4 Part Series how to change the timing belt, camshaft, crankshaft and intermediate shaft Oil seals, spark plugs and drive belts on a Volkswagen Golf Cabrio o…
VW Timing Belt Oil Seal DIY Golf Cabrio Jetta (3 of 4)
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right on thanks man. your videos are great. Ill check it out asap.
Sounds like your camshaft position sensor (lives inside the distributor body) is not working properly. Maybe the distributor rotor is not timed properly? Put a mark on the dizzy body where spark plug #1 lug on the dizzy cap lives. Make sure the dizzy rotor points to that mark on the body when the engine is timed and after you remove the dizzy cap. Maybe the distributor body got rotated a bit? If that sensor doesn’t read properly the car will operate in “limp-home” safe mode = less power.
Hi, I have just replaced my timing belt and water pump, everthing runs fine, idle is good. But I am getting the cam sensor error and I have noticed a lack of power in acceleration. even though it runs fine and nothing else noticable, could it be the timing is off? thanks
Half a tooth – I wouldn’t worry about it. The piece of plastic is flimsy and it could be the plastic that is not positioned correctly. /John
Everything else aligned but my camshaft is half a tooth off. the arrow basically splits the T. any suggestions?!?!?!
You’re welcome. good luck. /John
When the piston is on its way up but about 1/4 from the top. /John
Thank you. /John
keep doing what your doing. Youve been a great help.
Most likely the mechanic disconnected either the battery or the throttle body. The throttle body adaptation (calibration) settings (which the car learns over time) was probably lost from memory. Drive it for a couple days and the car will relearn the adaptation settings and idle should return to normal. The same thing will happen if you clean the dirt off the throttle body plate. /John
After having my timing belt replaced immediately my car started idle too fast rpms too high. The guy who replaced the belt said he made it rather tight, ( it was squeeking for awhile) because it would loosen up and be fine. It did stop squeeking and seemed okay. its just that its idling way too fast. any suggestions?
Thank you for the kind words. /John
This guy is a hell of a mechanic, very squared away indeed. Torquing everything, attention to detail… I would trust this guy to work on my airplane.
That’s great news. .. and thanks for the kind words. /John
OK John I was able to get slack out of belt pushing it up or clockwise , only thing when tightening bolt it would get too tight,, all over again, Got it eventually.. its been weeks and weeks car is looking running good.. Again many thanks to your good, clear and even at times funny videos. The part about the gym. its so true.. I was putting in 10 hour days up and down all day! You have saved many of us $ THANK you and not to mention those that attempted are smarter now have a great Summer
Turn/twist the tensioner so the direction it moves will remove any slack in the belt. You make the belt tight enough so it can’t be twisted by hand more than 90 degrees (a quarter turn) with reasonable force. Just check your timing marks. If they line up you should be fine. /John
great video,,, many thanks… one question… when tightening the tensioner is it ok to pull to right like you did , therefore counter clockwise.. I read somewhere should be tighten clockwise?? so pushing up when tightening.. . im getting some sounds that dont sound so good and trying to figure out why. please respond . again appreciate your videos and help…
The belt has a tight side (side towards front of car) and a slack side. The tensioner lives on the slack side. A modification to the tight side would make the marks not line up. A modification or adjustment to the slack side (tensioner side) should not affect the marks. But, glad that everything seems fine. Good stuff. Thanks for the update. /John
John. I got it lined as close as I could. I think my problem was that this car had a hydraulic tensioner and I replaced it with one that looks like yours. I fired it up tonight and everything seems fine. Thanks for your help.
The marks should be nearly dead on. Otherwise you are either off by one complete belt tooth (which is a lot) or else the woodruff key / positioning lug on the front crank sprocket has sheered and therefore that front sprocket has shifted, causing the crank to be off. Some flywheel marks may look different. Make sure the flywheel mark you’re looking at is correct. If it is correct and you are off time it’s a good idea to remove the crank sprocket to verify. /John
How exact do the timing marks (guides) need to be? I’m having trouble lining up my crankshaft. I’m using the hole in the bell housing as a guide. 97 cabby w/ manual tranny.
What do you want a v-belt tool for? For the Toyota? Yes, you can use the rope trick on any engine. /John
Hi John, where can you get a v belt tool? I have been looked eveywhere, and i cann’t find it. can i use the rope trick on Toyota engine?
Yea, Imagine.
Just think what you could do with a lift. wish you lived close, we could make some money.
Thanks for watching and commenting. /John
nice vid