Volvo Strut Replacement (850 Front Struts, Mounts, Spring Seats & Suspension Parts) FCP Euro

Volvo Strut Replacement (850 Front Struts, Mounts, Spring Seats & Suspension Parts) FCP Euro

http://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/ ▻ Ben McNally is here to walk you through a complete front strut assembly upgrade on a 1996 Volvo 850 Turbo using Koni st…

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Volvo940man says:

Dear Ben,

Just ran thru this after studying the video, overall these vids are great, but on this one you need to clearly state that the star nut really needs to be torqued down (50 – 60 lb ft, I think). I tapped it real tight using a drift/hammer like you did and it loosened up in 1000 miles, which leads to clunks. Best way to get it for std struts is to make an notched socket and give it a hit or 2 with the impact gun. Thanks.

Maurice Williams says:

Dear Ben,

I think you have just sorted out my vibration issue I have been suffering for months I noticed that my cross bolt is not screwed all the way to the end hence my bush at the top actually has a gap between itself and the suspension bush.
thanks.

FCP Euro says:

Yes, Basically the same procedure.

Brien Morrissey says:

Did you forget to fix the rubber boot to the bottom of the strut?

surfercalaveralfc says:

Hi, is the procedure shown here the same on the P2 chassis? 04 XC70? If not, I would really like see you guys do one. My XC70 needs a front suspension overhaul.

FitnessEX says:

This is an ingenious solution to a very poor design of ProForm end caps. Treadmill Doctor should be commended for coming up with a great, yet simple engineering solution that saved me having to scrap my ProForm treadmill. It’s worth every penny and very easy to install. Thanks!
here is the link to it in case anyone is interested:amzn.to1eBjSlS

James M says:

Hey Ben,

Thinking about doing this replacement on my 97 Volvo 850 and my GFs 2001 Volvo S80.
One Question. I don’t have a spring compressor. Any other way to do this without it?

Thanks man,
J

James M says:

Hey Ben,’

Thinking about doing this replacement on my 97 Volvo 850 and my GFs 2001 Volvo S80.
One Question. I don’t have a spring compressor. Any other way to do this without it?

Thanks man,
J

James M says:

Hey Ben,’

Thinking about doing this replacement on my 97 Volvo 850 and my GFs 2001 Volvo S80.
One Question. I don’t have a spring compressor. Any other way to do this without it?

Thanks man,
J

James M says:

Hey Ben,’

Thinking about doing this replacement on my 97 Volvo 850 and my GFs 2001 Volvo S80.
One Question. I don’t have a spring compressor. Any other way to do this without it?

Thanks man,
J

James M says:

Hey Ben,’

Thinking about doing this replacement on my 97 Volvo 850 and my GFs 2001 Volvo S80.
One Question. I don’t have a spring compressor. Any other way to do this without it?

Thanks man,
J

FCP Euro says:

Is your replacement part an OEM part? If so consider replacing it just as you took it off the car. If it’s not OEM, you’ll want to follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for installing it, either with or without the rubber ring. Hope that helps.

Bjorn Candell says:

Answer on your previous question. Part no. Skandix 1031280 and Volvo must be
9157705

Bjorn Candell says:

Hi Ben.
Many discussions in Swedish Volvo forums if you should buy this piece of rubber that they use and put between the bottom of the spring and the Metall plate part of the strut/shock. It is used on V70 as of 2005 that I know perhaps even earlier, but not on 850/V70 1992-1999.

FCP Euro says:

Interesting, do you have a part number?

Bjorn Candell says:

Hi Ben, waiting to tighten it unitl I get the special 1/2 Nut that fits my torque wrench.
Question,
My supplier in Germany skandix.de sold me a rubber ring to put on top of the spring seat, then the strut bearing comes on top.
It was no rubber ring fitted from the factory, a bit afraid to use/add parts that were not used from the factory…. ? What do you think?

FCP Euro says:

You’ll want to tighten it down to 51.6 ft. lbs or 70 Nm, hope that answers your question.

Bjorn Candell says:

Hi Ben, I am half way into this job, no problem to get the struts out etc. A bit scary with the spring compressors…
One question, how tight or how far down shall I tighten the cross nut? all the way to the bottom on the threads of the piston bar of the shock or ? In the Video you just tight it down a bit and I wonder if this is critical?

