4 Part Series how to change the timing belt, camshaft, crankshaft and intermediate shaft Oil seals, spark plugs and drive belts on a Volkswagen Golf Cabrio o…
4 Part Series how to change the timing belt, camshaft, crankshaft and intermediate shaft Oil seals, spark plugs and drive belts on a Volkswagen Golf Cabrio o…
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You da man!!!
@pwolff1177 You’re welcome Phil. Thanks for commenting. /John
just curious, was the distributer timing off much with the new belt? I
called a VW dealer, and they change 900$+ to change the timing belt. I plan
to also change the water pump and idler when I get around to doing my 01
Cabrio with 111K miles. I lost two VWs do to timing belts breaking, so this
is a bit of insurance to do it ahead of time, like every 60K miles or so.
The parts are around 100$ (water pump too). It looks like there’s room down
there to work in too.
By the way, you are hillarius! I almost fell out of my chair from your
comment regarding no need for excercise! Keep up the good work and post
more videos 🙂
@phnx85 Also, if you got the auto-adjusting t-belt tensioner then you only
replace the pulley part that spins. Not the whole tensioner mechanism. If
the car only has say 120k miles or less then you can probably get by
without replacing the tensioner pulley. But if you can, it’s good practice
to change it. /John
Excelent walktrough! Thanks for taking the time to explain in such details
for us DIY mechanics. I’m going to change the timing belt on my sisters
Golf. If there’s no need to change the oil seals i don’t need to remove the
crankshaft and camshaft sprokets right? I only need to loosen the tentioner?
Thanks for the kind words. You’re welcome. /John
@Jamaica1985 You’re welcome. Thanks for commenting. /John
@kneedown4GOD Thanks for watching and commenting. /John
@danky1003 No, it’s a direct shot to the spark plug. I cover this in one of
the four videos. Thanks /John
Thanks so much for this video. My 99 jetta is runnin’ smooth……… You
saved me a ton of time and money. You’re the man. Thanks again, Phil
Thank you John for this, I just had to do the same thing on my in-law’s
cabrio. You saved me from making a couple major mistakes. You’re an
excellent mechanic. Keep up all the great work and thanks again. Diego.
nice indepth vids. good walk through
How did you get the spark plugs out from underneath the intake manifold? Do
you have to take off the intake manifold?
I have a 99 cabriot, which computer is in the back seat of the car? the
last owner changed the computer and now the one I purchased does not match.
thank you for your video. i had a same jetta 94 GL and need to change all
belt. ur video help a lot..
Great videos. About to attempt later this week. Without this type of help,
it would be ten times more difficult. What is your method for keeping all
of the bolt locations straight? I noticed it looked like you put some of
the bolts back in their locations to keep them straight.
Awesome! Thanks.
@ejpalmer007 Go back to the basics. You need: 1) Compression 2) spark at
the right time 3) fuel. So do: 1) pull #1 spark plug and check compression
if you got a tester. Otherwise see if it blows your finger off the hole
when someone cranks. 2) Ground #1 spark plug to intake manifold and see if
you got good strong blue spark when someone cranks her. 3) See if the plug
is wet & smells of gas. If no, remove air filter and inject propane into
intake hose from an unlit torch. See if she starts.
does this apply for the ABS and ADZ engines from 94,,cause there is a
timing dot on the intermediat shaft sprocket to
@Dougie085 I’m not sure. I have not worked on the 1.8L but generally most
timing belt jobs are pretty much the same if there is only one overhead
cam. /John
@789rramirez Cheers. /John
Thanks for the excellent tutorial!
You’re welcome. /John
@spelunkerd The flex bolt had no mark to identify that it needs
replacement. It is a torque to yield bolt, meaning the bolt is torqued to a
predefined lb-ft specification and then it is tightened by angle. The bolt
actually stretches and holds everything together like a stretched spring.
The metal is stressed to just below its yield point (stretch point). Doing
it this way ensures more accurate retaining tension. Thanks /John
Best timing belt video out there, Thanks. Great that you threw in the seal
replacements as well. It’s always nice to know what to do if you find a
leaking seal along the way. You identified a flex bolt that had to be
replaced. Do those flex bolts come with a mark on them that identifies them
as having that property?