This is with my seats all the way forward, I did that so I can show the placement more easily. When the seats are in normal driving position (nearly all the …
This is with my seats all the way forward, I did that so I can show the placement more easily. When the seats are in normal driving position (nearly all the …
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Because shorter cable runs help with voltage drop and allow me to run smaller gauge cable. The texas heat was also an issue with my first amp that I had in the trunk (it would overheat on hot days), so the amps in the cabin with air conditioning were pretty great.
In my new car, I pulled the spare wheel and created a false floor and put the subs into home made fiber glass boxes in the trunk. Much cleaner set up. This video was what I did in high school on a very limited budget.
Amps are still going strong after 5 years lol. THey’re in my new car now. The feet wasn’t an issue because in the video, i had the seats fully forward to show the placement, when I drove like that, the seats were much farther back and feet or wet shoes were never an issue.
That head unit was a temporary one at the time. I had a double din nav unit that replaced it. I was in high school and money was tight, that’s why
Because $1000 car. My first car, it’s long gone now though. Now I have a 6 speed.
why would you put the amps under seats t.t
remove the spare wheel = place for amps 🙂
no guard plates for the amps?
what about the feet of passengers, wet shoes etc
great way to ruin a amp !
looks like you did a lot of extra work even for the other things you replaced. i woulda got some custom fabric carpet and cut it out while i was at it, all the work for just a single dinn head unit sucks bro. i put a 7″ double din in mine myself it fits nice. also a better spot for the subs is in the trunk screwed to the backseat. or even where spare tire goes. anyway, gj fixing things
Because $2000. I learned to drive on a stick, but the car was intended to be handed down to my sister (which it was). I drive a 2009 Honda Civic Si now, so good ‘ol 6 speed manual transmission.
Why automatic
volvo for life
how did you put that radio in? i can’t find housing for it any where
The white version looks so ugly! I’ve got a Red Volvo 850 (1996). Still runs like it did 16 years ago.
Ummmmmm…. I’ve always had a job since i turned 15. Worked as a lifeguard as soon as I could because it was the only job offered at 15. Result of unemployment, false. I worked my ass off for this system.
@accordztec Thanks, I appreciate the applause. You could say I’m a car audio enthusiast. I actually have since upgraded my system more since I’ve switched to a new car.
First off, im not a fan of some volvos, only yours and the T5. But you gotta be an enthusiast to do the amount of work you did. I have a 86z and try to fix things if im there. But for a volvo fan braVO!
Finally someone who does installs right and correctly unlike some peoples crappy installs. (im an ol’school installer myself).
Wow man thats aawesome!! I wanna take my volvo apart now! lol
Hey do you know how to remove the gear selector from a volvo 850? I want to replace my.
awesome video, just sent you a message about the same setup I have!
hey i liked the video! i also have a volvo and i want to put in a new sterio system, but the problem is the fact i cant take out the stereo system, its not a standard one like yours
yeah well thanks man, but i just bought a hifonics bxi-2608D im gonna see how my type rs will take it in my new bravada yes i bought a new one, but if they can’t handle it im a get some 18’s or 18 from fi btl or two bls
Thanks,
My subs are actually the 10″ version because I wanted the speed and precision of a 10″ woofer (I listen to metal). However, I have the 4 ohm voice coil version. So since each sub has 2 voice coils, I have each sub wired to 8 ohms, then the subs are wired in parallel at the amp to drop impedance to 4 ohms.
Also, Go with 4 ohms with a PDX amp. Due to it’s design, the amp will put out 1000 watts at 2 or 4 ohms. It won’t put any more power out at 2 ohms. use 4 Ohms, it’s better for the amp
just saying man one of the best system/car buildup videos i’ve ever seen props, id say this is EXO quality, and another Q what type r’s do you have 1242 or 1222? im looking too upgrade too a PDX 1.1000 and wondering if they would be aBIG difference because my subs i can only wire too 4 or 1 ohms so im screwed too 600rms for the pair =/
that shit gets so stressing when you have all your stuff out of the truck!
Well, buy from a reputable company. Streetwires, JBL, etc.
If you buy the cheaper ones, you tend to 0 guage wire, but the thing is that most of it is plastic, so you’re not actually getting a lot. It’s like getting 4 guage wire wrapped in a lot of plastic. There’s no need to buy the most expensive kit though. Probably middle of the road from a decent company is a safe bet.
if i get a 0 guage does the brand i get matter? Because i see different prices, im willing to spend if i have to but would prefer not to
Hmmm…. Well, I didn’t buy a wiring kit, I bought the pieces. You’ll probably want 2 Awg at least with 1000 watt rms, if you can afford 0, then go that way. I’m using 0 guage and it’s good stuff.
You will want some clips and RCA interconnect cables to go with it. Since it’s a subwoofer amp, you don’t need super high end RCAs.
what wiring kit would you reccomend for 2 12 ” alpine type R’s and an alpine mrp-m1000 amplifier : thx: last question
the m500 would be good for running a single type r
It’s better to go with the 1000 otherwise you’ll only be doing about 250 watts RMS per sub, when they take 500 RMS each lol.
So if you want to push them, go with the M1000, and wire them correctly though
if your going m1000 go 12’s i mean the 15s take 750 rms easily the m2000 is designed for the 15s as the m1000 is for the 12’s, but im gonna run 4 12’s off the m2000 shortly i have 4 12inch 08 versions and im getting a new truck like a 98 dodge ram 1500 quad cab, stripping out the backseat and throwing in a massive box, with the m2000 for the subs