SIMPLE HOW TO VIDEO …
TIMING CHAIN INSTALLATION BIG BLOCK / SMALL BLOCK CHEVY HOW TO DO IT YOURSELF !!!
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SIMPLE HOW TO VIDEO …
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Get’r done sir : ) Average Joe’s rebuild which is plenty good for just gettin around.
Thanks for the video tips
Thank you Cooter. 🙂
lol i like watching your videos cause the randomness! and the drunk neighbor..haha
one more thing , if you line up the timing mark to TDC before you take it apart , and when you get in there you find that the cam gear is not inline dot to dot , don’t fear , just when you put it back together turn the cam to match the crank without the chain , use the gear as a handle , then when aligned add the chain , and cam gear bolts …so in the end all that matters is that dots are in the right place …
the key way will only let you put the gear on in the correct place (note some have 3 different ones , read instructions , I suggest stock ) also the pin in the cam will only allow you to put that gear on one way as well , point the dots together , and your done , I have tried to explain everything , in a couple different ways for you here , let me know if you understand , if not I will try again , as I tried to also include some how it works info too , hope it doesn’t confuse …
when you have the crank sprocket in position the # one piston will be in the tdc position , and not on any stroke say exhaust , intake ,or compression , when you line up the cam gear dot , you then have matched the cam to make it the compression stroke , basically if you need to have the dot on the crank pointing up to even get the two gears aligned in the first place , tip is to line up the timing tab to TDC before you take it apart , the key way will only let you put the crank gear continued
Does the #1 Piston have to be TDC before you match up the two dots?
that there’s a good vid and explanatoranation there sheriff roscoe p coltrane
I didn’t notice on the video if you used high temp red loctite on the cam bolts and a cam button.
there is no reatiner ring used in these
where is the retainer ring for the cam shaft?
I did , just never videoed it …
you should change the freeze plugs while you can get to them
Boy i tell ya!! Lol
Thanks alot brother! 🙂 i sure do appreciate all te info you’ve provided me with. Ive been trying to find out what engine it was for awhile know ..ive joined a few forums but none of them were usefull :/ …thanks again bro!.
yup to be sure drop the pan , but unless someone was smoking crack that day at GM , that should be a 4 bolt main block , could be either one …you can also use a bore scope , and look up through the oil drain , or use a light and mirror if you have the front cover off …
like I said , it’s from a 1975 pickup , 3/4 or 1 ton , it should be a 4 bolt main block , but it’s not a given on those , as for a builder , yeah it’s good , the heads are just so so though if the ones that it was built with …
Oh! And do i have to drop the oil pan to find out if it is a 2 bolt or 4 bolt main ..ive read that they made both 2 and 4 bolt mains fir that cast number
Your a life saver bro ..thanks alot!!:) ..so what fo you think?? Is it a good engine to rebiuld? And is there any way of knowing what car it was originally inn?..i hppe im not getting on your nervs with all these questions :)….
I don’t play with engines , I have forgotten more than most people ever knew about them , and I have books on everything , giving me those numbers made it foolproof though just an easy decode lol always pull the numbers off the pad on a chevy engine , the casting numbers are a catch all really …
ok built in flint mich. on the 06-25-1975, TXB ,1975,350,standard cab, LS9, 165HP,4BBL, C-20 to 3500 that was easy , and the correct casting number is 3970010 for sure , what the numbers you gave me are a partial vin of the truck , and the complete engine mfg code , this is exactly what it is for sure 😎
Those two numbers were on the pass. Side in back o the alternator..as far as the casting number; im sure its 397000..ive gad alot of problems on that alot o people tell me the same thing, but im sure its 397000…i really appreciate your elp bro..im trying to get my 79 elco (el camino) ready for the ladies lol..; )
I got two numbers on the pad they are: VO625TXB, (the second letter/number might be a zero). The second number is C7Z202677….the seven right after the six might be a seven
it will all interchange but , without knowing it’s history , and exact age , and application , double check bearings , rods , and crank , if swapping any of that , as for every other part they will mix and match , as all a 327 is , is a 350 with a shorter stroke …GM did a lot of mix matching , you can stick a 327 crank ect in a 283 , and make a 307 ..or stuff 350 parts in a 327 , and guess what , you have a 350 …hope my rambles help ya , if not shout back 😉
are you sure the number is not 3970010 ??? thats an early 350 …another way to put the question to bed is measure the stroke , a 327 is 3.25 and a 350 is 3.48 , with the crank installed , and one piston installed , you can measure the distance the piston moves , either 3 1/4 or 3 1/2 inches , you can tell with a common tape measure my friend 😉 it’s an early block either way …and I have the old GM books , there is not a 397000 anywhere in them , pull the numbers off the pad for me …
Some, tell me its a 327 and other tell me its a 350 ..others even try to tell me that i must have write the wrong numbers down and that the actual numbers are 3970010, but they aren’t im absalutely sure the casti number is 397000 ..i think the motor is so old that the cast # isnt in newer decode books .do you think the parts from a 327 are interchangeable with the 350 sbc..like the harmonic balancer and stuff..??
Thanks …maybe you can help me with decoding the casting numbers (397000). Im a member of a few chevy forums, but no one seems to be able to give me a clear answer ..
you can use a puller , a crow bar , whatever , it is not a really tight fit , but very snug , as to put it back on , a block of wood and peck it back on , or use a piece of pipe and tap it into place , just work evenly around it , and make sure the new one goes all the way on , note the original gears location , if the oil pan is still on the engine , say in the car , stuff rags in there incase you chip the teeth off the old gear , don’t want that in the pan …