How to remove the drivers door trim on an E90 series, showing the plug connections and trim clips. PLEASE NOTE I NO LONGER DO REQUESTS AS I DONT WORK FOR BMW…
BMW 3 Series E90 Door Trim Sedan Front How to DIY: BMTroubleU
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i havent tried them all by any means, so i cant vouch for all brands. mine
are BAHCO and work really well. i bought from Toolforce tool truck.
And the second question 😀 – Is the procedure for removing the rear door
trim the same as the front? Remove (in my case) silver trim > remove torx >
jerk the panel of?
As you seem to know your way around these cars I have two questions I’d be
happy if you could shed som light on! – I have a rattle somewhere around
the rear passenger side of my E90 LCI. It only rattles when that wheel goes
over an edge or a pothole etc. If I shake the door I can hear *something*.
Is there anything inside the rear door that can make noises? It sounds
like… If you imagine some larger cable hitting against something. Is
there anything in the rear door that can come loose?
its not exactly the same but quite similar. dont pull too hard if it seems
like its still held on by something and make sure to use plastic trim
removal tools. its likely that either the window switch cable or the puddle
light wiring could be making this noise- once you take off the trim you
should be able to shake the door again and get a good visual on whats
rattling. theres nothing common to this model, but you’ll figure it out
I have a 2006 760Li V12 and a 2003 745i, I would like to know if you know
torque specs for the front end suspension components, and the brake
mounting caliper? Is there also any sure fire trick to fixing the audio
problems associated with these vehicles?
thanks mate. door locks can be awkward but as long as you have a bright
light and T30 torx bits (i think) you should be right. only three torx
bolts, one electrical plug and from memory there arent any adjustments on
the rods like in other more basic cars. also make sure youve got the glass
out of the orad by either keeping it up or totally removing and door locks
need to be replaced in pairs (front left and right at the same time)
otherwise you’ll get the same issue reoccurring
Hi, I bought used E90 2010/10 model and over night drivers window opened
during night. I washed it earlier that day, so I suspect that this happened
because of water coming into module that controls window. Can you maybe
suggest what module should I check for possible leakege? And if you know
correct term for that module so I can search it and take a look how it
looks. Thank you!
thats a weird one, sure you dont have kids or a wife who was just mucking
round with it? if it is the control module it would be extremely uncommon,
i would first unplug the switch block overnight and see if that does it and
make sure it happens regularly enough, not just a once off. the unit which
controls it is usually the JBE junction box electrics but get a fault code
read out and update the vehicle software at the dealership before replacing
anything.
Cheers fella really helped
no probs remy.
No, I’m sure, the key was in safe place and for now I don’t have kids and
wife 🙂 Ok, I will test and observe if this was one time thing or not and
if I really did something that I’m not aware of. I will take all steps you
suggested. Thanks!
German crap
How to do that water will not leak through the window inside the door?)
best to go to the dealership for audio issues cause they have the
proprietary system for diagnosis and they have the PUMA system which helps
identify worldwide common issues quickly. also neil what are you attempting
to achieve by locating torque specs? whats the root problem mate?
im pretty sure water can normally get into the door in small amounts
through the window seal, as long as its not getting into the inner trim
through the black butyl or foam it drains out the bottom of the door.
well thats some pretty full on info you need neil, but all you’d have to do
is contact your nearest dealership and they’ll print you out a copy of
specs if theyre nice. but good luck translating that page into coherent
meanings cause they have some funny names for stuff sometimes. i also
appreciate your precision, but honestly if you can swing off these bolts
with a foot long 1/2 inch breaker bar they should be fine. 7 series are
very complex and i wouldnt dream of diagnosing them via message.
sorry for late response. I had to change the upper control arms/ traction
arms I believe is what it is called.The car made that horrible clunk when
driving and you hit the brakes. one side would not come out and I removed
the brake caliper bracket so i could use a small torch to heat up the ball
joint to hammer it out. so that is why I wanted to know torque specs for
brake caliper mount and the traction control arm.
yea, those ball joints can be a mofo to get out. my video on x5 cv shaft
replacement shows the tool the dealerships use and sometimes you need a
sledge hammer on top of that. oxy torch is also good, but we didnt have one
at bmw. but yea like i was saying swing off it with a half inch breaker bar
and she’ll be apples
do you recommend a specific brand of nylon tool to do this job or will the
cheapest do the trick?
im pretty sure water can normally get into the door in small amounts
through the window seal, as long as its not getting into the inner trim
through the black butyl or foam it drains out the bottom of the door.
Yeah, all tools wouldn’t work. Had to put a small torch on it… it seam
like forever, then wacked it till my arm almost fell off and finally it
broke free.
Thanks for the info! Great set of videos by the way. Im going to replace
the drivers door lock actuator shortly, do you have any tips or tricks for
this procedure? I have an 06 e90.