We do an EPIC and fully detailed disassembly repair and rebuild of the upper control arm with new genuine GM bushings and ball joints as well as replacing the forged lower control arm ball joints. This video is specific to GM old body style (OBS) 8-lug 4WD K trucks (Suburban Cheyenne Silverado Sierra) such as the K2500 and K3500 or the K1500 with 6.5L diesel engine option. GM part numbers and factory service manual torque values are provided along with special tools and techniques required.
The video shows the procedure performed on the drivers side of a 1998 Chevrolet Cheyenne K2500. Most 4×4 8 lug vehicles across the years covered should be very similar if still using the original GM factory suspension on OBS 1992 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 Chevrolet GMC and Holden vehicles like the Silverado Sierra Blazer Cheyenne and Suburban. This is a very long and detailed video with something for everyone doing one or all of these three component (UBJ, LBJ, UCAB) repair procedures including:
– Removal and reinstallation of the front disc brake caliper assembly
– Removal and reinstallation of the steering knuckle spindle rotor hub speed sensor assembly
– Removal and replacement of the pressed in lower ball joint and fasteners using a ball joint press
– Removal and reinstallation of the upper control arm assembly and temporary wheel alignment
– Removal and replacement of the upper control arm bushings
– Removal and replacement of the riveted upper ball joint and fasteners
– Removal and reinstallation of the control arm dust shield
Here are some eBay affiliate search links to help you locate the parts covered in this video:
GM part 12377901 (Loctite 680 10ml): https://ebay.to/35NABiS
GM part 15607586 (upper control arm bushing): https://ebay.to/2QK2KTD
GM part 15969282 (upper ball joint): https://ebay.to/35MlwOF
(includes cotter pin 12337997 and castle nut 15529829)
GM part 12387682 (lower ball joint for forged lower control arms as shown in video) *or* part 12383410 (lower ball joint for stamped/welded lower control arms NOT shown in video): https://ebay.to/2t80koU
(includes cotter pin 12337997 and castle nut 15529829)
Harbor Freight Pittsburg ball joint press kit: https://ebay.to/3ilfKKm
GM part 12377985 chassis grease: https://ebay.to/2rsTBoX
And if I’ve saved you some $$ here, consider some coins for the coffee tip-jar! https://ko-fi.com/drshock
#drshock
Disclaimer: DrShock, the alias for the human content creator for this YouTube channel, is not responsible for any damages, injuries, losses, or liabilities associated with any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance performed on yours, or any other, vehicle whatsoever. No warranty, express or implied, is made as to the accuracy or completeness of any information provided within this channel. Viewing and using the “as-is” information of this channel is totally at your own risk. Always wear personal protection equipment and follow appropriate vehicle manufacturer service manual guidelines with original manufacturer parts only when performing any repairs, upgrades, or maintenance upon any vehicle.
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EXACTLY what I need to do on the same vehicle. The Haynes manual made it seem like a daunting task. After watching your video it isn't anything I'm not capable of doing. And every time a question popped into my head, you answered it. GREAT job. You saved me a gang of cash. And major props for not cursing. I did it for you while watching. LOL
What is the name of the dust shield and where can I buy it? Thank you in advance
I'm doing the same job. I can't find a replacement control arm with the shock mount anywhere. They were discontinued years ago.
I recommend putting a piece of wood or sumthin under the upper control arm so it dosnt move as much
Real mechanics couldn't make a living doing things this way.
you should always pull the axil after removing upper ball joint before the lower ball joint
Awesome video dude! I have just 1 question. How do I verify if I have a forged or stamped lower arm?
only thing i would add is a pickle fork for those ball joints. would have sped up the process
Great Video !! I ama going to do a full replacement of the front suspension on my '97 Suburban.
Great video with very detailed instructions. I like how you show what the manual shows not just going by what you tell you can back it up by the book.
This was a great video you demonstrated how to remove and replace ball joints and upper control arm bushings. I had one question though. I see you didn't replace the lower A/arm bushings was that in another video or they were not needing replacement? Great instructional video.
1999 Denali still have original front end steering & suspension Checked ball joints few months back they do need replacement not because there is play but the rubber on ball joint disintegrated. Correction I did have to rebuild my steering box seals.
This was a fantastic video, you actually showed your goof's that alone speaks volumes!!!
Did you have to take the tension off the torsion bars to do this repair?
Most automotive shops are hacks & do it as quick as possible. I would not trust them on drilling out the rivets. I have aircraft rivet guns & bucking bars. You can punch out the rivets shanks using a punch set with the rivet gun once u drill the head off. Aircraft rivet guns have slower harder hits then air hammers. Using a 4x or larger if available. Also back it up the rivet gun with a heavy bucking bar next to the rivet tail on the opposite side. If u put back the original rivets don't try using a air hammer it will work harden the rivets before there bucked. I recommend a 6x rivet gun & heaviest bucking bar u can find. You did a great job. Thanks
Thank you Dr. Shock, you produce excellent videos inclusive of all important details, excellent camera work, and articulate dialogue!
Watching this, I've got renewed confidence that I can accomplish this job on my '98 Tahoe 4×4.
I'm going with new UC arms complete with new bushings and ball joint. The extra $40-$50 are worth my time and frustration dealing with rivets and that dang C-clamp press…lol
Thanks for the video. One suggestion though, remove that smart watch so the shocks of your tools don't damage it.
Another question: On a 1996, K2500, 8600 GVW, are the inner and outer tie rod ends the same on both sides? Rock Auto does not list the number per vehicle in the parts listings. For example, I purchase 4 front anti roll bar/sway bar bushings as it was listed as "bushing" not "bushings" so the one box had the two I needed, but I ended up with four as I ordered "2" bushings (which meant 4). Thanks is advance!
Thank You. Really. You are a good person to supply this to so many.
I had to do this job (minus upper bushings) on my '95 last summer. 190k and still the original ball joints. I wonder if I will get anywhere near that mileage on the replacement moogs.