Chrysler 300C Transmission Issue – NAG1 – Plug Leakage – GoPro Lesson

Chrysler 300C Transmission Issue – NAG1 – Plug Leakage – GoPro Lesson

TSB – 21-002-05A : This addresses issues with the plug leaking transmission fluid internally, causing possible codes, and shifting issues. This is with Magnu…

19
Like
Save


Comments

Elias Regalado says:

Will this work for a 2006 Dodge Charger R/T?


isidro mansanareziii says:

My 06 300c is startin to act up on shifting dont take off as fast as it use
to could this be the problem? I get codes p1521 p3497 ??? Any ideas thx.

bayro211 says:

Man…. Your a freaking genius!! Mine is driving fine but has a small leak
I noticed. It’s coming form there. 147k miles later.

fortheLoveofuk says:

No problem. As far as re-builds on auto trannys, I don’t do that. But if
you are a real tech, you should be able to at least diagnose things,
right??? Cheers!

p tate says:

Thanks alot…..Ive had my changed for the second time and didnt know how
easy is was to do myself…you saved me 250.00. you are the man

fortheLoveofuk says:

It most likely can be fluid in the plug due to the O-rings leaking. That’s
what happened to a friend’s car that I also fixed. I would start there, its
cheap and easy.

dodgecrazy1970 says:

Thanks for the advice the technicians I work under didnt want to help me at
all because they “Don’t do transmissions”. Again thanks I’ll order the
parts tomorrow.

pimpsami6313 says:

I have a 2005 Chrysler 300 and my engine or transmission skips/stutters
when im driving between 60 to 80mph. Could this be the problem? Or do you
have any idea what it could be from? Thank you

gtemplesrt8 says:

I’ve got a 06 300C SRT8 and it feels as if it may be slipping but only on
take of but after that it seems ok. Could that plug be a culprit or
something else?

xxmobbdeepxx says:

hey is amsoil transmission oil good for my 05 300c 5.7l v8? is it better
then the chrysler atf+4? that is only semi-synthetic vs fully synthetic
amsoil?

Riley says:

I’m 17 and all I want to do is open up a shop like yours. What is the best
education path to take?

fortheLoveofuk says:

Its the tranny harness plug kit. And no tranny oil change needed.

fortheLoveofuk says:

Mainly shifting issues, random upshifts, poss hard shifts. The one thing to
do is unplug the connector and if there is fluid there, it may be an issu.

pimpsami6313 says:

What is this part called? And if you change this part do you have to do a
transmission oil change or no?

dodgecrazy1970 says:

2006 300 3.5L

fortheLoveofuk says:

No, the O-rings are around the plug housing. When you pop out the plug
housing after you unplug the harness, there is a 7mm bolt to take out, then
the housing pops out with the O-rings on it.

fortheLoveofuk says:

1. Using a compatible scan tool check for communication with the Electric
Shift Module (ESM). Check the connection at the ESM for damage and pin fit.
2. Check the voltages at the SLA, Pink wire has battery voltage with the
key on and the Black/White wire is ground. The CAN “C” bus voltages on the
White/Light Green and White/Light Blue, each wire should have between 2.4
to 2.6 volts.

pimpsami6313 says:

Alright ill try that first. Is it hard to find the O-rings underneath the
car?

fortheLoveofuk says:

Poss misfire?

Dappa Don says:

I have a 2011 300c so far i haven’t had tht problem, do u think i should
put in the update part one??

gtemplesrt8 says:

Thanks for the info! I think it actually might have had something to do
with the spark plugs and or oil. I changed both the other day and using
Royal Purple oil and seems to be driving and running much better! Also
since I changed both the average mpg jumped from 14.5 to 20.3 @ 75 mph!!!!
Also have a new K&N air filter replacement coming Tuesday and hopefully it
will help even more since it is filthy! Thought that might help a few
people out there! 🙂

fortheLoveofuk says:

The tranny is a sealed unit, except the fill tube. The a/c condensation
drain tube should drain to the ground, but if it isn’t, that shouldn’t be a
problem. Unless something is getting into the plug itself.

fortheLoveofuk says:

Yes! Indeed the best oil you can use. Either the signature seris fluid, or
the OE series fluid. I typically use the OE. Check out my link I put
up…..Amsoil web site.

fortheLoveofuk says:

What year and model is your ride?

TheDirtybeats1 says:

did it make it shift at inappropiate times?

fortheLoveofuk says:

Hey Riley! Well, try an automotive training institute, like Wyotech,
Lincoln, or something similar. Also, you might want to take some business
courses too. I am going to training and diagnopstic courses every year, for
updates, new stuff, hybrid courses, and stuff like that. It is a constant
learning experience! I have been doing this for almost 15 years now, and
started when i was in h.s., working on dirtbikes and small engines! That is
an awesome goal to have buddie!

fortheLoveofuk says:

Not a problem! Seems to be a tough job, but really isnt. Glad I could help!
Thanks for watching! -Matt-

fortheLoveofuk says:

It does not need to be drained.

Meastriser says:

This thing doesnt want to push.back.in all the way because the little screw
is just spinning when i turn it. Im thinking of just rtving the plug
directly in the socket (yee haw!) wish they wouldve duhd that in the first
place. Lubed the orings got it past the second oring.

crazboy says:

What are the issues exactly? I have a 2006 Magnum SXT with the NAG1 And its
upshifts are slightly hard. Not terrible but enough for me to notice. Is
this a possibility?

fortheLoveofuk says:

No, that doesnt have the NAG1 transmission. But always check the main
harness plug that goes into the transmission for fluid.

fortheLoveofuk says:

The U codes are a loss of communication with the TCM, check your battery
cables, and then have someone check and diag the shifter assembly and ESM
(electronic shift module).

dodgecrazy1970 says:

I’m getting a p2767 code from my NAG1 with a noticeable 2-1 downshift and
my plug ($10) area looks wet, good place to start or should I order the
electrohydraulic control unit ($300) with the speed sensor now and do both?

fortheLoveofuk says:

Honestly, I would do both. This code,mainly refers to the control unit
under the valve body, which has to be removed to gain access. The speed
sensors are sold as a complete assembly which may be called the “Lead
Frame”, or possibly the Electrohydraulic Control Unit.

fortheLoveofuk says:

Hey Don! I don’t think that is necessary, these newer trannys have some
driveability issues, like a shudder or delayed engagement. There are some
bullitens on your car that involve re-flashing the TCM/PCM at your dealer.
No known issues yet with plug leakage. Thanks for your question Dappa Don!!
-Matt-

Sean Gall says:

I’ve got a 2005 chrysler 300c and just yesterday I had dropped it into
first and gunned it. Everything had seemed fine but once I got into a drive
threw I couldn’t move after I had stopped. I turned the car off and then on
again and it started working again but my car quite literally will not
shift passed 2nd gear. I don’t know what to do I really hope this maybe can
help. I don’t want to have to put a whole new tranni in this thing

fortheLoveofuk says:

I doubt it is this issue. Sounds like either you are low on fluid or the
tranny might be going out. 🙁 I would check the plug at least, just pop it
out and make sure there is no fluid on the plug.

donneeome says:

Can that cause shudder.

fortheLoveofuk says:

The car may be in “limp-mode”. Any codes??

goflamesgo says:

Does the trans need tone drained for this replacement?

fortheLoveofuk says:

Yes, mainly at highway speeds.

lawhoward007 says:

Would that problem be the same in a 02′ Concorde XLI?

Write a comment