In this BMW DIY video Zach shows how to replace the front axles on your BMW E46 all-wheel drive. So, if your E46 makes clicking noises at slower speeds while…
BMW Axle Replacement (E-46 AWD FRONT Axle) – MillerTimeBMW – DIY 7
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Axle, Front, MillerTimeBMW, Replacement
- Categories: BMW
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Best DIY I’ve seen… I need to replace my inner and outer cv boots. I was thinking about following your diy up to 5:41 to get access to these boots. Am I on the right track?
yes!
just hit the cv axle with a drift a few times and it comes out. no snap ring on my 2004 xit
im totally stuck at the clip ring part. i can find a clip ring and i cant get teh second part of the axle out from the tranny. please redo that part of this video, totally not clear.
Axle is stuck in transmission…help?!
FCP Groton axles = made in China. Stay away…far away!
Have seen the video on this repair and after seeing all the reviews my ? is: Exactly how long does this take for the average Joe with some experience? One person said they were a BMW mechanic for 13 years and says its far more complicated than it looks? Another person gave up because of broken bolts, and others had problems with the shaft mating with the transmission during install. I want to do it myself but dont want to break any bolts or ruin the shaft trying to hammer it in ..
If one plans ahead of time and puts a few drops of motor oil on the nuts/bolts that look to be siezed say about a week ahead of time the motor oil will usually absorb in the corrosion. Getting them apart is significantly easier.
6:52 that black coiled cover over the axle I think ripped and now is leaking grease from the fat end, im not driving anymore but thats a sign it needs to be replaced right?
I’m not suggesting this way. The bolt that keeps the strut to the knuckle is badly rusted. It broke on me and ruined a long weekend for me plus I have to order a new knuckle. My suggestion is following Bentley recommendations which is simple and youre not dealing with stubborn bolts.
Do you need to replace the axle seals in the differential?
You should not, no.
DO I need to get an alignment after installing the new axle?
Just a socket set, and basic hand tools. Also you will need a large socket for the axel nut. Good luck!
@millertimebmw What all tools would I need to do this? My local store said I need an axle puller but I didn’t see one in this video?
Great video, very helpful. When you went to install the new axle, did you have to use a slide hammer to get it all the way in? I don’t want to force it in and ruin the new axle or the transmission. It’s jamming up about an inch and 1/2 from seating flush.
Zach,
great video series….
I gotta know how those FCP Groton axles held up after 3 yrs. were these DSS or EMPI axles? I’ve got to replace mine but there are many choices available and can’t decide on which brand to go with.
thanks and keep the vids coming.
Thank you, your video helped us a lot when swapping axles. Drives very smooth now.
It it just holds the axel side to side. It’s a bit tougher to pull the axel than it looks.
Yes, I reused the old clip ring.
I have an E46 330i and the only performance item I have is the Signature Motoring performance CAI for about $160. The performance kit adds around 13.5HP on the dyno, sounds freaking great, and installs in under 30 minutes. Highly recommended.
-13.5 HP increase
-Lifetime filter
-SOUND AWESOME
-30 min. install time
Aside from the power gain, the SOUND is amazing at higher RPM but sounds normal in regular driving.
I’m thinking about added high-flow exhaust next.
I can’t get my head around this, I saw you video but what’s the use of the clip ring of you can drag the axle out + back in with the clip ring mounted?
did you reuse the old clip ring and how did you let the axle to lock into the diff?
Hello Steve,
I would use a chisel (wear glasses!) and the nut is a multi-point socket ( I believe 32mm ) I could check if you would like.
Good luck,
Zach
One of my axle nuts is really in there. One tab I was able to pry off and the other is completely lodged. Any recommendations on how to get that tab off I it’s too jammed in there to use a chisel? Also what tool are you using to remove the nut after you get those tabs off? Thanks!
