Find All your brake parts at http://www.apdty.com In this video we’ll show you how to replace the brakes and rotors of a 2008 Audi A6.
2008 Audi A6 Front Brake pads and Rotor Replacement
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No copper grease??? Thought it was always required!!! Plz can someone clarify. Thnx
Very good, however, the step showing the removal of the caliper bracket is missing. I assume the bolts for this are obvious.
Really good video! Do you have a video for the rear brakes?
Super Jungs ihr habt mir sehr geholfen.
The video is GREAT!!!Thank you very much:)
Could you give me some advise?I’m having big headache with front left brake-whar is ist?Is it safe to drive with this issue?Do you think I could fix it myself?Sorry to bother you but I’ve checked lots of forum and still no clue…Many thanks!!
youtube.com/watch?v=jOKiPiQ3biU&feature=youtu.be
If you have the same style calipers, then everything else should be the same, Thanks!
great nice vid shows everything you do now does this work for audi a4 2007 b7 model? i have the same caliper as the one in the vid thanks =]
Lube the pins and the pad sliding areas!
Fine tips the
Yes, we only did the fronts in this video.
so this is only for fron calipers?
Thx
I would love to be a German Technician, im already a GM Technician
but then how would you clean up the caliper bracket and grease the slider bolts?
If your rotors have a large lip on them, the old pads might be getting stuck on the rotor? You may need to use a screwdriver or small pry bar to force the pads in a little bit before they will slide off the rotor.
I got as far as getting the two 7mm pins out but I can’t get the caliper off the bracket. What am I doing wrong? Help!!!
how do u think he got the carrier off??? the two 21 mm bolts
audiword.com, audiforums, etc…
Sorry but yes they do.
incorrect….no hex has to be touched
I will never understand why you wouldnt just take off the 21mm bolts first.. totally eliminates the caliper coming off in 2 pieces. All you are doing like this is wasting a lot of time, and loosening bolts that dont ever have to come off..
not a drop of brake grease used?
You do not need to worry about the parking brake system when working on the front brakes, the parking brake (hand-brake) only applies pressure to the rear brakes.
Is this something you can do yourself? What about the electronic handbrake system? You never showed how you released it?
get the next size up TX bit and smash it on with a mallet so it it stuck in there. Use a good quality bit, you dont want it breaking in there!. Spray lots of penetrating oil like GT85 or Plusgas where the bolt meets the caliper bracket.
Then after a few seconds, use a breaker bar to try and crack the bolt open. Make sure you are undoing it the right way, its easy to be mistaken if you are doing it looking at the caliper with the nut behind the caliper!
The job can be done by removing the 21mm bolts only, it just makes it more difficult to install the pads. at 2:15 in the video you can see the larger bolts, those are what hold the entire caliper/bracket assembly to the steering knuckle.
2000 A6 Quattro 4.2 dual piston caliper. 7 mm allen bolt is completely rounded all four (left and right) are exactly the same. I tried 7 mm and a T-45. Then I had 3 other guys look and there is absolutely no tooling or any evidence of it. Is it possible that I have to remove the 21 mm bolts instead? The slider “bolts” are a dead end so I have to find another way to replace the rotors. There is also a couple of torx bolts holding the outside caliper. They are bigger than a T-50. Please help!
The light should not be coming on if you still have that much brake pad life remaining. If something is wrong with the brake fluid sensor, that could cause the brake warning light to flickr, or if the level is right at the edge of the “low” line.
Just replaced my rear brakes needed bad. Have about 50% life span on front brakes. Pad warning light keeps coming on and off. Mechanic can’t get the warning light to stay off. Do you think that the light would come on when there is still 50% life left on front pads? Thanks .
One more comment. On the front you MUST remove two 21mm bolts in addition to the number 7 hex bolts in order to take off BOTH the pads and rotors. The rears do not require that you remove the carrier in order to take off the pads and rotors.
Touché! Very valid point :)
You are correct but Audi’s require a brake fluid flush every two years and when done the fluid level is filled to max so the chances of your fluid level and pad level canceling each other out is slim.
Good Point, but technically you should never have to add brake fluid to the car, they engineer the car so that when the pads get thin enough, the brake fluid level drops to a certain point and and the brake fluid level sensor will detect the fluid low, and trigger the “Brake” light on the dash, thus indicating your pads are low. the only time the car will ever lose brake fluid, is if there is a serious problem and you actually have a brake fluid leak somewhere.
Quick side note: BEFORE you press the calipers back in makes sure that you open up your brake resrvoir and wrap a towel around it or remove some fluid as doing 4 wheels will cause it to overflow if your fluid level is at max before starting.
I have a 2002 Audi A6 Avant 3.0 Quatro with 340,000 miles on it. that’s why I’m trying to learn how to fix it myself. Thanks for the video. Does this apply to my car? Also, the Tie Rods inner and outer and sleeve?
Great Video would love to learn and see more to further my A6 projects!!
You can get there directly by going to facebook. comapdty