Thanks for taking the time to post this. It must have taken you another
additional few hours to put this together so nicely. What was Dodge
thinking, what a major pain to do, and so much crap to remove, PS pump,
really… sigh. Thank you for the heads up. Despite what the manual says,
what is the recommended interval mileage wise(km/miles) you’d change them
at? I’ve seen it vary from 60k to 160km’s… Mine is at 90 at the moment,
and still minty, I’d like to keep it so!
I just want to give you a big thanks. Very clear cut straight to the point
how to video. I’m a DIY guy. This will go a long way in replacing my wifes
original 140k mile timing belt. I honestly worry about that belt every time
we start the car. Thanks.
Ran over a snow drift and my car died on me. When I tried to start the car
can hear no compression. Snow got up behind the engine and yanked on my
wire harness ripping the crankshaft position sensor wire out. So I redid my
wire harness and repaired that. Car still wouldn’t start but was getting
fuel and spark.
I just pulled the car apart. After pulling the harmonic balancer I can see
the timing has jumped about 90* and the spring behind the tensioner which
goes into the bracket bolted to the engine popped out of the groove.
Going to try to redo the timing. Hoping the valves are not trashed.
There was no snow or ice inside the timing belt cover. Could the CPS wiring
getting yanked while the car was running cause the timing to slip?
Replaced the water pump, belt and tensioner a year ago.
*edit*
Redid timing and still nothing. Can tell when turning the crankshaft that
there is no compression because there is almost no resistance. Pulled valve
cover off and watched the rocker arms as I turned the crank by hand. All
the valves move with the rockers arms from what I can see (SOHC). I don’t
want to do a valve job or head replacement. It’s 15*f out and I don’t have
a garage.
Yes, pulled spark plug and made sure it was TDC as you did.
*edit*
Pulled the head off… looks like all of the valved kissed the pistons.
Going to salvage yard for a “new” head and going to just do a swap. Only
took about 90 minutes to take it apart. It’ll cost about that for the head.
Ok.. it was the timing belt that was broken. I was told that when it does
that I’m at risk of having my valves bent. Is that possible? I also
replaced everything and now it only makes a knocking noise when I
accelerate. I check the timing belt and all is good. Any clues?
Thanks for the tips. They helped us a lot on the timing belt/water pump
replacement in our ’04 Neon SOHC w/ P.S. and A/C. My twin brother and I
have worked on cars all our lives as hobbyists and professionals. We both
found your video very helpful, especially with the Auto Zone tool part no.
27139 and the T55 torx bolt. The job took us about 9.0 man-hours. Thanks
again.
i have a 1st gen neon, but my bolt for crankshaft pulley is a
M12x1.75x150mm long?
and no body has the right installer for this any suggestions because i
really need car and there isnt shops around me for miles???
Used this to help change my timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. Thanks!
Should note that on my 05 the sleeve on the mechanical tensioner was not
given on the replacement part from AutoZone so we had to re-use the old one
and make it work. Did this so it came together easier later.
A little after 5 minutes into the video on the lower torque strut, you
mentioned having a belt around the mount. Could you explain where exactly
you had the cable?
When the timing belt is off, and rotating the crank on an interference
engine with a wrench, it advisable to put the crank marks at 9 or 3 0’clock
position where the pistons are all halfway in the bores. If the crank is at
12 or 6 o’clock positions and the crank is rotated there is a chance of
contacting the piston tops and bending the valves. FYI
Richpin. Thank you so much for the video! You could have saved me hundreds.
I never would have had the gumption to change my water pump without your
video and the one from autotech. I watched it backwards and forwards so
much that I started thinking in that Boston, is it?accent. Can’t thank you
enough. When I got to my water pump I decided it wasn’t leaking (it had
been changed twice by the same mechanic the last just about 4k ago) so I
changed the thermostat housing instead HA! But I wouldn’t change the
experience being that I was on vacation and want under pressure to get out
done. Thanks!
