In this video, Matt shows how he fabricated floor pans for his Model A using some sheet metal and a handful of Eastwood tools, while offering a couple helpful tips to keep that metal moving where you want it to!
LINK TO BUY ENGLISH WHEEL: https://www.eastwood.com/benchtop-english-wheel.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=annotation&utm_campaign=2016-06-10&utm_content=english%20wheel
LINK TO BUY MOTORIZED BEAD ROLLER: https://www.eastwood.com/motorized-bead-roller-and-stand.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=annotation&utm_campaign=2016-06-10&utm_content=motorized%20bead%20roller
LINK TO BUY BEAD FORMING DIES: http://www.eastwood.com/bead-roller-forming-dies.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=annotation&utm_content=bead%20roller%20forming%20dies&utm_campaign=2016-06-10
LINK TO BUY VERSA-BEND SHEET METAL BRAKE: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-versa-bend-sheet-metal-brake.html?utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=annotation&utm_content=versa%20bend%20brake&utm_campaign=2016-06-10
Matt tackled the floor pan project on his Model A like he does all his work, aiming to add a custom personal touch he can call his own while maintaining a somewhat OE appearance that’ll keep people guessing ‘why do I like this so much?!’
For a more in depth breakdown on how to pre stretch your panel, read the full blog article here: http://www.eastwood.com/blog/eastwood-chatter/bead-roller-trick/
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Eastwood has everything you need to do the job right when you’re restoring a car, truck or motorcycle – from welders to paint and everything in between.
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Nice work and to hell with safety!
patience is what it takes
Hold Fast bro…
Metal shop heaven
I have always been told that you need to pre-stress the panel in the OPPOSITE direction of your intended bead. So if you want the bead humping up, the pre-stress needs to be done downward. Thus you need to draw the same pattern on both sides of the metal and flip it over to pre-stress. Also, just a nit-pick, but if you wanted the access panel to be a little more professional, drill out the lower screw holes and use a rivnut tool. Screws thru sheet metal can strip out over time, but a quality rivnut will hold for a long time.
Yeahhhh yeah yeah yeahhhh, Yeahhhh yeah yeah yeahhhh, Yeahhhh yeah yeah yeahhhh
Matt could you take that warped panel and use the blandishing hammer to lightly coax that warp out of the panel? Just to relax the warped parts?
I wish I had this for a job or had the time to rebuild the 1917 I had but sold. In my job I'm always being asked to " make this fit ". I find it's easier to bend 1 side, set it in place mark the other end, then bend. Great work on the car.
Great Video , I am Looking for someone in southern Ore to do the same on my 30 ford 5 window You know anyone ? Thanks
Simply great. Damn, what a decent workshop. Praise and recognition.
That master cylinder access panel is too small to get an arm through lol.
brilliant….good info, thanks
He's really good at making straight lines with a sharpie lol
I cant afford the tools let alone have them build one for me !
Shout out to Gene Winfield T-shirts!!
Or, you could also heat the panel, but, nobody does that anymore these days. Grandpa's brother, used to roll them flat as a dime as you fellows across the pond say it.
Can I also use a manual bead roller to make the be ads if I don't have a motorized one?
I see 2 pedals, disappointed
This is some great metal work. I have one question. With so many seams what is stopping moisture from getting in? Are you going to sure seam sealer on all the joints?
less of a tech question, and more of a build question: what pedal assembly are you using in this build?
OK. I regain faith. Nice solution to a small problem.
First rate metal fabrication with attention to the smallest of details.
Nice work Matt…. did I see correctly that you pre stretched the metal in the opposite direction of the bead ? so stretch up, bead down ?
how thick is the metal you are working with ?