Great video, here are a couple of tips for all T6 with GM 4t65 transmission. The transmission holds 12 liters oil total, when dropping the pan you only drain about 6.5 liters, the rest is stuck in the torque converter. Without flushing, which should be avoided due to age and condition, it's a good idea to drain and fill a few times. If you have factory metal lined gasket, it can be reused but depends on condition of course. Most new replacement gaskets are much lower quality and just cloth. The transmission takes Dextron 3 by default, as it is 2003 GM. Can be replaced with generic Dex 4 or better. Do compare part numbers with the fluid you're changing. It is a good idea to wear gloves when changing the oil, as it should be done when the oil is still warm.
And eye protection of course, when under the vehicle all kinds of debris starts flying. Ideally, transmission oil should be changed every 50k km (31k miles) simply because the transmission tends to run really hot, as the cooling loop through radiator is rather short.
And you can save money by buying a filter for the 4t65 transmission instead of Volvo original. Also, avoid using power tools to take off or put on the oil pan, torque requirements for the bolts are very low and can be taken off with one hand usually. I just changed the first drain/fill on my 2003 S80 with 202k km (125k miles) so my experience is quite fresh. I'm planning to do at least one more drain/fill (probably will do 2 more as I bought an extra 4.73l jug) and replace the filter on the final drain/fill. The transmission shifts smoother already, especially from 1st to 2nd, no more hangs until 2.5k rpm
After changing the oil: 1. It's a good idea to pull the dipstick after filling to let any excess air bubbles to escape. 2. Run through all the gears with a 10-15 seconds interval while having your foot on the brake. P->R->N-D->1->2->3 and the in reverse, 3->2->1->D->N->R->P(This will allow oil to circulate and push air out if there's any) . 3. Allow the vehicle to warm up to the operating temp (basically middle of the temp gauge) Do it a few times to be safe. While in the process, it's a good idea to have a clean piece of cardboard/cloth under the vehicle to inspect for leaks. After a short drive, park the vehicle running and cycle through the gears again to get the correct reading on the dipstick. Add more fluid if necessary to get to the low hot mark, keep in mind that transmission fluid expands when warm, so you want to add a little less to get to the correct mid mark on the stick.
And that about does it, if rough shifting/slipping persists after oil change, there may be damage to the transmission and that's a whole different story.
Good luck! May your gears never slip, and overdrive engage correctly, downshifts ever smooth.
At least you had luck with yours , whoever owned my car before I did must've waited too long to have the filter replaced. I got it to last 4 years , I'm getting mine rebuilt (The car has been great to me ,so yes it's worth it.) Also Felpro makes a gasket for that pan , it's much better than the one that comes with the filter.
It’s a shame Volvo asserted that the transmission fluid never needed to be changed (except under severe driving conditions). These cars would have lasted years longer if the transmissions were properly maintained.
Dorman makes a replacement transmission pan that has an oil drain plug. From what you showed us, it seems best to drop the pan and thoroughly clean it along with the magnet anyway.
Ah yes the twin turbo 6 cylinder model. That's a modified version of a gm 4t65e transmission. Pretty notorious for failure. They don't hold up very well to twin turbo bitch slaps. Lol
This is the only drivetrain on this era Volvo that has a transmission pan that can be removed from the bottom in this fashion. The rest of the cars from this time were equipped with a few variations of the Aisin AW55 which simply had a drain plug instead. The transmission filter is not serviceable without removing the transmission and splitting the main case. A little later down the line they started using the Aisin TF80 which has a weird two piece drain plug.
DAMN look that mileage and it shifts like a dream!. thanks for the video. im gonna do this to my 2004 xc90 (same engine same transmission) it drives fine for a while then it starts slipping. i dont think the filter has ever been replaced and tranny fluid is super dirty but not burnt. Do you know off the top of your head what transmission fluid you used? thank you
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Great video, here are a couple of tips for all T6 with GM 4t65 transmission.