Thank’s for your answer Rich! Again, awesome video. So detailed. Still a
little apprehensive about doing the job, but with your awesome instruction,
I think I can get it right with the timing belt install, thank’s to your
little trick of backing the tension pulley off a few teeth. When tension is
put on, and the belt moves, the pulley lines up properly. Logical, but not
obvious. Great tip.
I was going up hill and by the time I reached the top the engine just shut
off. All power was on. As soon as I got down hill I tried turning it back
on and it didn’t. Can this be an issue with the timing belt breaking?
Before this had happened there where times when I felt the car was
struggling for power. Any ideas?
Richpin. Thank you so much for the video! You could have saved me hundreds.
I never would have had the gumption to change my water pump without your
video and the one from autotech. I watched it backwards and forwards so
much that I started thinking in that Boston, is it?accent. Can’t thank you
enough. When I got to my water pump I decided it wasn’t leaking (it had
been changed twice by the same mechanic the last just about 4k ago) so I
changed the thermostat housing instead HA! But I wouldn’t change the
experience being that I was on vacation and want under pressure to get out
done. Thanks!
thank you sir…you provided some great insight. why did you perfer to
rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 3 tooths and then forward to half a
tooth before mark. The manual and some other videos showed only rotating
back the half-tooth..I chose your method and worked just fine. Thanks again.
Hello there. I need to remove the engine mount plate to be able to replace
the serpentine belt tensioner pulley. Do I have to follow all the steps up
to 9:53 in the video? Do I really need to remove the cranskhaft pulley and
the alternator belt?
Hey Rich, when you removed that bottom mount and said the engine tends to
want to jump so you looped a cable around it, did you just loop it around
the back of the engine and then around the front end? Also when your in
there is there enough room to fit an impact in to remove the bolt holding
the camshaft pulley on? Or would it be best to leave the timing belt on and
use a socket and ratchet? I have to remove it to replace the water pump on
mine! Real helpful video though!
my timing belt also broke while the engine was running and i had it fixed
but it wont idle it starts up and then dies out do you think the pistons
could have hit the valves or the timing is off?
Excellent thing to know. I have the part (whole kit with timing belt and
pump, seals etc.) but I wanted some clarification on one thing you said in
your AWESOME video. You say that you used a cable to secure the engine
before taking out the T55 bolt for the engine mount so that the bolt is
easier to get out and the engine won’t shift. Where did you hook the cable
to and from? (ie: location) and do I need a cable, or can I use a cargo
strap elsewhere on the engine. Seen that before too. Thank’s!
No. Reversing the arms won’t do it. I took a cheap punch from Harbor
Freight and cut some off the end (2″ maybe) and used it instead of the bar
they have in the kit. Handle side goes into the crank and the punch side
slides right into the bolt. It bent it slightly, but it works.
wow the spacer thingie.. i did the same thing.. i was going crazy.. i
couldnt get the pully off. damn i thought i had the wrong kit.. smh..now i
feel better..
dead on, best vid i watched on this and the tip on damper puller was great
with out it i probley whoud have tour it up. also nice that you stated
sizes saved me a lot of time and sweet i did this outside on a 100*+ day
){kind=link}
How much time does this take for your average mechanic?
Yes it was , do you think it bent a valve?
Thanks for taking the time to post this. It must have taken you another
additional few hours to put this together so nicely. What was Dodge
thinking, what a major pain to do, and so much crap to remove, PS pump,
really… sigh. Thank you for the heads up. Despite what the manual says,
what is the recommended interval mileage wise(km/miles) you’d change them
at? I’ve seen it vary from 60k to 160km’s… Mine is at 90 at the moment,
and still minty, I’d like to keep it so!
Jonathan
I love the help. Thank you sir.
I just want to give you a big thanks. Very clear cut straight to the point
how to video. I’m a DIY guy. This will go a long way in replacing my wifes
original 140k mile timing belt. I honestly worry about that belt every time
we start the car. Thanks.
