This video describes the basic task of replacing one of the cooling system blend door actuators. As described in the video, we have a 2010 Traverse that all …
Chevy Blend Door Actuator Replacement – Part 1
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My Traverse 2010 is blowing only COOL air on Drivers side. Wich actuator do
I have to replace? Can you give me the number it has on the Diagram you
provided?
I opened the actuator that was in my car, and it had some weird paste on
it. hopefully, I will have hot air, after I replaced it
Not sure which actuator you replaced. The one on top you say is for air
control from windshield to floor. The lower passenger actuator I assume is
for the air temp control . My temp flow is now stuck mostly on cold side
meaning I am now freezing my ass off going down the highway in 30 deg rainy
weather while trying to constant wipe the moisture and fog off my
windshield. No heat no defrosting evaporation. Your diagram & video
helped me. tks.
I suppose this might be part of my problem 2011 traverse not switching over
from heat to ac in front…back is fine…???
I suppose it’s possible if both actuators have failed, but they perform
separate functions. It’s a REAL pain in the butt to get to the lower
actuator. Take your time. Small turns of the bit. Lots of light. Lots of
patience!
1. Make sure you check all sides. Also make sure to remove the pin on each
side by using a standard screw driver and spinning the plastic nuts 180
degrees. then you should be able to just pop the glove compartment down
VERY SLOWLY. 2. Reach down and put your finger in the small hole on the
outside of the actuator. Adjust temp settings and also zone settings. Every
actuator should move. I’m guessing the lower actuator is defective. That’s
the one that controls heat/cool.
Couple of questions – 2011 Traverse, no heat only cool air on right
passenger side. 1. The glove box won’t come off the hinge and I don’t want
to force it? 2. I can see the actuators; one is reachable and the other is
impossible but I can’t tell if they are moving? I adjusted the temp but I
can’t tell if they move…is it possible both are defected? Any help will
work. I just spent Cash on tires, brakes and rotors this month now this…
My time well spent! 🙂
You just saved my whole weekend buddy! Thanks a ton
AWESOME idea, Jake!! 😀
I’m SO glad you got those fixed…and for $4?? SWEET!!
I found that GM used the same actuators for years! SO, the part numbers
were the same for about 10 years and used in Silverado, Tahoe, Sierra and
Suburban. Someone before me at the yard needed something behind the dash
which saved me the trouble of removing the glove box and wire harness from
the firewall behind the blower motor which helped. It also helps to remove
the vent/stereo panel to get the one behind that. But nothing really helps
getting to the one behind the blower motor.
As I said, they are TIGHT to get at. I needed to change the one behind the
stereo, and the other behind the blower motor. The one behind blower motor,
I removed the glove box, and IF one has long enough arms and small enough
hands, can reach through the glove box and under the dash with a small 1/4
drive ratchet and 9/32 socket. The hand through the glove box has to hold
with one finger the socket on the screw while the other hand ratchets.
Easier said than done, but that’s how I did it.
Dan, I’ve been living with that clicking sound for years. Guess I just got
used to it, UNTIL I came upon your post. SO… now knowing what I was
looking for and analyze the problem, I made it a point to remedy it today.
I believe someone said new actuator was $30 at AutoZone, $80 at the dealer
(plus labor). I went to the salvage yard today and pulled the two that I
needed to replace and they only charged me $4 each. Now one has to have
LOTS of patience to replace them as there are TIGHT to get
@Dan Abbott thank you so much. all this information helped a lot. tyvm. 😀
cheers mate
Dan, I’ve been looking for something like this for about a month now and
the clicking is driving me nuts. I’ve had them replaced once already, which
ran me close to $300. Unfortunately, the warranty has run out on me, and
I’d much rather not pay $300 again when I can do it relatively quickly and
inexpensively. Thanks again and kudos!
Great job, Jake! Very smart move.
Thanks! I had a prob with mine stuck on floor/defrost also like another
comment, that actuator is the one directly above the one you are replacing.
Drivers actuator does hot/cold for driver. Only thing I did different is to
get a small ratcheting set from Lowes for under $10 Kobalt 9-Piece 4-in
Ratcheting Multi-Bit Screwdriver Item #: 239459 Model #: 60359. Made things
go faster and easier than using needle nose. The set comes with a T20 also.
Thanks. I tried to keep it concise, but it was tough. It’s quite a process!
But anything to save some bucks!
What year and model of car do you have? On our 2010 Traverse it was just
two little knobs, one on each side. Turn 180 degrees and pull out/away.
Then carefully open the glove compartment and pull up to detach from the
front dash.
Great video thanks so much for posting it. Simple but very helpful
Thanks man, although my problem is my air wont switch vents, its stuck on
floor and defrost blend. So I can still switch hot/cold. I still looking
online trying to locate the actuator that’s bad.
Cant figure out how to remove glove box
That might be the actuator on the driver’s side. Remove both sides of
panels. Move your air from top to bottom and feel back there with your
finger to feel if the actuator is moving. Also, shine a bright light down
the vend and do the same. You should be able to clearly see the vents move.
You might have an obstruction.
very clear, concise… WELL DONE! when it comes to REPRESENT (those who
make vids like this, for the sake of their ‘fellow man’….. YOU da MAN!)