If you’re asking about the sensor mounted on the bumper absorption metal,
I suspect it is a sensor for something. It’s powered cause there is a heat
sink on top of it. Could be the temp sensor input for the ceiling mounted
display. There should be no connections to the condenser or the
transmission cooler. Only the radiator. The oil cooler is mounted between
the condenser and the radiator. Other than that, I don’t know what else it
could be. Some vehicles, high end I think, have a sensor for the condenser
that is an input for a diagnostic meter.
Be sure to look for the last two minutes of the video.
Thanks so much for posting this vid. I have a 2001 Town & Country 3.8l so
the setup is identical. I even had the same broken rivets on the
transmission cooler bracket like you had and used your technique with the
zip ties to firm that up. I was hoping to avoid completely removing the
bumper assembly but by the time I was done, I had it lying on the deck
right below. Just couldn’t get to Those 2 lower bolts on the condenser
without removing it. I’ll tell you what, replacing that dryer was the most
frustrating part of the job. It has to go in exactly how the old one came
out, which was not easy to get the fittings to line up cause it fits very
snug in the holder so there was no turning it to correct the alignment.
Anyhow, thanks again for the great vid.
Look for oily dirt. Tire Kingdom said the leak was the rear evaporator, but
any shop will only check the condensate drain for R134a. There is Armaflex
in the coil box that outgasses and gives a false leak. The condenser is
only about $150 at Advanced Auto and they give a 10% discount if you have a
military ID card, active or retired. I believe that they also loan tools,
such as the vacuum pump. The o-ring kit is about $9. A shop will charge you
nearly $1000 to do the work. Good luck, have fun.
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If you’re asking about the sensor mounted on the bumper absorption metal,
I suspect it is a sensor for something. It’s powered cause there is a heat
sink on top of it. Could be the temp sensor input for the ceiling mounted
display. There should be no connections to the condenser or the
transmission cooler. Only the radiator. The oil cooler is mounted between
the condenser and the radiator. Other than that, I don’t know what else it
could be. Some vehicles, high end I think, have a sensor for the condenser
that is an input for a diagnostic meter.
Be sure to look for the last two minutes of the video.
Thanks so much for posting this vid. I have a 2001 Town & Country 3.8l so
the setup is identical. I even had the same broken rivets on the
transmission cooler bracket like you had and used your technique with the
zip ties to firm that up. I was hoping to avoid completely removing the
bumper assembly but by the time I was done, I had it lying on the deck
right below. Just couldn’t get to Those 2 lower bolts on the condenser
without removing it. I’ll tell you what, replacing that dryer was the most
frustrating part of the job. It has to go in exactly how the old one came
out, which was not easy to get the fittings to line up cause it fits very
snug in the holder so there was no turning it to correct the alignment.
Anyhow, thanks again for the great vid.
Good video, funny too. Now I know how to get that condenser out.
Look for oily dirt. Tire Kingdom said the leak was the rear evaporator, but
any shop will only check the condensate drain for R134a. There is Armaflex
in the coil box that outgasses and gives a false leak. The condenser is
only about $150 at Advanced Auto and they give a 10% discount if you have a
military ID card, active or retired. I believe that they also loan tools,
such as the vacuum pump. The o-ring kit is about $9. A shop will charge you
nearly $1000 to do the work. Good luck, have fun.