How to replace leaking pushrod tube seals on a 1970 – 1995 BMW Airhead engine.
BMW Service – BMW R100 Pushrod Tube Seal Replacement Part 1 of 3
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How to replace leaking pushrod tube seals on a 1970 – 1995 BMW Airhead engine.
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It is a shame,you could be a good mechanic if you put your foul mouth to
better use.
Great video Chris. I have an 81 R65 and need to replace pushrod tube seals.
I don’t have any tools so I’ll probably take it to a mechanic. Any idea how
much I’ll have to pay? Thanks!
Much cooler than any of the which Glock pistol is best vids.
Hi Chris, your videos are great, definitely helped me be confident with
doing these type of repairs. I’ve got a ’70 R75/5 with cylinder heads stuck
to their bases. Have tried separating using a tire iron wrapped in rubber
and hammered pretty forcefully in-between the fins. Already broke a chunk
of fin. All 6 nuts removed. Any ideas?
Chris gets extra points for the classic Black Sabbath playing in the
background.
All of these videos are great but the cussing gets old real quick its just
not needed.
Thanks for the vids Chris! Bought a 79 R65 a few years back and love
working on it. It had less than 20k on it when I got it so you can é aging
I’ve been replacing everything rubber and my push rod seals are scheduled
for this winter! Haven’t done it yet because the weather out here in Ca has
been warm. And don’t stop cussin to get the point across it’s how us
airheads learn best!
Great video Chris. I’m looking at buying a 78 R65 as a project bike and
this is one of the jobs that needs doing so I’m looking forward to the next
parts.
Hey Chris it’s here. The bike is actually a R45 but fitted with 650 barrels
etc, It’s been off to road for the last 5 years so lots to do and your
videos will be of great help while I spend the Scottish winter in the
workshop with the beemer. First things finish off the front brakes that the
previous guy started and fucked up. At least I’ve got the master cylinder
back together the correct way now so time to bleed. Pain in the arse job as
the system is empty which always takes ages. Any tips?
Standard grease. Pistons: You could remove the pistons and gently wire
brush the piston tops or place the piston in an ultrasonic cleaner. The
piston would not be replaced until it is worn out (too small for the bore)
or the ring grooves become excessive.
alcohol is your friend hahaha my friend…..
All I can say is AMAZING, amazing that you tool the time to share these
videos. Many Thanks. I have a couple of questions, I thought I’d ask here
since i know how fond you are of the telephone.;) What kind of grease did
you use to keep the stud o-rings in place, and I suppose because you didn’t
address it, there wasn’t any need to clean the top of that piston? at what
point do you clean it, and how? Also, at what point would you replace it?
Thanks again for the great tutorials and insight.
Best to keep the master at the highest point and the bleeder the lowest.
Repeated sharp ‘taps’ against the brake lever should produce bubbles in the
reservoir indicating that air is still trapped but coming out. Be patient
and once the bubbles stop you can proceed to the caliper bleeder and finish
up there.
Chris, Simply excellent instruction and guidance. Thanks very much. Go
Airheads!
Thank you Kevin!
Let me know what you need and I’ll try to make a video. Best of luck
purchasing your future R65 🙂
Thanks Chris. You were right and patience paid off but I took ages at it
before twigging it was the design of the master cylinder that was trapping
the air. I ended up brimming the reservoir, refitting the cap, removing
from the bars and turning the whole assembly upside down, gave it a couple
of pumps. The air just shot down to the callipers and it bled out fine.
Bike now running. Videos on my page
Chatterbox, eh?! Obviously you do not know me. FYYFF
Thank you JC!
No sealant should be needed on the head gasket. Thanks, Chris
doing the right side this morning. found it helpful to slacken the clutch
cable and pull it out of the way of the frame and pushrod seals. Pulled out
the old head pins and tossed those out. Those old style C Clips are a F-Er
to get in. Any recommendation on how to deal with those clips?
No sealant but I did add a little grease to the small o-rings to hold them
in place. Enjoy your restoration and thank you for your question and
comment. Happy 2013, Chris
😉
Yes..use ONLY copper anti seize ..lol GREAT VIDEO as usual Chris
How much will you charge to restore a 1983 r100rt? it has 50k miles runs
good but i need fork seals done final drive done check the drive shaft and
also check the clutch
just finished replacing to pushrod seals on the left side of my 74 R90S.
Will do the right side this weekend. Your video was much help. I took a
bunch of photos to help my memory while reassembling. I was able to just
hand pinch the rockers and didnt need a clamp. I did notice some extra gray
sealant on the head gasket pushrod holes. Is it necessary to put any
sealant on a head gasket?
TThe silver shit is miserable. Use COPPER!! 🙂
We’d need to discuss the definition of ‘Restoration’ first but here are
some prices for the other items you’ve mentioned: The driveshaft on an
Airheads almost never wears out since it runs in an oil bath. Fork seals
can take 4 hours of labor. Spline lube & clutch inspection 4 – 5 hours.
Hi Chris, great video. With the O rings, is there any need for any sealant
or Hylomar between the case and the cylinder? I’m currently restoring a
1981 r100rs (26k on the odo) and the pushrod seals are next on the to do
list. Thanks Jesse
Excellent!
Patience and a face mask!
Chris I really enjoyed watching your videos. I think you are a fantastic
teacher and I look forward to learning more! Thank you for taking the time
and sharing your gift.
Here in Germany we got a term for people like you: “Dampfplauderer”