Ran over a snow drift and my car died on me. When I tried to start the car
can hear no compression. Snow got up behind the engine and yanked on my
wire harness ripping the crankshaft position sensor wire out. So I redid my
wire harness and repaired that. Car still wouldn’t start but was getting
fuel and spark.
I just pulled the car apart. After pulling the harmonic balancer I can see
the timing has jumped about 90* and the spring behind the tensioner which
goes into the bracket bolted to the engine popped out of the groove.
Going to try to redo the timing. Hoping the valves are not trashed.
There was no snow or ice inside the timing belt cover. Could the CPS wiring
getting yanked while the car was running cause the timing to slip?
Replaced the water pump, belt and tensioner a year ago.
*edit*
Redid timing and still nothing. Can tell when turning the crankshaft that
there is no compression because there is almost no resistance. Pulled valve
cover off and watched the rocker arms as I turned the crank by hand. All
the valves move with the rockers arms from what I can see (SOHC). I don’t
want to do a valve job or head replacement. It’s 15*f out and I don’t have
a garage.
Yes, pulled spark plug and made sure it was TDC as you did.
*edit*
Pulled the head off… looks like all of the valved kissed the pistons.
Going to salvage yard for a “new” head and going to just do a swap. Only
took about 90 minutes to take it apart. It’ll cost about that for the head.
Ok.. it was the timing belt that was broken. I was told that when it does
that I’m at risk of having my valves bent. Is that possible? I also
replaced everything and now it only makes a knocking noise when I
accelerate. I check the timing belt and all is good. Any clues?
Thanks for the tips. They helped us a lot on the timing belt/water pump
replacement in our ’04 Neon SOHC w/ P.S. and A/C. My twin brother and I
have worked on cars all our lives as hobbyists and professionals. We both
found your video very helpful, especially with the Auto Zone tool part no.
27139 and the T55 torx bolt. The job took us about 9.0 man-hours. Thanks
again.
i have a 1st gen neon, but my bolt for crankshaft pulley is a
M12x1.75x150mm long?
and no body has the right installer for this any suggestions because i
really need car and there isnt shops around me for miles???
After watching this I think I’d rather donate my neon to a demolition derby
then try and do this.
I’ve done everything you’ve said in the video and it still sounds and runs
like it’s jumping timing. Any suggestions?
Used this to help change my timing belt, tensioner, and water pump. Thanks!
Should note that on my 05 the sleeve on the mechanical tensioner was not
given on the replacement part from AutoZone so we had to re-use the old one
and make it work. Did this so it came together easier later.
I got it all the way down to putting the pulley back on, where can I get
the 110mm bolt at?
A little after 5 minutes into the video on the lower torque strut, you
mentioned having a belt around the mount. Could you explain where exactly
you had the cable?
When the timing belt is off, and rotating the crank on an interference
engine with a wrench, it advisable to put the crank marks at 9 or 3 0’clock
position where the pistons are all halfway in the bores. If the crank is at
12 or 6 o’clock positions and the crank is rotated there is a chance of
contacting the piston tops and bending the valves. FYI
Thanks for the info now I’m off to check and replace the valves..if not
I’ll just get a good used head..
Richpin. Thank you so much for the video! You could have saved me hundreds.
I never would have had the gumption to change my water pump without your
video and the one from autotech. I watched it backwards and forwards so
much that I started thinking in that Boston, is it?accent. Can’t thank you
enough. When I got to my water pump I decided it wasn’t leaking (it had
been changed twice by the same mechanic the last just about 4k ago) so I
changed the thermostat housing instead HA! But I wouldn’t change the
experience being that I was on vacation and want under pressure to get out
done. Thanks!
Thank’s for your answer Rich! Again, awesome video. So detailed. Still a
little apprehensive about doing the job, but with your awesome instruction,
I think I can get it right with the timing belt install, thank’s to your
little trick of backing the tension pulley off a few teeth. When tension is
put on, and the belt moves, the pulley lines up properly. Logical, but not
obvious. Great tip.