FCP Euro says:

It sounds like you’re riding pretty loose, which can be very dangerous, check your torque values and get those guys nice and tight.

aechap says:

Hi FCP
I recently did the job but now the front strut on the passengers side is making noise. Taking a look I can see the washer that sits on top of the strut is loose and I can spin it by hand freely, it also pops up when I push down on the car. How do I proceed? Shall I try to tighten the strut top nut ? Should I try to tighten the cross nut too? My feeling is I didn’t tigthen them both as much as I should.

FCP Euro says:

If they’re not chipped, broken, or rusty there probably isn’t a reason to replace them, but if you’re project is a full renovation you may want to consider it. If they’re in good condition you’re likely pretty safe re-using them.

Bjorn Candell says:

One last question, what is your take on changing the springs? Many Volvo garages even say that they do not change them on a petrol car unless they are very rusty or starting to crack, still if feels like I should throw in a new pair on my 16 year old V70 renovation project, I mean when you have demounted all anyway or is it a waste of money?

FCP Euro says:

Well, you don’t want to jump on it, but using your weight to give yourself some room, a little patience and some gentle persuasion should help you get that assembly out.

Bjorn Candell says:

Could I not damage the drive shaft by stepping on the control arm with my 250 lbs? Could it not make it go loose?

FCP Euro says:

It can be hard to get out, sometimes the tension of the control arm can force the strut assembly into place. Don’t be afraid to step on the control arm to help give you some room.

Bjorn Candell says:

Hi Ben,

before I start this work, a friend of mine did this work on his S80 2002 D5 Diesel, he had trouble to get the strut out, he says that it was not much room because it gets stuck between the control arm and the top of the “wheel house”, he said he had to squeeze the control arm downwards but it was hard to do own his own, in the video it looks like twist it all to the right somehow, can it be hard to get it out? Or is he wrong somehow?

FCP Euro says:

No need to disconnect the battery but it doesn’t hurt. Just make sure the key is off. Hope that helps.

FCP Euro says:

Sorry, no video on that one yet, but keep an eye up, we upload new videos all the time.

Bjorn Candell says:

Hi Ben,

any DIY video on how to change rear springs, I have seen the shock guide for the rear,
but what about if you need to change the springs like I do now on my V70 1997 GLT

Eric Edmonds says:

I’m about to replace my s60r ftont struts. Im just curious about the 4c connector on the strut. Do I disconnect the battery b4 I remove them or does it matter. I don’t have any messages on the dash but 8 do n know one leaks fluid which is why I’m changing them.

FCP Euro says:

We used a 21mm socket to remove the nut on the top.

Eric Edmonds says:

what socket is needed to remove the nut on the strut shaft ( the big one) not the 3 smaller ones?

NChoy says:

Love the DIY videos… keep up the good work FCP!

Win Ross says:

excellent video was great to just have it on my phone sitting next to me so I could refer to it as I went a long. So much better than any shop manual I had Chilton or Haynes.

Odon Mercado says:

I replaced mines on my Volvo 850 but when I drive they still feel weird a little bouncy and hard. and my car sits kinda low

elsydeon666 says:

although it is in later videos, if you are going to do suspension, do yourself a favor and do it all at once, less dis/reassembly needed

also spring compressors are really fucking important, getting a hole punched through your chest by a flying strut is not fun

mattgreg says:

Great video…very helpful. thank you!

Fred Patton says:

Very helpful, thanks, as was the all-inclusive FCP front suspension kit. I just finished upgrading the strut assembly on my XC70 and it works great! Now, on to the control arms…

hausm3ister says:

thanks for making these videos, very interesting and very helpful indeed!

Dan Shiels says:

Great work. This video is hugely helpful.

65Gertrude says:

this is a great video. however, i have several comments: are the fastening nuts/bolts torqued to specific ft./lbs specs? and before releasing the three bolts holding the strut tower to the top of the wheel well, should you not mark the tower’s orientation? if not, you’ll need to realign the front end. at least, this needs to be done on a 240 or 740. thanks FCP.

slimflex1 says:

beautiful . thanks FCP. you guys are the best.no doubt 

futureboycolin says:

WANT. ORANGE.  STRUTS… drool…

Korruptionen says:

I have those rotors on my VR. 302’s FTW. Thanks FCP!

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