Great instructional. You helped me get this done correctly and quickly –
Thanks. The worst part for me was removing the bolts that hold the brake
housing; they were Red Loctited in. I ended up using the floor jack to
drive my 1/2″ breaker – probably not a best practice, but it broke them
loose.
seems that doing it this way saves you some time and money not letting it
hang and have the axel end removed and having to compress the spring.
wonder if this same trick would work for a 97 sable
This is the best video for changing the wheel bearings on a 2000 Taurus or
similar year. Don’t even try to do this without renting (for free from
Autozone) a 30mm axle nut socket and a Front Hub Puller for Front wheel
drive cars. Work the axle nut free while the wheel is still on the ground.
Spray some lube on the threads and clean the threads with a wire brush.
It’s easiest to use air driven impact driver but it can be done with a
breaker bar. it will be tough at first. The axle nut is on there with 190
ft. pounds of torque. The key is to put the hub puller on and push the axle
back far enough to get a socket and extension on the top bolt from behind.
As shown, you might have to jack up the A-arm to get an angle in. Once you
have the socket and extension on the bolt, loosen it a little and loosen
the other two bolts a little also. A 15mm ratcheting box wrench is the
perfect tool for this. Evenly back out all the bolts until the hub is free.
Wire brush all the mating surfaces, apply a very thin layer of bearing
grease to the mating surfaces, Blue locktite the threads of the hub bolts.
All done in about an hour for each side. A dealer would charge about $700
parts and labor for this. I just did this job this past Sunday morning.
Also note that Ford originally used Yellow and blue thread locker on all
these bolts. I use Blue. Don’t use red unless you have no choice. it is
very difficult to get out a bolt that has red threadlocker (LocTite) on it.
On new models of Taurus there isn’t as much room to get a socket on the top
bolt. I found that grinding off a 1/4 from the length of the 15mm socket
lets you get it on the bolt head. Also note that original axle nuts were
29mm not 30mm. Most new replacement nuts are 30mm on the front wheels. Not
all parts dealers supply new nuts.
Good video, but like other posts state, the axel nut is 29mm, had a hard
time finding a socket. The top bolt was impossible to get to. You need to
remove the strut, and pull the drive shaft almost all the way out. Then the
bolt is easy to get to. BUT to get the strut out requires a strut
compressor to pull the spring tight enough so you can get it out, and to
get the spring compressor on will require to lower the strut first, then
put it back up. It turned out to be quite a project. 2001 SE OHV
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Great instructional. You helped me get this done correctly and quickly –
Thanks. The worst part for me was removing the bolts that hold the brake
housing; they were Red Loctited in. I ended up using the floor jack to
drive my 1/2″ breaker – probably not a best practice, but it broke them
loose.
seems that doing it this way saves you some time and money not letting it
hang and have the axel end removed and having to compress the spring.
wonder if this same trick would work for a 97 sable
This is the best video for changing the wheel bearings on a 2000 Taurus or
similar year. Don’t even try to do this without renting (for free from
Autozone) a 30mm axle nut socket and a Front Hub Puller for Front wheel
drive cars. Work the axle nut free while the wheel is still on the ground.
Spray some lube on the threads and clean the threads with a wire brush.
It’s easiest to use air driven impact driver but it can be done with a
breaker bar. it will be tough at first. The axle nut is on there with 190
ft. pounds of torque. The key is to put the hub puller on and push the axle
back far enough to get a socket and extension on the top bolt from behind.
As shown, you might have to jack up the A-arm to get an angle in. Once you
have the socket and extension on the bolt, loosen it a little and loosen
the other two bolts a little also. A 15mm ratcheting box wrench is the
perfect tool for this. Evenly back out all the bolts until the hub is free.
Wire brush all the mating surfaces, apply a very thin layer of bearing
grease to the mating surfaces, Blue locktite the threads of the hub bolts.
All done in about an hour for each side. A dealer would charge about $700
parts and labor for this. I just did this job this past Sunday morning.
Also note that Ford originally used Yellow and blue thread locker on all
these bolts. I use Blue. Don’t use red unless you have no choice. it is
very difficult to get out a bolt that has red threadlocker (LocTite) on it.
You have given me the confidence to go out and change my own. Thanks so
much.
On new models of Taurus there isn’t as much room to get a socket on the top
bolt. I found that grinding off a 1/4 from the length of the 15mm socket
lets you get it on the bolt head. Also note that original axle nuts were
29mm not 30mm. Most new replacement nuts are 30mm on the front wheels. Not
all parts dealers supply new nuts.
You just saved me hundreds of bucks.
Good video, but like other posts state, the axel nut is 29mm, had a hard
time finding a socket. The top bolt was impossible to get to. You need to
remove the strut, and pull the drive shaft almost all the way out. Then the
bolt is easy to get to. BUT to get the strut out requires a strut
compressor to pull the spring tight enough so you can get it out, and to
get the spring compressor on will require to lower the strut first, then
put it back up. It turned out to be quite a project. 2001 SE OHV
Thanx finally the right way to do it