Parts Used: Front Right Passenger-Side Control Arm & Ball Joint With Torsion Bar Suspension (Adjustable): …
Parts Used: Front Right Passenger-Side Control Arm & Ball Joint With Torsion Bar Suspension (Adjustable): …
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Do you have videos on the whole suspension for a 1997 explorer. I don’t
know what’s wrong but I’m betting I need everything. I feel like a weeble
wobble going down the road. There’s a clicking noise when I back up and
three of my tires have little creases in them.
Very good video and I can translate it to gustariase Castilian since I am
from Chile and I really serve your videos
So is it just easier if your ball joints broken, just to change out the
whole control arm?
Excellent video, I recently bought a nice suspension kit on Ebay, that
comes up with all the upper and lower joint, including the control arms,
but my mechanic did not realize this was a 2 piece control arm, so he
installed the left side instead, now with this video it was easy to explain
his mistake, thanks man, this is really helpfull, hope to see a few more on
Ford Explorer .
@webguy79 We do not have a video on doing that, but it is possible, all you
need to do is purchase the one piece control arm, remove the two piece
completely and install the one piece in it’s place, the only downfall of
doing this, is that the Caster angle on the alignment will no longer be
adjustable.
thanks for your video.. if is not to much to ask, can you give me the part
number for the the control arm and the lower ball joint for both sides… i
went to the web site but i got a little confuse and i dont want to mess up.
thanks in advance for your time.
Hola, Estoy utilizando el traductor de google así que pido disculpas si
esto suena divertido. En la Ford Explorer, la causa más común de una
creciente inactividad es una fuga de vacío. Yo recomiendo mirar todas sus
mangueras de vacío para asegurarse de que no tiene fugas de vacío.
is that what causes the rattling noise over big bumps? thx
Thank you I saw the vid and will probably be purchasing the needed parts
soon, thank you for your much needed help.
M porter- thats probably just your rear diff. If it is a 4×4 it probably
has a limited slip diff. Mine does
The noise is only present on cold startups/drives. After I drive around
town for a bit, I hit the same bumps and no noise whatsoever. Do bushing
warm up causing them to become more quiet? I’ll try and get a video up
later today/this week. Thanks !
it sounds like your steering stops might just need to be greased. on the
bottom of the steering knuckle, you have a “bump” that hits the control arm
when the weel is fully turned, if that bump has no grease on it, it can
cause the symptoms you describe. You could still have additional front end
problems, but what you describe sounds like the steering stops.
perdon, es un ford explorer 4×4 xlt del 97.
Any suspension part change should always have alignment checked to ensure
proper tire wear.
@APDTY i have the same problem i called the dealer they told me my 1996
explorer went from a two piece originally into a one piece wth right
Thanks a lot for the upload, saved me a lot of money =o
A question, you said that you need to do an Alignment after doing this. My
mechanic is going to change the upper and lower ball joints on my Explorer,
and since the upper is all on piece also he will have to change the control
arm. But he says it isn’t needed to align it if you put everything back
together the way it was. Is he wrong? Should this scare me away from using
him? He is willing to do the entire job for $100(plus parts) in his private
shop behind his house. Everyone else wants 1k!
@webguy79 I suppose if you were to install adjustable upper control arm
bolts, that would still allow the caster and camber to be adjustable.
I just finished replacing mine and thanks to your (and other vids) I was
well prepared and the job went perfectly smooth. It took me an hour and 15
minutes from start to finish (no tools out to tools all put away and not
hurrying). Thanks a ton!
Hi great video. I want to know how I would change a 2-piece upper Control
Arm to a one piece. Can you have a video on this? Thank you.
@nooz98 Thanks for the Comment,, Feel free to give us a call for some
prices and part numbers, there are a few different variables on your
vehicle, so the easiest way to ensure we get you the correct info is to
give us a call at 1-866-770-2771. Thanks
I’d be willing to give it a shot, no guarantee’s on being able to
positively identify the noise though.
do they sell the parts separately? the inner part & the outer part!!!!!?
@tony6314 The inner part is going to be tough to find because it is not
really a wear item. The Outer half of the two piece control arm is the part
that contains the ball-joint.
Yes it will, that is actually what the sway-bar is designed for, is to
minimize body roll, if the links are destroyed, then it won’t do its job
and will allow for excessive body roll when turning.
Ball joints will cause more of a “Clunking” rather than a “Rattle”. A
Rattle sound over bumps is often caused by the sway-bar end link bushing
being bad. We actually have a video of replacing those on this same exact
truck. Check that out and you can see the part I am talking about
one more question will fixing the end link bushing help with body roll ?
thanks again.
Hey, if I post a video of a noise on my explorer, think you could diagnose
it? I’m pretty sure it’s the bushings up front somewhere.
My ’97 Explorer makes a loud clunking noise (and sort of jerks a bit) when
making slow, sharp turns while breaking. It only does it after I have been
driving for 30 minutes or so (when it’s warmed up, I guess). Could my
problem be the control arms??
Even if I a buy a Camber/Caster Adjust Kit
hola,felicidades por la ayuda que nos prestas a los fanaticos de “yo lo
hago”, jeje. tengo un ford explorer que tienens muchas cositas que
arreglar, una de ellas es que, en relenti es un poco inestable, sube y baja
levemente el relenti, me podrias ayudar a descubrir que es? gracias