Watch a full tutorial as a 2010 Ford Escape (non factory amplified) will have an aftermarket Kicker amplifier and 12″ Kicker subwoofer installed. Note that this Escape is similar to other platforms such as the Mazda Tribute.
This video applies to Ford / Mazda models for years 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, and 2012. This video includes step-by-step on the installation process of the amplifier and subwoofer.
If you have any questions, leave a comment below! Be sure to like and subscribe!
Parts Used:
*Kicker 43CXA300.1 Amplifier
*Kicker Comp 12″ 300w Subwoofer + Box + Grille
*Stinger SS1200XS 4GA Copper 1200W Complete Wiring Kit
*Pac SNI-35 Line Out Converter
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I got a question for you
I did everything you did my shit only works on one RCA!!!!
How did you hide the Line output converter?
Ground is not there for 2012 Ford Escape,
Does anyone know the wiring diagram
I’ve already installed everything except the preamp , it’s supposed to arrive today , so I figured I’d be ready when it gets here , I didn’t think to use the side pocket I keep my emergency fishing lures in for my amp , but certain it’s to small for my amp , and I didn’t want it exposed at all , so I used the cargo storage tub under the carpet to mount my amp, however it is sealed and had concerns of over heating, I cut out a small circle on the driver’s side edge and mounted a 80mm 12v fan out of a computer , it sits perfectly and looks super clean in the corner, there is also a decent air channel that runs the edge of the tub to draw air from , it blows directly onto the amp , there is a slight drop off where the amp is mounted , which I appreciate, I utilized the drop off to put a small piece of foam under both low side screws for a nice air gap under the amp while leveling it in the process, I will drill a couple 3 inch holes in the lid of the cargo box and put a piece of screen over the holes and lay my carpet back down , it should exhaust threw the carpet , amp should stay moderately cool , Just a idea for anyone who may not want amp exposed , also if you like to show your stuff off , the lid could easily be exchange for a piece of plexiglass , and u can either cut out the carpet to expose the plexiglass or remove the carpet so you can cover it when needed ,
Cool thanks..you're video was a lot of help for sure…
Hey guys, we followed the video directions and did not have any success… Hoping you can help. We hooked up the sub & amp box to a different vehicle and it worked just fine. We are having two problems 1) The amp has power all the time, not just when the key is turned to the aux or engine start position. 2) The sub is not receiving a signal from the head unit (the music is cranked and the bass level is set to max) so when everything is connected the subwoofer does not engage.
I’m 99% sure the problem is with the wire taps we installed (head unit to rca adapter) but wondering if you have any suggestions??
Thank you in advance!!!!!
Hello buddy can you tell me how did you attach the line converter ?
This is a great video with detailed instructions!
Hey my king when you put in your sounds I want to keep My factory radio where did you find your wire colored code for wires Harness to the back of the radio to add a.m. with an outline converter please called me or text me link at 5172580318 thanks my king for any information
My god! Isn’t car plastic just the worst!?
About to do this, could I use the line out converter on the rear speaker instead of the head unit harness?
Im not gettin power to amp amp is good wat could be the issue
Whats the link to order the kit
i know i commented 10 months ago but i have been slack getting my components together, lol i am finally installing now, just double checking with you that is the climate control fuse you are tapping into with the add a circuit
What size gauge should i get for the t taps all i can find are 12 to 14 gauge is this correct
Can you send me the color code for the factory wiring harness?
Hi, nicely done. Any chance you have video of how you mounted the amp? Or perhaps a written description as a reply?
mannn you just made my day with this video, i have a 2010 ford escape and can't get any help putting my system in and i never installed a car stereo before and i am scared of buring down my escape lol, thank you so much for this 1000 times .
Nice one man!!!
I completely agree with Leonel Ramirez. This helped a lot.
One question thought, is the "Pac SNI-35 Line Out Converter" mandatory? What does it do?
I have already set my amplifier and sub-woofer like you explained except in my case it is a 1000W system, but where I live you won't find a line out converter.
Thank you and anyone out there for an explanation in advance.
Is the bass in the system good? I’d like to feel it in the seat when it hits
Very cool. CLEAN. I'm really picky about cosmetics as I feel most are. (or should be, but to each their own) I'm kind of curious on that particular set up's improvement ? I like the fact that doesen't eat up a ton of cargo room (translating "usually" into eating less of one's finances) I was thinking of Alpine type "S" in the 4 factory door speaker locations. Maintaining the factory head unit (I know I could deal w/getting around Sync, the steering wheel etc. But it's a daily driver, I don't want a "Here I am" or " You"ll hear me 2 mins. Before I get there" system) A decent to vast improvement of the factory 4 speaker system is deffinately in order ! I'm open to suggestions & honestly somewhat torn between Polk D.b. or the Alpines ? Another thought other than what you did possibly was trying 1 of the many junk yards in my area/or Ebay; Acquiring the optional factory sub & mainly mounting pannell & possibly do some mild sound proofing/deadening & similar to this set up, install a single 8 inch sub w/appropriate power.(This is assuming I can "switch" the optional panel containing the fact. Sub. & replace with a budget friendly alternative into my Mariner which does NOT have it. I'll look into that shortly but don't expect that to be much more difficult than tracking down the proper pieces and mouldings to do so) I know especially in audio; You get what you pay for ! There's always sales, open boxes, etc. That when not needed asap, I've done pretty well with in the past. I think anything more than a single 8-10 will probably require more space than I'm willing to part with. Dual 12's are out, just trying to keep myself from from stripping the car down & refinancing my home, in an attempt to make rain drop's bounce, but I'd also like to maintain my sanity & add some much needed "umph" as my factory components are rather old & tired, as well as, is basic as was possible over a decade ago! Does a single 8 or 10 sub. Add all that much ? I'm not in the financial bracket for the $600 stealth box. & with the factory 6×8's, worth changing front & rear to 6.5's ? Go 5.25 ? A combo ? I'm open to any experienced opinions and or knowledge pertaining to upgrading the overall sound quality of the Escape/Mariner/Tribute that yourself or anyone else wishes to share ! Great video & T.y. beforehand for any & all thoughts!
It amazes me when people want a system installed but there battery is trash all that corrosion on both terminals was the first thing I noticed
First Person
Hi can u put a video on a toyota ee101 how to replace its stereo plz a new video