1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, TIMING BELT & WATER PUMP 1 of 4

1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible, TIMING BELT & WATER PUMP 1 of 4

How to on changing the water pump and timing belt of the 1996 to 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible with the 2.5 Mitsubishi engine. Chrysler Sebring JXI 1999 …

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chelo3218 says:

Need extreme help. removed timing belt w/o checking or know about the
marks, put everything back together and car wont start. lined up all marks
and still no start. fwd cam has play in it, is that normal? y wont this car
start????

syyenergy7 says:

No it should not play in it. You’d be better off taking to someone because
if the pistons hit the valves you have a big problem. It’s job that
requires a lot of attention to detail and is not that easy to do for most
people.

megasonify says:

Another nice video. Quick question before taking on this project. With 120k
miles and no problems to date and all original spark plugs, water pump,
serpentine belt and timing chain, would you recommend changing as
preventative maintenance or continuing to see how long my luck lasts? Do
these components last sometimes to 200k? Thanks.

syyenergy7 says:

@syyenergy7 If the part about removing the large bolt (22 mm or 13|16ths)
on the pulley seems to be a problem. You might want to try a hand-impact
with the proper IMPACT socket. Regular sockets do not work as good with an
impact wrench since they are much lighter. The heavy walled impact sockets
work well with an impact. The hand impacts are cheap. Use a large hammer.

syyenergy7 says:

All the videos I have on the Sebring are on the playlist on my homepage.
Another note, if the oil seals on the valve covers are leaking in the spark
plug wells that can cause a minor shorting condition and lead to the
distributor and /or CPS failing. On the cork valve cover gaskets use a
light amount of spray gasket sealant from Permatex. Don’t use RTV or gasket
maker with the cork gasket. The spray gasket sealant is the right stuff &
will make the cork gasket seal perfectly.

megasonify says:

All buckled up; runs smooth. One thing though. Engine light on. Checked all
sensors several times and all plugged in. Idles smooth and runs smooth. Any
thoughts? Can’t thank you enough for your videos and comments. I rented a
Haynes manual didn’t tell me didley. Your videos really inspired me to take
this job on. I wish I had time to watch all your posts. Graci.

megasonify says:

One quick question on timing marks. You make your own marks correct? Also,
is it safe to say that if you mark all pulleys and their respective
position on the block, that you’re going to be okay as long as you’re on
those marks after assembly. I’ve heard you need to hand crank the engine to
confirm valves are not bottoming. Is this a good idea? I’ve purchased all
my parts for a Memorial Day garagefest. Thanks.

Steven Hellmers says:

Greta set of videos sir. Recently I changed my cam seals, in doing so, I
neglected to properly tighten the cam gear in the front.What’s the
possibility of no valve damage if it was running when the gear fell off? Is
there a way to check for valve damage without reassembling the whole
engine. Any visual clues? Thanks for your assistance and videos.

syyenergy7 says:

Almost guaranteed that you have valve damage. The way to check is to do a
compression test.

megasonify says:

Thanks, damn you cover a wide variety of topics; no wonder you’re up at
4am. I’ll report back to you in a couple of days.

syyenergy7 says:

The engine itself is great. Other little problems come up. I went over most
issues I had in videos. Certain qwerks to this car, but not a big deal if
they are told.

ramdomhat says:

Hello…. a question 4 you please. We own a 99, Iv replaced the alternator
3 times. I swore I would NEVER do it again twice. Relocating the lower bolt
to its home is a true pain. No fear, Iv found the cause!!! The valve cover
is leaking very small amout of oil. Oil is killing the alternator by
‘lubing’ the brushes inside ALT. = bad My question to you is
this…………. Do you have any pointers, maybe a video I have not found
? Thanks busa101 @ hotma**.com

syyenergy7 says:

@silveradotoomuch The Sebring is pretty difficult to work one. Since it is
front wheel drive and has good room in the interior and trunk, the
mechanical areas are very cramped. The 1996 to 2000 is much better than any
of the newer ones. The Mitsubishi engine is durable but the 2,7 engine
found in the later models is often not and even harder to work on. I’m
going to be very detailed in these vids to make things simpler.

syyenergy7 says:

Yes correct. I did that late at night. It was a 22 mm or about 7/8 inch.
I’m aware of the 25.4 to the inch. Very late night vid, Thanks for the
correction. I fixed the annotation.

Thomas A. Anderson says:

Im not sure if anyone posted this but if you get coolant leaking down the
top of the bell housing from the lower intake gallery, it’s because the
internal water pump shaft seal is busted and the pee-hole is designed to go
through the back side of the water pump housing directly underneath where
the large cross-over pipe connects to the water pump housing. The design
prevents coolant from leaking into the timing belt area and causing severe
engine damage.

syyenergy7 says:

You need a code reader to see why the engine light is on. A basic one is
cheap. Read the codes & write down what they are. Then clear the codes.
Drive it until the engine light comes on. Usually the 1st code to come on
is the problem. if you drive the car a while more codes may pop up and then
it gets confusing to figure out the problem.

silveradotoomuch says:

Thank you for the video updates. I am beginning to wish that I had never
got my Sebring now..lol.

syyenergy7 says:

If you keep everything lined up you should be fine. After I installed the
new belt with the marks lined up I did rotate the engine over to verify
everything and make sure the marks were perfectly lined up.

MassMechanic says:

Let’s do some math. 13 divided by 16 is .8125 inches times 25.4(equivalent
to 1 inch). Get your calculators…… 20.6375 millimeters; I can guarantee
you a 13/16 socket will not fit on that bolt. 7 divided by 8 is .875 inches
times 25.4 is 22.225, or a little bigger than 22 millimeters soooo.. a 22
millimeter, or a 7/8 inch socket will fit, but 13/16 will not.

syyenergy7 says:

Thanks for that comment. Another reason I like the 2.5 engine in the older
Sebrings vs the 2.7 engine in the Gen II Sebrings.

syyenergy7 says:

They could last longer but if the timing belt breaks you could destroy the
engine or at least bend valves. It should be changed as a precaution.

megasonify says:

Update: one day later,a few short drives (15 to 20 min) and a couple long
ildling sessions 20-30 min, I pulled out of the garage today wih engine
light on, came to a stoplight, turned right and the light went off for
good. Amazingly good.

coquicr says:

How long did it take you to finish this job?

syyenergy7 says:

A couple of evenings. An average weekend mechanic could do it in a couple
days. The power steering bracket bolts are a pain. It took longer because I
was videoing. I did do a few of these already before. A mechanic I think
takes 6 hours.

Pedro Talavera says:

Good job on this video. Thanks

ramdomhat says:

Thankyou Sir !

MassMechanic says:

I’ve been working on the same car for the last week. The timing belt is a
PITA! I didnt remove the intake or the bracket for the power steering; I
just cut the plastic cover in two (its my car I can do what I want with
it). I called my local dealer to see how much they would charge; they said
recommend replacing water pump as well. Total= $1000. I paid $900 for the
car. Have you had any major engine issues with this vehicle?

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