Wow. Excellent excellent DIY..!! Keep uploading videos
i really wish i was mechanically advanced enough to do this to my 330xi, because the dealer wants $750 for parts and labor to replace my cv joints.
sadly im just not comfortable enough for a repair of this size.
This would be the rotors and or the control arms going bad.
Thanks but this repair was long done. Except the axle from FCPgrotan, the boot on the axle is already torn only after 2k miles and I drive very easy and dont do many U turns. Not cool. The passenger side I got from them 10k miles ago is still holding up.
I get the same thing. When i’m in the highway and press the breaks it shakes a lot. when I’m doing a decent speed (45 to 55 mph) . Does that have anything to do with the Axles or the Rotors (break discs). I really appreciate your answer
the socket is easy to get and the smacking of the tie rod would work, just make sure you have the nut on the top as not to deform the threads. Good luck!
4 one for each wheel!
How many AXLEs does a e46 has? I’ve seen front, rear, side. Can you please help me out here
Can anyone tell me what the torque specs are for each step here? I’ve got the Haynes manual but can’t decipher which spec goes for each step.
You are slow,using a 1/2 impact wrench will make much faster.I was taught to smack the side of the knuck with a BFH a few times with a BFH and will come off.I never use the puller or the pickle fork.Pickle Forks tend to destroy boots.Tighten the axle nut with an impact,you can’t overtighten it with no damage to the wheel bearing.
yeah they really messed up on that crappy 18mm bolt. i hear its a common bolt that breaks. well just compared to the japanese bolts im use to working on, the head of the german bolts is kinda short. just have to be careful with some of them sometimes. especially in the door panels.. those window regulators.. forget about it. shortest headed bolts I’ve seen. they want everything to be flat
millertimebmw and CrashBandikoot7:
You can hammer the steering knuckle beside the tie rod end until the end falls out (if you so desire). It wont damage the tie rod end at all and only mars us the steering knuckle a tiny bit. I do recommend the proper puller.
I didn’t have any problem with my sockets holding onto the bolt heads; I thought they were standard/sufficient. I did; however, break the same bolts that you did.
I broke the bolt on the knuckle that clamps the lower portion of the strut in place. Then, just as I had expected, I broke the same bolt on the other side. I think this is and will be a problem for the E46. I bought two new bolts from BMW and they were an updated part number from the original (does this indicate there was a problem with the original? I think so). So I drilled out the broken bolts, cleaned the threads with my tap and was able to finish the job without any other problems. Thanks!
Thanks for the tutorial. It was helpful for getting my axles changed. My swap didn’t go nearly as easily as your video suggests. I had all the tools I needed to do the job except for the axle nut socket. The local auto stores were unable to help, the best they could sell me is a 32mm 6pt socket (not gonna do the job). I bought it from Snap-on; it’s a 36mm 12pt socket. Except for the 24degree temperature, the job was going well until . . .
Thanks.. But I had to call it quits on this axle job unfortunatly. How is it that your 18mm strut bolt came off in one peice? Not only did mine not wanna come off after plenty of hammering, torching, and rust eater, it ending up snapping on my final try. Head of the bolt came clean off. Nice job BMW. I also dont like how they use such short heads on their bolts. You really have to be careful with your socket or it slips off and keeps stripping away at the head of the bolt.
If you are replacing the tie rod you can, I would not suggest doing this if you intend on reusing the tie rod.
Zach
Thanks alot for this buddy. 2 quick questions, 1)would I be able to purchase this 12 point socket at an Autozone or something? Or is it a special tool for these cars, and also 2)cant you just hammer the old tie-rod out from the top carefully without needing the puller? Dont think I can get my hands on one for free, and too lazy to buy one. Thanks millertime
@millertimebmw. I actually raised the floor jacks a little more to get more leverage then I used a pry bar and a hammer to get it out. I actually went to my local BMW dealer and snuck into the shop and talked to mechanic. He said that was how they do it.
Did you just crack the pry bar on the back of the axle to get out ?
Good Job !