RV DIY | CHEAP HANDLING FIX FORD F53 CHASSIS

RV DIY | CHEAP HANDLING FIX FORD F53 CHASSIS

Hi everyone and welcome back for another video. In this video we take you on a step by step RV DIY Cheap Handling Fix for the Ford F53 Chassis. What is the Cheap Handling Fix? It is when you move the sway bar link to the inner hole causing the sway bar to be stiffer and the sway to be reduced.

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Comments

Memphis Rein says:

I’ve been a mechanic for 25 years. DO NOT DO THIS!!! It puts to much stress on the connecting bar and will snap them and could cause a serious wreck. This is a terrible dangerous hack.

Mike W. says:

Agree with Bill Taylor – take the bolts off BOTH SIDES of the stabilizer. I did it the way shown, and it was very dangerous. I got one side bolted on, and when I took the nut of the other side the tension from the complete (tighter) side caused the bolt to bend, and the stabilizer bar to snapoff. If my hand had been anywhere near it, I'd have lost it.

For the rear, took the bolts off both sides, then swiveled the the sway bar up to the align the stabilizer bar with the rear holes. Only need the jack a smidge to align the holes.

Chris Self says:

First of all, you do not need a jack. Loosen both bolts. at that point you can easily slide the bolts out by hand. You might need a mallet and punch, but no jack. the rest of this video is correct. I am a retired Mast Technician with Chrysler an Ford.

Kevin Zoll says:

Hey Guys! Great info! I just purchased my 2015 Winnebago Brave. I would like to try this out on my rig. What I would like to know, is after 4 months on this, are you still happy with it? Do you still recommend it? I drove my MH home after purchase for total of 70 miles, and boy was I rocking and rolling and being shoved all over the place. I would like to lessen that for now before I can afford all the new bars and Sumos.

Jon Reeves says:

F53 chassis are also used for commercial hauling vehicles and the other holes are there if the vehicle is to be used commercially. Moving it does not void warranty or exceeds impact force on the sway bar beyond its capacity. The fix works great both front and rear. Check the condition of the rubber bushings while you are down there.

EG Roth says:

Thx for the video. How much torge did you apply when tightening the bolts?

SuperSteer says:

VERY BAD IDEA! It puts a lot more stress on your end links. We just had an F-53 come into the shop TODAY where an end link SNAPPED in 1/2. There's a reason why anti-sway bars are installed the way they are. It's designed to be "L" shaped. Moving it changes the load placement. Not a good solution. Watch this if you don't believe me. https://youtu.be/kF0w257Uz3k

Kevin Jones says:

Chrome sockets are not designed for impact use and can break or shatter. You should purchase the correct sockets to use with impact tools.
If you remove the bolts from both sides, it takes a most of the pressure off the stabilizer bar and makes it easier to move.

Bill Taylor says:

You might want to consider taking the bolts out on both sides so both ends move freely at the same time as opposed to just removing one bolt and fighting the other side. I'm getting ready to add/upgrade sway bars, sumo springs and a rear track bar. I'll stick with the factory shocks for awhile since it is a 2020 I just purchased. They are easy to swap anyhow.

marc crolius says:

Great Video! Made me comfortable enough to do it. Just did this today. 2006 F53. If you take both bolts out then move the bolts to new positions it works much easier. I tried your way and could not move the passenger side bolt to the new hole. Even with pry bar.
Yes I was working by myself maybe thats the difference. I had the Safe T Plus steering stabilizer installed prior to this.
I would also throw out a warning that it did not look like you were using an impact socket on an impact gun. Those chrome sockets have been know to shatter. From an ex tech.Thanks again!

Pete Donahue says:

I have done this fix on my 2017 Georgetown XL 369 along with timberen rubber springs front and back. BIG difference !!

Chuck White says:

Just want to give you a little hint that you did the sway bar totally wrong the way you did it was almost dangerous if you remove both link bolts at the same time and then Jack the sway bar up there is no pressure on it and then replace both link bolts at the same time

Knablin Adventures says:

I noticed a difference in our 2019 Newmar 3419 when I did it last year. I added the roadmaster rear sway bar because it's an additional sway bar. But I haven't taken it for a test drive yet

Bill & Debbie says:

First off this fix does work for 90 % of the 2019 and below Ford F53 chassis out there, I actually spoke to a Ford tech rep at an RV show about this and he said that the manufacturer of the coach should change it during the build depending on weight, ect… Second it does not void the warranty from Ford doing the changes yourself. In fact their is a YouTube video of a Ford rep saying exactly that ( dated 21 February 2018). And as Izzy pointed out it is a short term cheap suspension fix until a later date when he will replace the sway bar with the one from Roadmaster. Izzy and MJ keep up the good work and thanks for sharing…

Kerwin McNamara says:

It seemed simple enough, be interesting to know if you see/feel the difference.

Daniel Johnson says:

Thanks for the tip

Darryl Bareford says:

I was at the Forest River International Rally and they had a Ford guy there for a seminar. I asked him about doing this and he said it voids the warranty. Don't know if that was just a CYA thing. I see TONS of post of ppl doing this.

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