B7 Audi A4 How to Replace The Oil Filter Housing 2.0T Engine 2005-2008

B7 Audi A4 How to Replace The Oil Filter Housing 2.0T Engine 2005-2008

Step by step guide on How to Replace The Oil Filter Housing on a B7 Audi A4 with the 2.0T Engine. This will be applicable on the Audi A4’s from these years 2005-2008

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Comments

@gregpearsall3344 says:

Good information mate, well done

@Eric-jy7zj says:

Hey man I was wondering how you were able to get that coolant hose off to drain the coolant. I can’t seem to get it off even tho iv taken the metal clip off. Also I tried using the rads drain cock but when I turn the nob nothing comes out!

@fredericocorrea9814 says:

Has anyone tried the aluminum oil filter housing? Is it any good. Craftyman what are your thoughts.

@trongtanle1879 says:

God bless you, thank you so much! If i dont watching your video, i don’t know how to remove oil filter housing. Thank you so much, from VietNam!

@klssn34 says:

Fyi there is a coolant drain plug on the bottom of the radiator. It takes a bit longer but with a rubber hose you make absolutely 0 mess when draining the coolant

@wadesamuels4020 says:

Recently started watching your videos with my current a4 very helpful was able to do all the work myself just by watching your videos.
I have a question. I removed my filter to change it after installing a new oil pump because my car shows the low oil pressure light I saw a little spring and piece of black plastic come out with it left it out and test drove the car after all this work oil pressure light still comes on no noise on my engine oil pressure switch is also new I currently have my oil filter housing off wondering if this could be my oil pressure issue please let me know if this could cause oil pressure issues. Valves inside the housing is easy to press by hand in and 1 of it is abit stiff

@bradyryll119 says:

In your experience, would a bad enough Leak from the filter housing lead to a low oil pressure light

@gheorgheplesca432 says:

Bro you should do Rap

@Ace-44 says:

Would this be the same procedure for a 04' VW Passat?

@hiltonreniethsaborio says:

New subscription, you are amazing, bro thanks for you dedication.

@springlock5rr37 says:

How’d you get the connectors out of the silver bracket?

@mavseke says:

very thorough and professional. wow, never cursed or sweared. dude you need to run for president

@user-pj7zh2is6y says:

I viewed several videos and read some DIYs and this video has the most efficient repair. There are some others where they are disconnecting all sorts of stuff that I didn't need to do. A few comments on this video.

• Take a few photos or a movie of the layout — you'll forget some of the bracket orientations

• Disconnect battery (or make sure to cover alternator cable end when you disconnect it)

• Drain oil once you are sure you are going through with job. Leave plug out because you will spill coolant into oil ports and you want it to come out

• No need to pre-drain coolant — just accept that you'll lose about a gallon when you pull the cooler off.

• No need to remove line on oil cooler

• Throttle body is easy to take off if you need to — but not necessary. I didn't take it off but it might have helped with visibility.

• You might be able to work with the rigid plastic line in place — mine was a pain to remove but I got it off (and broke some locking tabs)

• A screwdriver can be used to gently tap the electrical connectors out of the bracket.

• Add a touch of grease when you slide those connectors back in that bracket

• Disconnect alternator cable

• No need to disconnect anything on coolant resevoir — just place it out of way. Clamp off hose prior to pulling oil cooler

• Where needed, cover air intakes/hoses to avoid dropping something in there.

• Take your time with the blind hex-head bolts and make sure not to strip them

• Once you have the old parts off coolant will continue to drip slowly, probably because the clamp on the reservoir hose is not perfect — you'll want to go ahead and get the new parts on to stop the dripping

• Might as well replace the oil sender as it's cheap and easy to do.

Tools you may not have

• Triple-square socket set

• Long hex sockets

• Magnet on a handle — helps grab some bolts you can barely touch

• Mirror

• Wobble extension and short hex socket (helped me with the filter housing top right bolt)

• Something to catch the coolant that is going to splash everywhere. I put some painters plastic in a low, wide cardboard box and placed my drip tray inside of that.

• Coolant is poisonous in small quantities and your dog may lap it up — be careful.

• Plenty of degreaser — may as well clean up all the gunk when you have the parts out, plus the bottom of the engine so you can make sure you've fixed the problem.
• Torque wrench. 11 ft-lb is what the housing and cooler get re-installed with.

@1996GolfHarlequin says:

Why didint you use 15 nm to bolt the bracket to the block.?

@oscarquezada895 says:

I’ve replaced it on my 2007 GLI, and it was a pain and took a couple of hours to replace.

@randylangguth7926 says:

What was the reason for the change. Oil leak or coolant?.. great video!

@stacks1548 says:

My Audi overheated and i thought it was the oil pan gasket leaking oil, but it turns out its the oil filter housing.

@dieterkievplascenciaquinte4614 says:

please cuold you repaire the steering pimp or steering blender and the hoses? I have an oil leak and i dont know how to fix it thanks mi name is dieter kiev

@quyluong1145 says:

Bravo. Well done. I wish there are mechanics in my area who are at your level. I wouldn't need to work on it myself.

@wilmotthewarrior says:

Man I have an oil leak in this location. Don't know if I have the patience to fix

@christiancallender6816 says:

Thank you kindly for this video, it was quite informative for me.

@buycarblog says:

Perfect tutorial. I completed this on my A4 B7 last weekend in about 3 hours. Two thumbs up!

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