This video shows how to replace the CV axle, joint on your e46 325xi car. This video can also be used as a reference for other cv joint repairs on other cars…
Diy E46 Cv axle replacement, and front differential oil change
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- Tags:
Axle, Change, differential, Front, Replacement
- Categories: BMW
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Did you have to get an alignment after reconnecting all of your linkages?
hey bro whats the best why for me to find the same seal you got and can I
get it from ebay I have a 2004 325xi andf I need it for the left driver
side thanks
Why did you have to remove the swaybar-link? I’ve just changed the shocks
on my 330xd and can’t see how it should be in the way for the axle
replacement… which I’ll have to do on mine too as soon as the part is
sourced from eBay… :)
Your videos are HUGELY helpful. Thanks for taking the extra time to make
them. I barely have patience to do the job let alone do any sort of video
while doing it.
Thanks for the video! I’m about to go do this now. Do you know the torque
for each of the bolts or did you just tighten them to whatever? Please let
me know as soon as you can. Thanks!
Oh – I forgot…now the engine has a slight vibration. A mechanic told me
that it was because the axle doesn’t have any play and it’s vibrating
against the chasis.
Replaced front, driver side axle and it does not have any right to left
play in it…all of the other axles do – about an inch. Should there be
play?
dealerships charge like 800 bucks to do both axles which i think is
bullshit… im still hesitant to tear into my front end though because im
not that advanced mechanically lol
2:58, this is where i am stuck. how did u get the remaining part out. what
tools, which angle……thanks!!
you don’t need to separate the ball joint the only reason why i did was the
strut bolt is rusted in and i didn’t want to risk busting the bolt off and
being up shit creek. but any automotive store will sell the tool
Thanks again man. Sledgehammer did it finally. Now I see what that odd
looking piece sticking out of the diff is at 2:58 and why you said not to
pull too much. My boots were not torn, there was just a tiny leak from the
bigger clip of the inner boot where it holds over that rubber adapter. I’m
changing the boots and the diff. seal anyway. biut I’m wondering if a
little glue between the rubber adapter and that hollow 6 sided thing would
be a good, since it was leaking from around that adapter
Don’t be a retard and let it hang on the fucking ground because your just
going to stress out that hose and crack it. HAHAHA! Thanks man this helped
out a lot.. As far as assembly. My 85 E30 has a torn boot at the rear (
driver side inner ) so I’m just going to replace the boots, inner and
outer. Doesn’t look hard. A case of Corona and some music will help get me
through.
Hello, congrats for the good work, I appreciate it. I want to ask you
something because i did a mistake. I wanted to pull out pressure converter
or radiator claps/blades which is on oil dipstick, and accidentally i
pulled out oil dipstick from the engine, and all oil flushed out. Now i
cant put back again the oil dipstick. Do you have some ideas for me . What
can I remove to see that whole? How is fitted the oildipstick there?
Nice videos brother.
Thanks man, I’ll see what I can do with the broken strut bolt. Pickle fork
and some hammering, easy as pie! Just kidding! I made a tool from heavy
angle bracket and the fork and heavy duty bolts to push the ball joint bolt
out. NO way, the bracket got bent! Hammer? I used a 6lb. sledgehammer to
push the fork in it went in almost 70% and I was sweating like a pig! The
darn thing didn’t budge! Of course I ruined the ball joint dust cover (I
was prepared for it). Suggestions?
its true, i started doing mine myself,the dealers are ridiculous with they
charges its crap bull
i purchased my one axle from napa and it’s been pretty good so far but now
the passenger side one will need replacing in the future
now comes the bad part if your going to replace one A-arm you might as well
do both with bushings and lower ball joints on both sides. it’s expensive
but i tried to get away with only doing one side and it drove loose on one
side and tight on the other so do them both. i did videos on doing both
sides
Do u have any video’s on how to change the brake boster
looks like you need to replace that lower control arm bushing too. go
powerflex. thank you for the videos. you have helped me a lot of the last
few months. if you were local id bring you a case of beers
Thank you. I managed to remove a plastic shield from the left front wheel
and i got access to that whole. I put again the o-ring to the dipstick and
pressed there. But up in the engine was a little bit hard to put the screw
again on oilfilter suport, because there is a conic surface. I put there a
conic nut, and i think will be ok 🙂 I can tell that the dipstick system is
very very vulnerable, I mean if a screw is missing, you can remain on the
road without oil in engine.
in the video it said i used a small prybar in a banner, i just found a
angle that was i able to get and pry gently and it came out
Thanks for reply he installed two times two set within week same axles and
they keep breaking,,,, now he told me i have to change all coil-over,shocks
and struts. because car is lower all the way end with after market coil
over,shocks and struts. do you think suspension causing the axles damaged?
please let me know your opinion appreciate your time man and i am learning
from your all playlist on this car. thanks 🙂
could you plz tell me which cv axles should i buy for 02 325xi front both
side aftermarket.and which one you installed for your car? cause i got FEQ
(china) by local german car mechanic $ 750 w/install within week(2 set of
cv changed) both set cv boot torn and grease all over and klunk sound
,,,,guy is not sure what is cause.car have after market shocks dropped.
waiting for your advise man tnx
@cmanclan101 its really not that bad, get a friend to help you and a case
of beer and you’ll get it done
ya pickle fork is the way and it’s hard to get out, you really have to
hammer on it. as far as the broken bolt try using some pb blaster or some
other sort of lubricant and maybe some heat with a easy out to hopefully
get it out. broken bolts are never fun to deal with
@cmanclan101 Cool and useful DIY videos. Questions: did you consider a hub
puller to help separte the axle from hub, or did the axle just slip out?
Also, what tool did you use to install the seal?
thanks for the video. Need to change my axles, it makes clicking noises
when i turn the steering wheel.
Where did you get your cv axle from?
thanks finally got it out with barely any pressure. used this near the
bottom/right side of axle. Great-Neck-15-in-versa-pry-bar from
autozone.(its an “L” shaped bar)
good job you just need the right angle and the right tool and it pops right
out, glad to hear that it worked out for you
Great video! Where did you get the tie rod puller? Can you use a ball joint
separator to pull the tie rod end off the hub?
Thanks, yes, both sides is the way to go and as you say it’s expensive.
Found a complete kit of control arms, busings, tie rods.. on ebay for $430.
Even with $100 shipping it will be cheaper than other online stores. It’s
from Hamburg Technic. What do you say? Also I got the axle out of the
spindle by really hammering on it, but it won’t come out of the diff.! Do I
put the pry bar on the square piece of the axle or the round part? The
square piece move maybe by 2mm!
4 quarts of fluid
hahaha i had to watch the video just to see what you were talking about…
ok if your just changing the boots yes indeed use some gasket type silicon
to seal around the boots if you wish and make sure you regrease your cv
bearings before putting new boots on. use a really good long life bearing
grease to extend life but inspect the bearings for any wear and make note
of that while you have the boots off. the hollow 6 sided thing is the axle
housing i had to fight with it
No possibilities right? Def diff oil. Yeah?
Because more came out than what I put in when topping it off.
the vertical movement would be the reason your car vibrated at 50-60 mph, i
just found the same problem with the jeep I’m building that is doing the
same. and yes you can move the drive shaft in and out but don’t get to
crazy with it. one way to test to see if you cv axles are still good is
back up in a tight circles, if you feel it pop or click then they are going
bad. when cv axles start really getting bad they will click while driving