Car Fix DIY Videos

Zombu nZEDb says:

i dunno if hearing a pop is considered a fix if there is corrosion you might just have burned through the crud and welded whatever it was to the part it's botlted to little bit of shudder or potholes can break that but i'm just guessing either way investigating it would have been the better choice

Custom Works says:

Hi Ivan I just got done painting my engine compartment and need to sand all the ground contacts, I thought I saved your video where you show a drill attachment that does this What is the name and model of this attachment ?????????????????????????? Thanks

Wind Ward says:

P/W means Power Window, so P/W TIMER = Power Window Timer, which is a power window master switch control input from the MICU. But, what kind of control is P/W TIMER circuit? My guess would be an active low, meaning windows and Sunroof operational when pulled to ground using a low side driver (or it could be relay controlled?) in the MICU. If this is the case then there should be pullups in the Window Master Switch and the Sunroof controller input. So, the first basic test would be to check the voltage on P/W TIMER circuit. Not knowing the system I would probably start with my PICOscope or my ScopeMeter, I would like to get more information than with just my DMM in case the signal is dynamic, which I doubt. If a constant DC voltage, like in the video I would disconnect the signal from the MICU and see what the default pullup voltage value is. Which I am assuming is a pullup to +12V DC (VPWR). So, without the MICU drive circuit disconnect the signal at the module inputs should go to +12V DC, and the power windows and the sunroof should be off with key off.

For this type of troubleshooting, I like to put the vehicle on life support using a DC Linear Regulated Power supply, so let's say set it to 13V DC. Which should provide enough power to the vehicle and also put a slight charge on the battery (if not completely dead). The main benefit is to put a known regulated voltage on vehicle power. So if I read +13V DC at the fuse box input, all my power feeds should be +13V DC, and by extension all of the module pullups which reference VPWR should also pullup to +13V DC. So, if I see a strange intermediate voltage I know there must be a voltage divider formed somewhere.

Let's assume the MICU has a low side driver to control the P/W TIMER circuit. Usually, the low side driver would have full diagnostics + protection against overcurrent. So, the low side switch should not get damaged with a overcurrent event (high current test light), and also the overcurrent event should store a DTC, however the MIL Light my remain off. If the low side driver circuit uses a relay (not for power but for isolation which I have seen), then an over current event could blow a fuse (protection against a +12V VPWR short, with a low side switch to ground).

For the pitted relay contacts you could measure the bad relay load side voltage drop, and then compare it to the new installed relay load side voltage drop. For a heat related delayed failure of the relay the contacts must have high resistance as compared to a new relay. But, I have seen a lot of strange relay behavior with heat. For fun you could tear apart the failing relay and see what the contacts look like under the microscope.

Wade T says:

I hate it when the phone rings at an important time lol 9:16

Senan Foutchedjev says:

Acura, yeah, its been sitting for a while, hence not being taken care of with all these issues. Due to the fact its been sitting, all of these issues has occurred at once as it has been sitting. Thanks Ivan, fantastic episode.

dustcommander100 says:

That was a lot of troubleshooting! You really hung in there to get thru all that….