I was going up hill and by the time I reached the top the engine just shut
off. All power was on. As soon as I got down hill I tried turning it back
on and it didn’t. Can this be an issue with the timing belt breaking?
Before this had happened there where times when I felt the car was
struggling for power. Any ideas?
Richpin. Thank you so much for the video! You could have saved me hundreds.
I never would have had the gumption to change my water pump without your
video and the one from autotech. I watched it backwards and forwards so
much that I started thinking in that Boston, is it?accent. Can’t thank you
enough. When I got to my water pump I decided it wasn’t leaking (it had
been changed twice by the same mechanic the last just about 4k ago) so I
changed the thermostat housing instead HA! But I wouldn’t change the
experience being that I was on vacation and want under pressure to get out
done. Thanks!
thank you sir…you provided some great insight. why did you perfer to
rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise 3 tooths and then forward to half a
tooth before mark. The manual and some other videos showed only rotating
back the half-tooth..I chose your method and worked just fine. Thanks again.
Hello there. I need to remove the engine mount plate to be able to replace
the serpentine belt tensioner pulley. Do I have to follow all the steps up
to 9:53 in the video? Do I really need to remove the cranskhaft pulley and
the alternator belt?
Hey Rich, when you removed that bottom mount and said the engine tends to
want to jump so you looped a cable around it, did you just loop it around
the back of the engine and then around the front end? Also when your in
there is there enough room to fit an impact in to remove the bolt holding
the camshaft pulley on? Or would it be best to leave the timing belt on and
use a socket and ratchet? I have to remove it to replace the water pump on
mine! Real helpful video though!
I will have to check but are you sure you have to remove the mount plate.
my timing belt also broke while the engine was running and i had it fixed
but it wont idle it starts up and then dies out do you think the pistons
could have hit the valves or the timing is off?
I know what you mean a timing belt replacement can be a taunting job hope
it works out ok.
so basically you wanna make sure the “MOCKS” line up right?
Only way to get that pulley off is with the puller.
new water pump, timing belt, serpentine belt, new engine mount(1) and power
steering pulley. total cost about 2 grand. im officially poor.
i have a new cam gear with advance and retard marks from fidanza to advance
my timing 4 degrees do i move the crank gear also?
Excellent thing to know. I have the part (whole kit with timing belt and
pump, seals etc.) but I wanted some clarification on one thing you said in
your AWESOME video. You say that you used a cable to secure the engine
before taking out the T55 bolt for the engine mount so that the bolt is
easier to get out and the engine won’t shift. Where did you hook the cable
to and from? (ie: location) and do I need a cable, or can I use a cargo
strap elsewhere on the engine. Seen that before too. Thank’s!
Oh no, I have to do this tomorrow. Thanks for showing the process. More
thanks for having this in HD.
No. Reversing the arms won’t do it. I took a cheap punch from Harbor
Freight and cut some off the end (2″ maybe) and used it instead of the bar
they have in the kit. Handle side goes into the crank and the punch side
slides right into the bolt. It bent it slightly, but it works.
wow the spacer thingie.. i did the same thing.. i was going crazy.. i
couldnt get the pully off. damn i thought i had the wrong kit.. smh..now i
feel better..
I would replace the water pump if i was planning to keeping the car at the
100,000 mark.
Looks difficult, I was planning on changing the right center motor mount,
but now I see that with “a little” more work I can change timing belt.
Wow i saw that don’t no what to make of it.
I usually put a good used head on.
@Usalogic If the belt is to loose it could skip on the sprockets.To tight
it accelerates the wear on the belt and pulleys.
The neon SUCKS BAD!
dead on, best vid i watched on this and the tip on damper puller was great
with out it i probley whoud have tour it up. also nice that you stated
sizes saved me a lot of time and sweet i did this outside on a 100*+ day