Replacing the cam chain tensioner on a 2002 R1150RT *** I DO NOT SELL MAIL-ORDER PARTS *** These are spring 2013 BMW dealer retail prices in the USA 11 31 7 …
Replacing the cam chain tensioner on a 2002 R1150RT *** I DO NOT SELL MAIL-ORDER PARTS *** These are spring 2013 BMW dealer retail prices in the USA 11 31 7 …
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Hi Chris,,where is the right side cam chain tensioner located?on 2004 BMW
R1200c Montauk,,
Thanks a lot
As a new BMW owner these are extremely help full videos, I will be
replacing my left tensioner cheap insurance!.
Thanks a million
Yes, Chris, your humor is great. When I first saw one of your videos I
thought you were an arrogant asshole. After watching several I must thank
you and wish I could have a beer or 2 with you. Thanks for all your hard
work on videos and knowledge you have shared……!!!!
Nice video. My 2002 RTP had a 17mm cam chain tentioner failed on my motor
at about 82K. The result was broken cam chain stays. Plastic pieces in the
oil. A derailed cam chain. And, possibly bent valves and a clogged oil
pump. I am in the process of replacing my motor as a result.
Chris, great video, thank you for taking the time to make all your videos.
I have a question about the Cam Chain Tensioners. When do you know they
need replacing? My 02 R1150RT clatters when I crank it then calms down
after a 30 seconds or a minute. Is that the cue to look for?
I am not just the valves , pistons , Did everything made a tool to hold the
cam chain , nothing , Sorry for the misunderstanding , Do you know what I
am doing wrong
first viewer!! hu hu
Hey Chris – So the Cam chain tensioner replacement on the left side of my
R1150GS went like butter – thanks to you. I am looking at teh right side,
and imagine I need to drain the oil before changing this one – am I
correct? – Thanks in advance.
Thank you.
Hi, So you need to remove the cylinder head and to do that you need to
remove the bolt that holds the cam chain sprocket on, correct? That is
easy. Transmission in first gear, Apply pressure to the rear brake pedal
and break the cam sprocket bolt free. Then, before you remove the sprocket,
run a wire through one of the small holes in the sprocket and over the
chain. Twist the wire and then remove the sprocket from the camshaft. See
my video titled BMW Service – Cylinder Head Removal Part 4 of 8
Thank you, Chris. Looking (from a great distance) at attempting BMW’s
Revision 11 037 88 (2289) re lash gear noise and mod’ing the output shaft.
Really appreciate your videos.
Hi, thanks.
Thanks Chris, I’m following your videos – great videos, bu the way. Just
love my beemer and you helped me to “understand” this fucking german engine
😉 thanks again!
You will! 🙂
I don’t work on K1200’s much but I’ll film (as much as time allows)
whatever we get into the shop. I recommend Shell Rotella for all diesel
engines. For gasoline engines I use the proper Spectro 4 non-synthetic
which was formulated specifically for BMW many years ago.
Excellent! I’m glad I was able to assist. If you ever need to remove it
make sure you see my video about re-installing the cam chain tensioner.
Good luck.
Thanks! The bastard leaked after a few miles too so as I said in the
video… CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN the surface. When you think it is clean, clean
it some more. Then test ride it for 10 miles.
Great video. I’m looking into getting a used motorcycle soon and was
considering the R1150RT. This tensioner removal and replacement seems easy
enough. If I do purchase one, I’ll probably be interested in one of your
modified clutch discs. Thanks again.
If you remove the cylinder I will help you from there.
Is there a way to tell from looking on the outside if your bike has the
upgrade? Thanks Greg
Dear Chris can you please show some 02-05 K engine repairs? do you
recommend Shell Rotella T6 on 04 K series engines? Thank you Chris
I have to add some humor to this shit, right?!
No shortage of glaciers around here!!
Is there a chance of breaking the chain , or the chail slide We had put
alot of force on that bolt already ,
The clatter that you hear from a K bike is not the cam chain. It is the
gear clusters at the rear of the engine in front of the transmission. The
crankshaft idler gear driving the clutch reduction shaft, starter gear,
alternator gear, etc. There are plenty of K100s running around with
200,000+ miles and original timing chain rails. Listen closely and I’ll bet
you’ll find that your noise is at the back of the engine. Thanks, Chris
LoL………..Fucking Ace Video
Does the engine need to be at TDC or any special position?
No, you need both parts and a new crush seal. You didn’t think BMW would
let you off that easy did you?!
Chris, Next time you do a K bike’s cam chain please post a video. So damned
tired of that clatter…
The R1150RT is a great bike once you resolve the clutch issue and are aware
that the rear drive and servo-brakes might need attention later on. Good
luck in your search for a new ride.
Thanks for this video. I’ve got the parts to do mine. Just have to wait
until the glacier melts out of the driveway. Roy 2002 R1150R
THANKS CHRIS. JUST DID MY R850R AND WITHOUT SWEARING AND HEAVY BREATHING.
IT TOOK JUST 20 MINS. EVERYTHING WENT EXCEPTIONALLY WELL, THANKS TO YOUR
GUIDANCE
You are quite welcome 🙂
Likely that you upper left chain rail is broken. Unfortunately, you’ll need
to dig deeper to verify the problem.
Thanks & Yes, they are the same for all Oilhead & Chromehead models.
Thanks!
Chris, your videos are the best! Will the part #’s you listed work for my
2000 r1150gs? Thanks
so, you, Harris dont like the BMW ?