How to Replace Dodge Ram License Plate Lights with LED Upgrades

How to Replace Dodge Ram License Plate Lights with LED Upgrades

How to replace and upgrade your Dodge Ram’s license plate lights to LED. The lights I’ll be using in this video are from Headlight Revolution. Headlight Revolution has also been kind enough to supply me with a coupon code for my viewers. The coupon code is 4DIYERS, all in capital, this is for free UPS ground shipping on any US order. Here I’m working with a 2006 Dodge Ram, this applies to the third generation Dodge Ram models and I believe fourth generation as well. #dodgeram #headlightrevolution #morimoto @HeadlightRevolution

Dodge Ram LED License Plate Lights: https://www.headlightrevolution.com/Dodge-Ram-03-18-XB-LED-License-Plate-Lights?quantity=1

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-new replacement lights
-small standard screwdriver
-side or bullnose cutters
-cable ties
-clean rag
-contact cleaner

Chapters:
00:00 Intro
00:59 Removal Process
02:47 Cleaning the Metal Clips
03:03 Cleaning the Electrical Connectors
04:12 New Upgraded LED Assemblies
04:42 New Light Assembly
06:11 Installation
07:58 Before and After

Procedure:
To remove the assembly, there is a large metal locking clip that holds it in place. These may be stuck and be careful when sticking your head under the bumper. There will most likely be road debris around the light so you want to avoid any debris getting in your eyes.

Check the condition of your clip, if they’re too far deteriorated or missing, you can purchase new replacements. For mine, I’ll clean them up with a wire wheel and give them a coat of paint.

Grab onto the bulb connector and twist counterclockwise, then pull out.

Clean the connector of any debris, this will prevent any dirt from falling into the connection.

The connector will have a red tab, mine was already in the disconnected position. Make sure it’s in the disconnect position, depress the tab on the connector and pull it straight off.

The metal clips were cleaning up with a wire wheel on a drill press. They get a coat of paint just to protect the surface.

In order to remove the bulbs, simply pull straight out. The bulb connectors are replaceable, so if yours are damaged or badly corroded, I would recommend getting replacements. Also ensure the gasket around the light assembly mating surface is present and in good condition.

Next is cleaning the electrical connectors. Lay a rag down to catch any spray from the cleaner just to protect the plastic. Inside the bulb connection and both sides of the electrical connection get sprayed.

These are brand new assemblies with built-in LED lights, so you don’t have to worry about bulb replacements. They feature a gloss black exterior finish. These will be substantially brighter than compared to the factory incandescent bulbs, will have a longer life, emit a white light that provides an extremely clean look, and are a plug and play setup.

Plugin the resistor. Considering this is at the back of the truck and will be exposed to quite a bit of road debris, I’m going with an extra step applying some split loop casing to the wiring as protection.

Cut it to length using a razor knife. Install it on the wiring. And then apply electrical tape to close it up.

For plugging into the bulb connector, make sure the terminals are in good condition. Using a small flat screwdriver, you can bend these in slide if there are any connection issues. The new lights come with the same spade style terminal which the factory bulbs use. This plugs right into the factory connections, there are no wiring modifications needed.

Tuck the wiring from the light inside the assembly, you’ll have to coil it up inside. Then twist the connector clockwise until it stops.

Plug in the connector, you’ll know it’s fully pushed in when you can push in the red locking tab. Feed the wiring in behind, along with the resistor.

Push the light in from the outside and install the retaining clip. It’ll be in it’s proper location when it’s fully pushed against the assembly.

As for the resistor, don’t leave this hanging. Using cable ties, I only used two, one for the wire and one for the resistor. This will get attached to the factory wiring.

Then cut off the access tail from the cable tie.

Install the other light in the same way.

Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don’t forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!

© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

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Comments

J-DUB says:

glad i watched this i was doing it all wrong thanks for making it simple

DavidS says:

Do you know where I can get the replacement metal clips?

Jose Meraz says:

Where do you get the retaining clip?

Don Condrey says:

Very helpful. Thank you

Bill Collier says:

What is the disconnected position for the locking tabs?

hardracer says:

Nice video….I wish the inside of my bumper was that clean…lol….good job!

Nexus of ice says:

Got a set of these. These work ok. A pain in the butt to get the clips back on but aside from that they work as advertised to it doesn't kick back a light out code.

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