This is just one of many short videos that i made from my rear suspension rebuild. Checking your rear springs in your E46 BMW is a must as they are prone to …
This is just one of many short videos that i made from my rear suspension rebuild. Checking your rear springs in your E46 BMW is a must as they are prone to …
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How expensive is the rear shocks , are you looking at factory replacements
or aftermarket. I could check the computer at my parts store and see what
the cost price is , any specific brand . need year, its a m3 – e46 , and
motor size
No beer before hand? What the hell! I have to say I don’t like the idea of
using the ram to get the spring. I wouldn’t want to push something that
doesn’t wanna be pushed.
the drive shaft doesn’t come into play at all when installing the spring.
the driveshaft comes from the transfer case to the differential which is no
where near the control arm. I wasn’t able to install the spring without the
use of a ram to spread it open enough.
im just looking for a factory oem style fit, there is many aftermarket
shocks but i’m not looking to lowering or wanting to put coil over shocks
on. mine is a 2002 e46 325xi with a 2.5
Cheers for that they are lowered springs around 5cms lower, u think the
standard shocks will fit this? Cheers dazza if they wont fit how will I no
what size shocks to get cheers again soz for all questions just wanna get
it right
I had ordered mine as a set off of eBay
good points you do need to be careful not to damage any of those lines
indeed, it’s a stupid set up as the space is too small for the average
spring compressor to fit, and you can’t use a inside spring compressor
because of those rubber pads. I never even thought about using the factory
jack to split them good job !!!!
just want to say thanks for the intro, thumbs up from me
there was beer in hand this is just one of 2 smaller videos from a much
larger project, im just breaking it up. the ram worked good but you have to
be careful and make sure your not pushing something beyond it’s limits, the
way they designed it your not able to use a spring compressor unless you
wanted to seriously modify them
I’m trying to do this and when installing the new spring I’m having trouble
separating the control arm enough without it hitting the damn driveshaft.
Did you even look at your driveshaft to check for clearance when you were
doing this?
Chicago winters would be pretty mild compared to our winter, but yes
corrosion is a big problem with using salt in the winter to keep the roads
from freezing to ice. you will see when i rebuild the rear end how
corrosion plays it’s part
its just like that, the harsh winters have taken it’s toll on the car, it
will be like brand new soon
wow that’s really cheap i’ve been looking at prices around 3-400 for a pair
you pretty much nailed it right on, when getting a water pump make sure it
has a metal impeller as the plastic factory ones are known to break, also
the i replaced my thermostat housing with a aluminum one. You will find
those videos in my bmw playlist on my channel
as long as the springs aren’t lowering springs and are close to the same
stock height i wouldn’t see a problem in using your shocks
Hey there.. i have an e46 330i and when im parked and when trying to put
reverse it gets stucked not stuck but its forced some how and when i step
on the gas it wobbles where the cup holders are like inside
Hey dude if I was to put a set of eibach sports springs on my 330 could I
leave the original shocks on the car? Dont want to buy springs if I have to
spend out on shocks as well cheers for any advice dazza
Ok cool. Just did the same, got a used pair for $100.
Just bought a 99 323i and my rear springs are broken in the same places
yours are, where did you get your replacement springs at?
Cooling question: My fan clutch/water pump/fan blade are all bad/ wobbly.
What should I replace while I have it apart and what parts. I’m thinking
fan, water pump, thermostat assembly, fan clutch. Deal with the coolant
reservoir when I need to…. What do you think? (105k miles on my car)
The nitrogen filled shock by KYB shows a thru bolt as you have for your
rear shock at the bottom and the top of the shock is attached with a nut
threaded at the top of the shock stem. Wholesale cost is $44.00 ea. Retail
should be around $55-66 ea.
Okay, axle shaft. Some would call it a left rear drive shaft (indy cars). I
found my problem – I left a jack under the spindle with the handle loose
but the jack was too tall. On the passenger side you need to be careful not
to separate it too far because you can damage the brake hose. I used the
OEM jack to spread things it fits nicely. Got a question about cooling but
will use another post. BTW I soaked everything down with Carwell ( Krown )
rust preventative.
i can’t give you a hundred percent answer on that, however you could run
with the stock shock you just run the risk of the shock bottoming out on
large bumps possible causing damage.
You absolutely can, and you may use lowering springs, but only up to approx
20/30mm. Any more and your shocks can bottom out over bumps which is very
dangerous. Also it should be noted that the lower your springs, the more
stress on the shocks and the greater the wear.