This DIY demonstrates how to replace the alternator, serpentine belt, AC belt, tensioner pulley, and idler pulley on a BMW E46 3-series. The car used in this video is a 2002 330xi/5-speed sedan.
Applications: BMW M52, M54, M56 I6 engines. E36, E46, E39, E53, E83, early E60, early E9x chassis.
Thanks to FCP Euro for sponsoring this video! http://www.fcpeuro.com/
PARTS:
Alternator (Bosch AL0703N 120Amp): 12317501690
Idler Pulley: 11287841228
Tensioner Pulley: 11281748131
Idler Pulley Protection Cap: 11281730349
Tensioner Pulley Protection Cap: 11281727159
Idler Pulley Bolt with Washer (16mm): 07119904677
Tensioner Pulley Bolt (Torx 50): 07129905534
Protection Washer (Tensioner Pulley): 11281730532
Alternator Top Bolt (16mm, longer): 07119905523
Alternator Nut (17mm): 12427565287
E39Source WEBSITE: http://www.E39Source.com
BMW M3Source: http://www.youtube.com/E65Source
BMW E46Source: https://www.youtube.com/user/E46Source
BMW Reviews: https://www.youtube.com/user/Steptronic87
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What little hand are you talking about????? I'm trying to get the fan out but it won't come out
You sound like a Tech for BMW or something.. correct me if I’m wrong
Just follow the Hayne's Manual instructions for alternator replacement:
1 – Disconnect negative earth lead.
2 – Remove alternator.
3 – Re-connect negative earth lead
[ Show picture of man disconnecting earth lead ]
Fitting is the opposite of removal.
how does the car run at 230k? how much you think the 3 series can live for? could it go to 400k?
Awesome I'm getting ready to rebuild my 540i and fcpeuro is the go to buyer. I'm getting all my stuff from them. Lifetime warranty is legit with them. Did not know it covered oil as well very nice to know that. I will definitely be changing my alternator and oil in engine and transmission.. along with the entire suspension.
So that means the previous (10 y/o) battery was ok?
There is a better video to checkout if your doing this to an auto car. Its done by the50skid. He has a more comprehensive video. I recommend watching it. He shows you to remove a hydronic fan and how to remove the alternator and it’s locking collar that wasn’t mentioned in this video.
You left out the important part that you have to tap on the bottom bolt that holds the alternator in. There’s a collar that gets pulled in and locks it into place you have to pull the bolt out a few threads and tap/hit with a hammer on the bolt to push the collar back out. You DID NOT mention this!!! It’s critical cuz people will sit there and not know why there alternator won’t come out.
Also you don’t have to remove the ac belt. You can pop off the serpentine belt and leave it there. I replaced my ac belt tho cuz it was shot and surprised it hadn’t broken yet.
I have to do this but I am with M62. Thinking if the procedure is the same and may be include for what engines is this video related to in description?
Also I have an auto and I just needed 2 things from homedepot. It was a 32mm husky wrench and the longest screwdriver they had. It worked great and now I have tools that are more useful then the fan remove tool. Once you break the rust looks you will only need a hammer and the 32mm to smack the wrench and break it loose.
I had just done mine 1 month ago… I used the50skid video. It was pretty helpful. My alternator was stuck into the block and would not move with any amount of pounding on the bolt. Guess 18 years of Chicago winter will do that. I noticed my alternator went slowly over a day. My radar was going nuts from 13.6v down to 11.6v it’s readout was jumping up and down along with the battery light coming on and off.