Good video as usually, but I have to disagree about tack welding on a
bearing . . . that’s always a bad idea. Even microscopic distortion that
you can’t see can be enough to significantly shorten the bearing life.
1 or 2 centre punch marks on the housing ID would have been enough to
retain the bearing, much easier than tack welding and no distortion to the
bearing.
Love your videos for simple fixes. One suggestion for your tool inventory.
If you’re going to do bearing swaps, I would purchase a set of bearing
drivers. They are for standard bearing sizes, but they make it much easier
to drive the bearings out and back in, without possibility of damage. EIS
Holden and Essex Brownell are two possible places to get them. As for the
lip to keep the bearing retained, a center punch will do the trick nicely.
Seat the new bearing, put the tip of the center punch against the inside
wall of the journal next to the bearing about every 30 degrees. When you
hit the punch, it raises up a small circular area of metal.
How can I find out which puller I need? I believe I need the same one shown
in the video but I am not sure. Tried calling multiple parts stores only to
be offered a complete puller set since I don’t know exactly which one.
1994 Buick Le Sabre Custom
I did not know those could be changed out, everyone here said you have to
change out the whole compressor. This will save a lot of money for people
wanting to do the repair by themself. Thanks.
Good stuff! I’ve replaced noisy alternator bearings too…definitely worth
the extra labor than putting in a junky reman unit. Have you ever seen a
failing A/C clutch that turns on intermittently? My guess to the cause
would be the stator coil shorting out when it heats up…
Good job.
You always make it look so easy. Much cheaper if it doesn’t need re
gassing.
very good tutorial……..tony
Thanks for the video. Good info
Thanks 65!
Do you know if the seal can be replaced on a car a/c compressor shaft
Thanks ….I need to do this. Didn’t know how easy is was.
Good video as usually, but I have to disagree about tack welding on a
bearing . . . that’s always a bad idea. Even microscopic distortion that
you can’t see can be enough to significantly shorten the bearing life.
1 or 2 centre punch marks on the housing ID would have been enough to
retain the bearing, much easier than tack welding and no distortion to the
bearing.
nice vid thanks.
Good video. You have the same bearing puller I have. Your hammer looks
older though.
Bruce
Love your videos for simple fixes. One suggestion for your tool inventory.
If you’re going to do bearing swaps, I would purchase a set of bearing
drivers. They are for standard bearing sizes, but they make it much easier
to drive the bearings out and back in, without possibility of damage. EIS
Holden and Essex Brownell are two possible places to get them. As for the
lip to keep the bearing retained, a center punch will do the trick nicely.
Seat the new bearing, put the tip of the center punch against the inside
wall of the journal next to the bearing about every 30 degrees. When you
hit the punch, it raises up a small circular area of metal.
It looks like we both need a hydraulic press. Nice work.
How can I find out which puller I need? I believe I need the same one shown
in the video but I am not sure. Tried calling multiple parts stores only to
be offered a complete puller set since I don’t know exactly which one.
1994 Buick Le Sabre Custom
Hi Moe. Excellent DIY.
I did not know those could be changed out, everyone here said you have to
change out the whole compressor. This will save a lot of money for people
wanting to do the repair by themself. Thanks.
Nice job,,
another great vid man
No setting air gap footage?
Excellent Bro..
Nice…a $20 bearing and a little labor beats a $500+ compressor
replacement. Thanks for sharing!!
Great info awesome
Good stuff! I’ve replaced noisy alternator bearings too…definitely worth
the extra labor than putting in a junky reman unit. Have you ever seen a
failing A/C clutch that turns on intermittently? My guess to the cause
would be the stator coil shorting out when it heats up…
Thanks sixtyfiveford. Do you really need 8 tack welds to hold the bearing
in though? Isn’t that a little excessive? ;)
Smashing tutorial as allways mate 🙂
I dont have a welder so i think i would lightly coat the inside with
locktite then tap the bearing in. As you said though it isnt likely to move
🙂
Ive used the north/south/east/west tapping method for removing and
inserting washing machine bearings, you just have to be patient and it
works :-)
How about locktite instead of weld? I’d probably fry the rubber seal
protecting the bearings?
Thanks man!
Good vid man !! Honda cars suck . They put they compressor in the bottom
of the engine bay and there is no room in there
nice fix
No setting air gap footage?
LIKED AND COMMENTED AND FACEBOOKED..
i assume that had the 3.8L motor ..great motor .. my father has the
grandprix GTP .. AC clutch bearing still working fine..