The fuel sending unit in my ’66 Chevy quit registering the fuel level properly so I had to replace it. Here’s how I replaced it and made sure it was working …
The fuel sending unit in my ’66 Chevy quit registering the fuel level properly so I had to replace it. Here’s how I replaced it and made sure it was working …
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I have a feeling that it failed because of the ethanol gas. It would read
fine in the middle of the range, but not on either end. When the tank was
full it would read right around 3/4 and it would say 1/4 and really be on
fumes.
Great video. I wonder why those other units were failing so soon?
Yes I have I had to fix the pump cause when I put it in the pushrod wasn’t
in the up position so I hope that solves my problem
thanx man reall helpfull . im in the process of buying a replacement
sending unit on my vw . if you can message me with the tools need and how
to connect back up the new one because i also have easy access to the
sending unit its under my back seat . . . thank you
@farmall51 The Ferguson TE-20 tractors came with a large open ended spanner
that had fuel tank measurements marked on it. Old tractors didn’t have fuel
gauges; you “dipped” the tank to see the fuel level.
@More350Power I have been told that Ethanol is “hydroscopic” (attracts
moisure) Consequently moisure, such as internal condensation, is drawn into
the fuel. Modern cars use internally lined fuel metal or even special
plastic fuel tanks to combat this problem Water in fuel may be causing
corrosion to your sender units.
Have you tried blowing air through the steel line that runs down the tank
and along the frame rail? You could have a clog in it.
I ran all 3 of those engines with no problems at all! carboraters not fuel
injected. if u run an electric pump besure to mount the pump as close to
the tank as possible. wire the hot wire to the ignition post on ur fues
box. the wire will send a 12volt signal when the key is in the start
position and nothing when its in the acc position. make ure you ground it
by the tank and add an extra filter in ur line!
Interesting stuff! I very recently had to fix the fuel pump in a Nissan
Pulsar. The fuel pump, a submersible unit, and the fuel gauge sender unit
are all located in the fuel tank. To get to this combined unit the whole
rear seat has to be removed, a cover-plate removed and then the whole unit
removed through a hole in the top of the tank. The problem was a blocked
mesh screen on the intake of the pump. The fuel filter was also blocked.
Both problems were traced to water contaminated fuel!
Well I’m having a trouble with my gas getting to my carb even after changer
the tank, sender, and fuel pump
@OzzInter There was an aftermarket fuel cap for the Farmall letter series
tractors and their McCormick and IH counterparts that had a twisted strip
of metal and a cork that went inside the tank. The cork would move on the
strip and spin it, which then moved the needle on the fuel gauge that was
on the cap. That cost money which most farmers didn’t have, so its
difficult to find an original one. I use a stick if the fuel isn’t close to
a known mark.
I have a 72 c20 with the same sender did u have a problem when u put yours
back in
No, the tank is isolated from the truck with rubber blocks under it, and
rubber strips under the metal bands that hold it in place. It’s easier to
add a single wire for grounding rather than rely on the tank keeping a good
electrical connection with the cradles/body.
haha i use the same thing for my old tractors . haha love the fuel stick.
or the lines are rotted thru, blow compressed air thru your fuel lines and
look for gas to be sweating thru the steal lines! if that’s not the case
check ur fuel pump rod in ur engine.theyll sometime freese up in the motor
and wont pump ur gas .that rod works off a lobe on ur cam, either that lobe
is warn or ur rod is broken or seized up in the block! that happened to me
twice and both times I opted for an electric pump. I was running a chev 6.5
diesel and a chev 454 big block and chev 350 s/b
@fastbacks001 All I used was a couple of standard sockets and a set of
flare nut wrenches. Its straight forwards, pop the old one out and the new
one (mine was OEM) goes in exactly the same way. It should only have 2
wires, a ground and a hot wire and they’re easy to tell apart.
my 64 does the same thing, I also have a stick in the back haha, mine just
says “1/3” and that’s when I fill it up. I will be replacing the fuel
sending unit soon
Love them old trucks. “sol” cracked me up! Sometimes I wonder if the stuff
and possibly ethanol damages the sending units. Ive had to change some in
recent years where i never had to before.
Nope, it was very straight-forwards to change out. I think I may have
stripped one of the screws putting it back together though…