In today’s video I show you how I fixed a P0327 on a 2003 Infiniti G35.This process will apply to all vq35 engines such as the Nissan 350z, Infiniti G35, Infiniti Fx35, Nissan Altima, Nissan Maxima & All vehicles with a Vq35 Engine. Essentially what I did was fix a weak connection in the wiring harness and that fixed my issue. I strongly suggest to check the connection to and from the knock sensor since this could all cause a check engine light. If you dont see any frayed wires I would replace the knock sensor harness all together. If you found this video entertaining please hit the like button! I hope everyone has an awesome day and I will see you all In the next video!
If you wish to contact me for any reason you may do so at my email earaujorojas@gmail.com.
Follow me on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter to get sneak peaks of upcoming videos!
IG | https://www.instagram.com/ericsdiygarage/?hl=en
Twitter | @ERICSDIYGARAGE https://twitter.com/ERICSDIYGARAGE?s=09
Facebook | https://www.facebook.com/erics.diygarage
Intro Music
Karn Beats
Free Bazzi x Frank ocean guitar melody type beat 2018
THIS VIDEO IS FOR ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY, DO AT YOUR OWN RISK!
Some exciting things are coming soon!Notification Squad you guys are the best!
Do you know if changing the knock sensor will help the car shifting I’m experiencing early shifting around 5500 rpm on auto I heard changing it restores shifts it’s not shifting all the way till 6000 like it should
Other than your engine light coming on, what symptoms did you guys get? My idle was too low.. my mechanic got that code today as well as lean fuel.
A month or so ago he cleaned my throttlebody and that fixed the low idle issue but after two weeks it came back.
Has anyone figured out what tab to push down on to get the wire out from the plastic connector??
Had the same issue with mine, and my cylinder 2 fuel rail wire was frayed. Currently working on it right now
I'll be trying thin in the morning when the car cools down cuz I got that code today
Bro I’m stuck at 5:00, I can’t figure out where to put the pick (awl) to release the wires. Please help I’ve been at this for a while
I bought this from nissan 24079-CD000 this from mazda PE01-18-921 and got the old knock sensor out and new one in from the front and back of the engine.I used a universal joint socket attachment and a $50 borescope off amazon. Nissan wanted $400 for the same knock sensor mazda had oem for $34Get the harness from nissan, its better quality than appty or whoever https://i.imgur.com/0hPJXZX.jpg
What exact sensor and wire harness did you use? I need one for my car but there is alot of options that vary in price. I just want one that will work properly and isn't gonna cost me alot.
Why gear no selection
I think i have rod knock but im not throwing a sencor when i start the car up it knocks and then quiets down at idle but if i rev up the engine to 2 rpms it will knock what do u think this is? Do u think its a spun bearing, or something else
What about a knock sensor for P11?
The knock sensor is a piezoelectric device that creates its own voltage. The problem with the broken wire is that the ECU is NOT seeing that voltage. A short between the wires/cutting the wires is the same thing. There will be no voltage going back to the ECU. You'd do better to connect a knock sensor that attached to a bracket mounted on the engine & connect to the orange connector for the ECU to see some voltage (if the knock sensor vibrates too much it would see too high a voltage)
All I see is p0327 when mines 28 same thing or completely different?
wish you showed how you reconnected the wires and what extra wires you used to replace the old one in the baby blue colored connector.
Did you only use electrical tape when you reconnected it?
So under passenger or driver side?
New sub here keep up good work