Ford Power Steering Teflon Seal Install No Special Tools

Ford Power Steering Teflon Seal Install No Special Tools

In this video I show you how to size and install the Teflon seal found on almost all Ford power steering lines especially at the power steering pump itself.

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PureDWhiteCloud says:

Well I did one today and I just got a 3/8 socket 3/8 drive, pushed the seal on the work end and slid it to the drive end. let it sit a few seconds and pushed it off and it pittered it right on. I did have to thread it a sming but went right on.

mumbles552 says:

The new pump for my '96 F-150 came with this seal and an O ring which is a bit smaller in diameter than the Teflon seal. Where does the O ring go?

lburkee says:

I use a deep well socket and run hot water on the seal to warm it up some and slide on the socket and slide off the socket onto the hose fitting

Jiwbink w says:

GREAT TIP,THX FOR POSTING!

Dean Dee says:

where do you get the teflon seals?

St Michael says:

Great vid…I wrap threads with electricians tape to help let it slide over threads…

Raul Torres says:

Thanks a lot!!!

roltyd22 says:

Is there an oring inside the high pressure port on the pump?

Jeremy Allen says:

What is the part number for the Teflon seals? I need one for the return line that goes to the rack and pinion on a 2005 Taurus.

Sam Orth says:

Okay but what if it keeps leaking after this

Jeff Grube says:

Thank you for the video. I also used the 3/8 inch extension like Gary below – but placed the seal and extension in hot water – seal stretched a bit easier on the extension to fit over the threads.

Gabriele Pinna says:

How tight should one tighten the seal ? On late model fords

Ed Toro says:

I believe he just heated up with hot water and put it on

Danny Palmer says:

Too much coffee? Lol

Sid Rodriguez says:

What about torque specs? Or how much of a turn do we tighten after hand tightened?

ed64818 says:

this is similar for the ford rangers powers steering pump connector don't buy the entire hose get this seal

Carlos Carnero says:

I have a 1990 ford f150 with rear antilock sign on I replaced the sensor on rear axle but it antilock sign is still on, I was wondering if I should replace abs module and what's the order of bleeding the brakes is it from rear left and work my way around to the drivers front and also would I bleed the module in that procedure I appreciate any help you can send my way thank you

rwehuman says:

Thanks for the video

Ronaldo Bastos says:

For a Taurus LX 1997 V6 Duratec engine.

Ronaldo Bastos says:

Who sell this part? I'm looking for this teflon for more than a month!

Thom Wood says:

ok. So here is my dilemma. I have a 2000 GT with Hydro-boost, of course. You probably already know where I am heading with this but wait, there is a twist. I put in a new steering rack, all Teflon seals have been replaced all the way up to the hydroboost manifold, there is a brand new steering pump as well and there are no fluid leaks anywhere what so sever. I have done the ridiculous 90 sets of turning the wheel from lock to lock along with pumping the brakes in between each set with the car off and front end raised off the ground, my forearms are huge now.!!!! It drank only a little bit of fluid and not much more. I tried running the car out of frustration and that did not help either. I am still getting a lot of whirring from the steering pump and the brakes still go to the floor while whining. I am so frustrated with this and have no other clue as to what it could be, maybe a bad hydroboost pump? any suggestions as to how to fix this crazy problem? Could there be an air leak somewhere that won't show signs of fluid leakage? I also forgot to mention I hear a gurgle coming from the steering rack when I turn left all the way to the lock while the car is ignition off. Driving me nuts here, any suggestions?

Corinna says:

I know this will sound stupid, but why not use a rubber o ring or a flat rubber ring like a plumbers seal?

Jimmy Albaron says:

I will ask my GF to do it for me…she is good when comes to condoms

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