This video will help you remove your faded headlight lenses and replace them with new clear lenses. Since you also must remove the headlight washer nozzles (…
This video will help you remove your faded headlight lenses and replace them with new clear lenses. Since you also must remove the headlight washer nozzles (…
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A very helpful video you should post how to remove front bumper too
I appreciate your work and posting this video.The issue I’m having though, is the washer motor(pump)came out of place after install.Not sure if I broke something.I can reach it with my hand without taking anything else apart ,but I dont understand how it’s supposed to mount in that housing.No matter what I try ,it still wiggles in there, so my whole washer system is loose.If you could explain to me how it mounts in there , I would appreciate it.I would like to know if it’s push in clips or twist
there are 2 on the bottom as well as the top. i thought i showed those in the video.
the next guy will be me 😉 yes i could have done this, just didn’t have any handy at the time. i would get something specifically for electrical connections as you don’t want anything that is conductive.
you can also protect it with cloth, and…if you do scratch it…so what. it’s the top of the lenses, light doesnt shine anywhere except the front and all edges of the lense where you would grab are completely covered when the light assembly is reinstalled into the car.
i don’t agree, the housing tabs are plastic on the top and are part of the lense housing and the bottom ones slide onto a plastic mount that holds the headlight washer assembly. too much pressure (and alot is needed to properly seat the new lenses) could probably snap one making your entire housing worthless and they are WAY more expensive to replace. Also, the lense is very flexible still if new, so using pliers to grab the lip..i dont see an issue with.
yes this ‘could’ work, but mine had some condensation in the lense, plus i am of the school that it’s better to replace all seals, gaskets, etc when doing a job if you want to do it right. but, that said…if you have zero condensation issues yes it probably would be ok. but the gaskets are not expensive. better safe than sorry.
I can’t say i agree here. Too little space to really get to all four, once all screws are removed it slides forward a good 6-8 inches allowing EASY removal of all 4 plugs. Then you have the lens out and have full access to all clips for the body molding (the center connector is easily broken if you dont press the clip inwards and just pull on it like you would have to if it was still mounted)
What happened to the bottom two (2) headlight mounting screws ??? My 2005 has a total of 4 screws….2 on the top and 2 on the bottom. The bottom 2 are reached in the gap between the headlight housing and the bumper. You only removed the top 2 ??
Electrical cleaner is good for the electrical connectors, but also take a q-tip sprayed with silicone spray and wipe all the surfaces where the connector sealing rubbers make contact with the connector. This lets the rubber slide and seal when you push them back in place. Also this allows easy removal the next time you….or the next guy…..is doing this job.
Instead of using pliers to seat the headlight gasket and possibly cracking the new cover…… install the cover AFTER re-installing the headlight assembly. This way you can push on the cover with overall (softer) pressure to seat the cover.
Fwiw……..and saving $50–$100 in headlight plastic cover seals, if they are still in good condition. Remove the seals and wash them in mild soapy water then wipe them down with dry cloth and let dry……or blow dry them with compressed air.
Mine are 6 yrs old and still in perfect condition.
Great vid…..but it’s tons easier to remove all the plastic covers, shrouds and electrical connectors before you remove the healight housing assembly as the housing is still held in position by the screws. Then just remove the housing screws and remove the housing.