I mention I broke the clips, but I bought a pack of replacement clips from Advance Auto Parts part # 800-023 from Dorman.
Installing Fuel Pump In 2003 Ford Ranger Edge.
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thanks for the video. i just said every curse word that i knew and stoop up
and took a few deep breaths and walked in to watch youtube. you just save
me a few extra parts.
thanks brotha
Dude thanks Im getting ready to do this job on my edge 2003..my problem is
if I let the truck sit over night It cranks for ever before it starts,,but
If i purge it two or three times it will fire right up,,if I just go into
the store and come out it will fire right up but not much longer. Is there
a one way ball valve or regulator in the tank that might be causing my fuel
to drain back into the tank leaving my line dry the next morning???
I hope just changing the pump assembly will fix the issue????
Thanks again bro!!
Tom :)
I’ve been told that many times, however, easier said than done. I have a
plastic bedliner that covers the outer lip of the bed and a heavy, fully
loaded tool box in the back of mine. No can do, especially when I live
alone and as mentioned before I live in an apartment complex where working
on vehicles is prohibited.
Also, if you know how to use a volt meter probe the harness over the tank
and turn the ignition to the “ON” position to check voltage. I got 11.8V at
the connector over the tank so that means there’s good power. If there’s no
power then you pump may not be the issue. May be a relay or other
electrical issue.
Thanks for making this video. It helped me tons. I just changed out the
pump on a 2004 Ranger. I had no major problems except for one which
resolved itself. The fuel gauge read empty for a long time, maybe thirty
minutes. Then started creeping up to where I thought it should be. I think
it has something to do with the anti slosh circuit in the instrument
cluster.
I sold the Ranger last year. It had the 3.0L (U) non-Flex-Fuel V6.
Did you actually do this yourself? I have what I believe to be a failed
fuel pump in 2003 Mazda B2300 (re-badged Ranger). I’ve been contemplating
cutting a access hatch in the bed of my truck just so I could get to the
pump from above, so I don’t have to lay on my back in gasoline below my
truck on the road. I’d rivit a plate back over the hole when I’m done. The
utility of the bed wouldn’t be compromised, just the looks, and I only haul
stuff barely 2 times a year in the back.
I’ll have to look that Dorman number up for sure.. can’t imagine what they
would look like. From the video it looks like the outer part of your
connectors was completely gone. Curious- the two high pressure connectors
at the fuel filter are the same style- did you get those off OK? Also.. why
did you say that gettign new lines wasn’t an option? PS- got my Ranger
running today after a week of frustration! yeehaw! Amazing what correct
fuel pressure does for ya!
Thx man working on a fuel pump now, hope this helps.
easier way is too, take a T55 bit socket, remove the 6 bed bolts. 7mm
socket and remove the fuel tank filler neck, and unplug the tail light
assembly. just simply slide the bed back about 2 feet and BAM!!! there’s
the fuel pump 🙂 Much Much easier and cleaner.
Did you read about the Dorman clips in one of my previous responses? My
clips were too destroyed to even attempt that, but I wouldn’t have bothered
anyway. Dorman 800-023 will work on the connections at the pump. Also, did
you disconnect the battery for a while to clear any stored codes? What
other maintenance have you done to try and solve the problem? What engine
and how many miles are on it?
@Metakythera Well, those orange and green clips both broke and replacing
the lines was not an option in my situation. Dorman part number 800-023
fuel line connector clips saved my ass.
I know! 🙁 I got the two vapor lines off easily, so naturally assumed that
the high pressure lines worked the same way.. but no!! I tried to remove
those “clips” only to learn that they aren’t really clips, and Ford doesn’t
sell them separate from the fuel lines. It looked like your lines were
destroyed worse than mine, I’m amazed you could still use them. I got lucky
enough to get replacement lines off a parting out Ranger on craigslist for
$20. Otherwise, I guess they are big bucks new.
@Metakythera Just keep that Dorman part number handy for future reference
if you do happen to break the clips again and can’t get replacement lines.
Yes, I did this all by myself. I had nowhere else to do it and unbolting
the bed from the frame was not an option. I like the idea of an access door
through the bed. I would actually make it hinged instead of riveting it.
Once you get the pump out of the tank suspend it under the truck while it’s
still connected. If you hear it momentarily spin up fast then it’s fine. If
it sounds slugglish or it clicks, but doesn’t spin then it’s bad.
My buddy and I actually used “plastic super glue” from O’reilly auto parts
to glue those colored clips back together so we could re-use them cuz we
couldn’t find them for sale. However, my truck still acts like its not
getting gas worn the new $220.00 pump now in it.
By now you’ve figured out what went wrong, like I did. I went through the
EXACT same nightmare, with hoards of parts clerks and mechanics telling me
which special tool would remove the four clips/lines to the pump. There are
no special tools required for the main and return lines… just push the
orange or green quick connect “buttons” with a screwdriver or thumbnail. DO
NOT TRY TO REMOVE THEM or you’ll be buying new fuel lines!! The 2 vapor
lines have retainers that come off with a screwdriver.
what size engine does your 2003 ford ranger edge have?