I spent about $150 on tools. These tools can be used for any bearings I may need to do in the future. I bought the tools at Harbor Freight.
I spent about $150 on tools. These tools can be used for any bearings I may need to do in the future. I bought the tools at Harbor Freight.
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Where can I purchase the large bearing seperator? I purchased the whole kit
but it only came with a 2″ and 3″ which are too small for my rear wheel
bearings and dont fit around it. Every place I call all say that they dont
have any bigger sizes. Any help? Thanks! Great video
Ed, what is the size/diameter of the Large Bearing Separator that you use
to remove the Hub?
I wouldn’t recommend hitting on the disk part of the rotor. I would only
hot in the hub part
I just bought this adapter kit for my ’93 325I but mine doesn’t have
955-11. Mine is 955-13 thru 955-15 skips to 955-17 and up…….. small
ones 955-09… etc…. What will work with my Pittsburg 21 pcs. front wheel
bearing addapter kit to do this job? My email adr is southerngentle_1 at
yahoo dot come
Great video man
Hey bud, isnt this indentical to audi a4 20003
Thank you SO MUCH for this video. I replaced a rear wheel bearing on my
wife’s 330i yesterday and those tools from Harbor Freight made the job
easy-peasy!
You mentioned a cheap bearing from your last repair, perhaps you should
consider that not using the proper tools had something to do with it’s
failure. Any thoughts?
Hello EdzGarage. Can an impact wrench be used on the bearing puller or
would it cause damage?
Rockauto.com has the rear hubs(VALUE PRO Part # SPK250 ) for cheap 14.05
ea. & $10 S/H for both. I ordered them at the same time I ordered the
bearings (FLENNOR Part # FR591037 {#33411130617)which were $25.79 ea &
$8.26 S/H for both. Obvcourse the S/H is to my ZIP code. in KY…Yours may
be slightly dif. The listing for the FLENNOR Bearing mentions “Part is
designed for EU Market vehicles” But I cross checked the Dimensions and BMW
OEM # They are an exact match in every way With the other brands, at double
the cost, isted for that same OEM#! . Plus FLENNOR Provides new Snap Ring &
New Nut!
Side Note: I had never heard of FLENNOR but this is my first BMW so take
that with a grain of salt. I decided to look em up. This was posted on
FCPEuro about that brand “Flennor was founded in 1935 by Walther Flender,
the main headquarters was and remains Dusseldorf, Germany” also Someone in
a forum mentioned “Any experience with Flennor? It seems to be a German
product but for some reason it’s cheaper than FAG with better warranty”
At least its not Chinese :)
If your axle moves in and out of the BMW hub that easily, then the axle or
hub is also suspect.
Great video, thank you for making it, I learned a few things. I have a 1998
BMW E39. On the E39 the rear bearing seems to be an assembly that bolts on
RockAuto has a MOOG/NATIONAL Part # 512225 for about $60.00 each.
I took auto shop in high school in the early 70’s before FWD cars. This is
a totally different animal than what I was used too. I never had to do it
before because the bearings never failed on any of my cars until now. I
bought the harbor freight bearing adapter set and did it with no problems.
I did have to cut the inner race off of the spindle with a dremel tool.The
150 pounds of torque on those spindle nuts was kind of strange though! Not
used to that one.
Thank you sir for being very good with details.
Hi Ed, Love your videos, was wondering if you had a video on how to take
off the spindle so that i could take it to have my front hub bearing
professionally pressed. I dont have a press kit, or a separator and it only
cost 20 bucks to have them do it. Please help. thanks.
Question. I am doing this on a 2003 Mazda Protege5. Being that it has lug
nuts instead of lug studs do you have a suggestion on what to use with the
bearing seperator to split it apart? I want to keep the whole assembly on
the car as you did since this process seems easier and didn’t require air
tools.
should use breaker bar 🙂 nice video though!!
Is the bolt on that press kit??
Wht size
What if your vehicle has pressed in wheel studs?
I have done close to 200 bearings and never done it this way. I always
used the arbor press and a set of 3/4″ drive large sockets.
man ill need a whole `nother tool box for the euro cars *smh*
Thanks.
FINISHED! After battling the HF bearing removal tool off of the bolt the
mechanic and I went at again but this time with air tools. Bearing popped
right out. Reversed everything back in and all done.Silence in my car is
golden. Thanks Ed for your patience and wisdom. Gonna do the other side
friday. Should go smooth this time.
Do you know the size of the receiving nut thing that goes on the outside?
your right hand is on it at 9:49. I currently dont have a socket large
enough for it, plus I broke my adjustable wrench on it lol. thanks!
i have a huge dent puller with a wheel hub attachment 3 pulls and its off..
Yes they do. I like that they have almost any tool you need. Thanks for the
comment!
Thanks for watching!
Be careful as you hit the shaft with the hammer so you don’t mushroom or
distort the shaft. It’s a tough shaft, but I thought I should mention it.
well, if you’re brave, and have access to fine needles, you can potentially
re-grease a sealed bearing, but you’ll need to use a tiny dab of epoxy on
the hole to seal it on the grease seal. i’ve done it a couple times in a
serious pinch (like truck needs back on the road rfn).