The transmission holds 12 liters oil total, when dropping the pan you only drain about 6.5 liters, the rest is stuck in the torque converter. Without flushing, which should be avoided due to age and condition, it's a good idea to drain and fill a few times.
If you have factory metal lined gasket, it can be reused but depends on condition of course. Most new replacement gaskets are much lower quality and just cloth.
The transmission takes Dextron 3 by default, as it is 2003 GM. Can be replaced with generic Dex 4 or better. Do compare part numbers with the fluid you're changing.
It is a good idea to wear gloves when changing the oil, as it should be done when the oil is still warm.
And eye protection of course, when under the vehicle all kinds of debris starts flying.
Ideally, transmission oil should be changed every 50k km (31k miles) simply because the transmission tends to run really hot, as the cooling loop through radiator is rather short.
And you can save money by buying a filter for the 4t65 transmission instead of Volvo original.
Also, avoid using power tools to take off or put on the oil pan, torque requirements for the bolts are very low and can be taken off with one hand usually.
I just changed the first drain/fill on my 2003 S80 with 202k km (125k miles) so my experience is quite fresh.
I'm planning to do at least one more drain/fill (probably will do 2 more as I bought an extra 4.73l jug) and replace the filter on the final drain/fill.
The transmission shifts smoother already, especially from 1st to 2nd, no more hangs until 2.5k rpm
After changing the oil:
1. It's a good idea to pull the dipstick after filling to let any excess air bubbles to escape.
2. Run through all the gears with a 10-15 seconds interval while having your foot on the brake. P->R->N-D->1->2->3 and the in reverse, 3->2->1->D->N->R->P(This will allow oil to circulate and push air out if there's any) .
3. Allow the vehicle to warm up to the operating temp (basically middle of the temp gauge)
Do it a few times to be safe.
While in the process, it's a good idea to have a clean piece of cardboard/cloth under the vehicle to inspect for leaks.
After a short drive, park the vehicle running and cycle through the gears again to get the correct reading on the dipstick. Add more fluid if necessary to get to the low hot mark, keep in mind that transmission fluid expands when warm, so you want to add a little less to get to the correct mid mark on the stick.
And that about does it, if rough shifting/slipping persists after oil change, there may be damage to the transmission and that's a whole different story.
Good luck! May your gears never slip, and overdrive engage correctly, downshifts ever smooth.
At least you had luck with yours , whoever owned my car before I did must've waited too long to have the filter replaced.
I got it to last 4 years , I'm getting mine rebuilt (The car has been great to me ,so yes it's worth it.) Also Felpro makes a gasket for that pan , it's much better than the one that comes with the filter.
It’s a shame Volvo asserted that the transmission fluid never needed to be changed (except under severe driving conditions). These cars would have lasted years longer if the transmissions were properly maintained.
Dorman makes a replacement transmission pan that has an oil drain plug. From what you showed us, it seems best to drop the pan and thoroughly clean it along with the magnet anyway.
Frank, maybe I missed it. So the the transmission was slipping and after the fluid and filter were changed, shifting was restored to normal?
Ah yes the twin turbo 6 cylinder model. That's a modified version of a gm 4t65e transmission. Pretty notorious for failure. They don't hold up very well to twin turbo bitch slaps. Lol
This is the only drivetrain on this era Volvo that has a transmission pan that can be removed from the bottom in this fashion. The rest of the cars from this time were equipped with a few variations of the Aisin AW55 which simply had a drain plug instead. The transmission filter is not serviceable without removing the transmission and splitting the main case. A little later down the line they started using the Aisin TF80 which has a weird two piece drain plug.
look like an experienced mechanic here.
i have never had my transmission filter replaced, rather always change oil.now I know so I will
you suppose to remove transmission drain plug first.
Good job buddy
mate your awesome, greetings from new zealand
DAMN look that mileage and it shifts like a dream!. thanks for the video. im gonna do this to my 2004 xc90 (same engine same transmission) it drives fine for a while then it starts slipping. i dont think the filter has ever been replaced and tranny fluid is super dirty but not burnt. Do you know off the top of your head what transmission fluid you used? thank you