how to cheat when you replace your Cadillac CTS front differential bushing with a sawzall, 36mm socket and a hammer! first remove the inner rubber part, usua…
cadillac cts front differential bushing cheat
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interesting theory, what do you do when the driveshaft is replaced? ….or
the diff, or the transmission? The driveshaft is balanced independently so
you can install it in any way, yes, do mark the flex coupler, it can be
installed incorrectly. Thanks for the comment!
hey whats up SUBTLEDRIVER what are the symptoms of a bad front diif
bushing??cause for the traction control to come on often?? thanks man.
Where did you get the diff bushing for the caddy
This is the front, differential-bushing, or forward-most diff bushing, or
bushing that is in the front of the rear differential of a car that is rwd
and doesn’t have a front diff. Thanks for the comment!
so all you need to do is take out the 2 rear bolts and the front bushing
bolt, and the rubber flex disk and the diff will til down? about to have my
mechanic replace the bushing also. Any tips i can let him know? did the
clunk go away!? thanks
what does clocking the new bushing mean when you install it? THANKS
what is the 36 mm socket for?
you may have installed the couplers backwards.
clunking when hitting gas, or letting off. caused from age, normal wear and
tear and from not using parking brake before putting car in gear or park.
best way to check bushing is to look at it.
To install, All I did was tap it in with a big hammer, pretty easy..
well, its been a few years, i think i used a sledge to get it started, then
a socket or flat beefy washer or cone that fit the outer sleeve with a
through bolt/threaded rod and nuts and washers on both ends and tightened
down. it was easy after i got it started with the big hammer.
Clocking the bushing means it can go in the wrong way, so you need to make
sure it goes in the same angle, as it can be rotated and installed wrong.
If you look at the bushing, it will have a reinforced section that faces
up, if installed wrong it will fail quickly. the engine torque is going to
push up and down, if installed 90* it will tear.
Vibrations after messing with driveshaft? My understanding is that
driveshafts are balanced, so it’s important to mark the alignment of the
shaft with the trany and diff. I put two dots on the bottom of the shaft,
diff flange, trany flange, and any flex couplers that are removed. Then
everything is in the same orientation as from the factory. I also paint an
arrow on the flex couplers so they don’t go in backwards. (old post is old,
but others may come here like I did)
Buy these flex discs from Autowado.com
Hey, i just changed the two flex disc couplers because of the clunk and im
about to change this bushing too. but since the change of the couplers it
vibrates when going around 40 mph. does this mean i installed them wrong?
I’d love to see the tool you made out of a bolt and washers to install the
new bushing. I tried that method. It requires a socket, or fitted ring
because the bushing’s center is longer than the outer sleeve. One can only
get about 75% in with just washers as the device will just ‘grab’ and
fruitlessly compress the solid center component. And it’s not obvious,
during compression, one can only see the sleeve and housing. In the end, we
used a large socket and a mini sledge to get the last 25%.
Isn’t that the rear differential bushing and not the front?
I could have used this technique on a Jeep Commander front diff
bushing…instead of fighting it on a press. Good bid!
thanks for the video. I just bought an 05 sts 2 days ago and it clunks
because of the rear diff bushing. The techs are saying its a 700 dollar
job. The part is only 30 bucks. Im going to do it myself. My question is
related to unbolting the rear diff. Is all you do unbolt it and disconnect
the drive shaft and its perfectly fine to have it swivel around to access
the bushing? Also…would you happen to know the torque specs on the 3 diff
bolts as well as the drive shaft bolts? Thanks
the way you mentioned is fine. I don’t have the torque specs. sorry.
Yeah, it’s doable with a bolt and washer (and socket). I was just
commenting for the benefit of the next guy that comes looking. The
important thing is that one applies pressure to the bushing’s sleeve, not
the bushing’s center. And since the center sticks out of the sleeve, a ring
or socket is needed in addition to the washers and bolt. If I had a longer
center bolt that accommodated the large socket, I wouldn’t have needed a
hammer. Good vid, not a criticism.
You may have installed one or both of the couplers backwards.Think this
way, look at the transmission yoke, find out what direction it spins to
make the car go forward. Now the yoke would want to “PULL” the connecting
driveshaft yoke along, rather than push. So the strong chord in the coupler
will be positioned behind the output trans yoke bolt, then attached to the
driveshaft input yoke. hopefully an arrow shows the correct direction.