How to Replace a Control Arm (upper or lower)

How to Replace a Control Arm (upper or lower)

Replacing Upper Control Arm/Ball Joint, Upper Control Arm Replacement, Front Control Arm, A arm control arm, wishbone control arm, how to replace an upper control arm and ball joint, *Watch…

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ChrisFix says:

Make sure you PreLoad the bushings when tightening the control arm! I used
a jack, but definitely watch this if you are replacing a control arm! Control
Arm Bushing Preload, Important Information!

Paul Dimofte says:

are you a mecanic ?

patrick cordery says:

on the passenger side do u have a two pice upper control arm or just the
one pice

marco77acv says:

Hello! Very good work!
Tip

You have to press the bushings with the vehicle on the ground or put the
wheel on that level it works.

Ryan Richards says:

ChrisFix yeah it’s hard to explain. Let me try.
when you tighten down the bolt the bushing will lock in place. The outside
keeps from moving so the rubber inside will flex up and down as the car
hits bumps. If you tighten it down with the wheel hanging, it will lock in
place, then when you lower the car down the rubber bushing inside will be
under a lot more tension. The best way is to get it threaded, let the car
down, then tighten. 

Dennis Canon says:

Great video. I have to do this on my 2002 Jeep Liberty which have similar
Aarm.

William Atkins says:

love the video, very simple and everything is in plan eye sight!!!!!!

Fabrizzio Rivera says:

Man you make it see so easy thank you for the video

dogg bayou says:

good job thanks

Gertie Craign says:

Thank you so much for making such thorough tutorials. The upper and lower
ball joints on my 2000 B3000 must be replaced and I don’t have enough money
to pay a mechanic. My car repairing experience is extremely minimal, but
after watching your videos, I’m pretty confident that I can do it myself.
I’m really grateful for how well you’ve explained each step of the process
and the camera angles you’ve chosen. It’s very well done.
I’m still quite nervous, of course. I certainly don’t relish that one bolt
that invariably will not budge to my feeble upper arm strength and will
cost me an hour of my life and the skin on most of my knuckles. However,
if I’m successful, you will have saved me nearly $400, plus the weeks I’d
be without a vehicle, while waiting to pull that much money together.
You’re providing an excellent service to a lot of people who need it.
Thank you very much.

Ryan Richards says:

You shouldn’t tighten control arm bushings until the vehicle is on the
ground. If you get it tight while the wheel is hanging it’ll put a ton of
strain on the bushing and wear it out very fast

patrick cordery says:

that was grate now can you do my car ?

$zackiscoolify$ says:

When I get up at the video on how to properly clean your car

Will Conner says:

One of the better and more clear sets of How-To videos I have seen so far.
Excellent job Chris.

cahernand1 says:

Love how you gave out every detail, great job! And really clear!

Cha2kDrAwn says:

Why didn’t you grease it, with a grease gun.

JFreakinWet says:

What do you use for all your torque specifications? Just a repair manual?

Michael Aybar says:

There is an easier way for taking out the back bolts. Lossen both of them
then push the control arm up over the shock and the bolts fall right out.
Nice job though

lovetowrenchit says:

Chris, just an update. I have the correct parts, and now the job is
finished:). The other parts were for torsion bar suspension
thanks for your comments

horsemen601 says:

my car cannot handle weight. when i have passengers and try to make a turn
i get a rubbing, wobbling sound (dont know if im using the right word).
any ideas what is the first thing i need to look into. thanks

Michael Z says:

chris why didn’t you just replace the upper ball joint?as opposed to the
whole control arm. For the lower you just did the ball joint.

Justin Bond says:

did you change the shocks?

lopez12345ml says:

Was that upper ball joint pre-greased?

Tesoromio22 says:

Thanks for laying out all the tools needed to get the job done. You do this
in all of your videos I think, and it just makes things easier.

A LeBlanc says:

Another nice job! Thanks, Chris.

EvolutionZG says:

Thanks!!!

lovetowrenchit says:

Chris, I went to my local auto parts store, asked if they would pull an
upper control arm with ball joint, For the 98 Ford Ranger, one for coil
suspension like this truck has, and one for torsion suspension That this
one dies not have. They did, and we could clearly see that the ball joint
shaft on the coil suspension was smaller in diameter, than the one with
torsion suspension
We then pulled the lower ball joints for both suspensions, and the ball
joint For coil suspension was smaller in diameter, than the ball joint For
the torsion suspension.
And different part numbers for coil suspension and torsion suspension
Not sure how to send you a pic of what my upper torsion control arm setting
on top of my coil suspension steering spindle? Then you could see the
difference

zx8401ztv says:

Crisp and easy to understand tutorial (as allways) :-))

Thanks chris :-)), camber adjustments, oow i had forgot about those, i
would be supprised if its much off now, you were very carefull to keep the
cam plates in the same orientation :-))

Now was there any swearing or dropping of tools off camera? ha ha

lovetowrenchit says:

Your welcome. I went to http://www.Rockauto.com and looked up the part numbers.I
then compared their part numbers for 98 Ford range coil spring suspension,
with The part numbers that was ordered. The ordered parts numbers were for
the 98 Ford Ranger with torsion bar suspension. The suspension system on
these 98 rangers changed, but don’t know what month that went to the
torsion bar suspension, maybe someone else can chime in on that question
Thanks!

lovetowrenchit says:

Just a comment, the diameter of the ball joint stud on torsion bar
suspension, is larger than the diameter of the ball join stud on the coil
spring suspension, so make sure the correct upper contro/ball joint is
ordered, or you will be cussing at yourself lol

brandon romero says:

Hey chris …i have a 2004 mazda 6 and when I hit the hood while the car is
on hard enough it Turns off…it also used ti happen when I hit something
hard on the road …im thinking it might be a short but I just dont know
were to start looking ..any suggestions? ????@Chrisfix

ff5gus says:

Nicely done…. I’m done watching kilmer

alexanderjohansen198 says:

Thanks for a good video. I, of course, have the Haynes manual for Honda
CR-V, but allways good to also have a look at a video. What I was wondering
about, is the alignment. If I only replace the upper control arm, as you
showed in the video, and are vere careful when I do so, will it be
necessary with an alignment, or do you think it will be fine without?
Hoping to not use money on the alignment, that usally in Norway cast
between 150 and 200 dollars (US). 

lovetowrenchit says:

The mystery begins..we will know shortly what is going on..then I will post
back

lovetowrenchit says:

I’ll get back to us on that
O’Reilly auto parts

lovetowrenchit says:

The parts were not ordered through Rockauto, but off eBay, they emailed us
and said “exact fit” but never asked about the suspension system, what type
the truck had….so be careful when ordering parts

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