. However I didn’t reuse the
brake fluid. I just replenished the fluid level with fresh fluid. Good way
to flush your system with new brake fluid I thought. Thank you for your
method. The hose only cost me $4.50 for 20′ at lowes. I’m going to use this
method to bleed any other brakes I’m going to bleed in the future. GO TIGERS