4 Part Series how to change the timing belt, camshaft, crankshaft and intermediate shaft Oil seals, spark plugs and drive belts on a Volkswagen Golf Cabrio o…
VW Timing Belt Oil Seal DIY Golf Cabrio Jetta (2 of 4)
59
Like
Save
')){kind=link}
Comments
Write a comment
You must be logged in to post a comment.
yes, if you have the cam marks aligned then it means the valves should be closed on cyl #1 and when piston is up it is the compression stroke. /John
Great Video, thanks for your explanations! One question, though. If the timing belt is off, how do you know if you are on compression stroke or exhaust stroke when you turn the engine over by the crankshaft bolt? I have the cam gear set to the reference mark so does that mean the valves on the cam for piston #1 will be on compression stroke? Thanks for your explanation, I have looked all over the internet and am still confused a bit!
If your engine is the VW ABA engine then you should not have any valve damage since this is a non-interference engine. Just retime the engine from scratch. Make sure all your marks are aligned and put the belt back on.
Also, don’t forget or get thrown off that for each revolution of the camshaft the crankshaft spins twice.
Weird. I don’t know. There should be a pin or woodruff key that makes the sprocket stationary on the cam. I wonder if you sheered that. I highly doubt you broke the cam unless it was already cracked and/or you were using a heavy duty impact wrench.
(Continuation #2) I called a couple specialists, and what they said was because I had loosened the crankshaft and intermediary shaft bolts, the noise I was hearing was the valves slapping back down. So now, I have essentially rotated my Cam without moving the crankshaft. So when at full compression in #1, my Cam markings do not align to the TDC markings on the Splash guard. What do you guys think my next step should be?
(Continuation) – I also noticed earlier on here you mention only placing 6-8 in of rope, I think i put in way more, like possibly 3 feet. But again, it did work for the Crank shaft and intermediary bolt, just started to make a clicking noise on the cam bolt. I’m worried I broke something, please let me know if I did, I’m considering tightening the crankshaft and intermediary bolts back and turning the car on, as I haven’t moved the old belt off yet. Could I have damaged the valve?
Hey John, I just tried your rope trick and was able to take out the stretch bolt on the crank shaft and the intermediary bolt, but when I tried the cam bolt, the rope trick didn’t work and it started rotating past TDC and made a clicking noise. Did I break my piston/cam shaft? I think I might have messed up the alignment of TDC or something? – Because when I took out the rope and put it back in to try again, it goes right past the TDC mark on the splash guard before stopping again.
I did not correct it. I put it back the way it was before. I had to rely on only the flywheel timing mark for the crank timing. Thanks / john
I show how to do it in one of the videos. I feed rope in the spark plug hole and then turn the crank to push the piston to TDC and pinch the rope. The rope prevents the engine from turning while I loosen the bolt. Make sure it’s on the compression stroke so the valves are closed. /John
How did you keep the crank from spinning when removing the crank sprocket bolt?
Sounds like it should be fine.
hi i changed the timing belt myself ,the old timing belt was also slipping to the border of the sprockets just a litt like 2mm i replaced the tensioner and tighten up a little the cranksaft sprocket bolt it helped a little now the belt just protrudes from the cam sprock 1 mm. the new timing belt was the same it didnt had any indications to install it in any directon so i just instaled it wite the letters printed on it facing me so i can read it. is this the correct way or im wrong??
. thanks!
Did you or anyone else recently change the t-belt? If yes, did you compare the new belt with the old one? You should have compared them to make sure the tooth pitch and tooth design (square/round?) was the same. Also, some belts may have instructions to install them so they turn a certain direction. If backwards it could walk off the sprocket. /John
very nice vids, i have a problem with my jetta mk3, the timing belt is sliding out from the sprockets it makes a loud rubbing sound it seems that it rubs with the crankshaft pulley i dont know how to fix it anyone can help?.
This is a “juicy” video. =p
Sorry, I don’t understand your question. You want to know the name of a crimping tool? Where am I using this tool in question? Are you referring to the strap wrench I use to hold the sprocket in place? It’s called a strap wrench or search Google for “V-belt wrench pulley” /John
hi nice video and a question is called crimping tool you use to k and which brand is?
Oh my� I am on the weird part of Youtube again.
PM sent. /John
how do you set the right timing mark on the intermediate shaft, my distributor was not pointing to the number one cylinder when i set the cam and crank mark.
Yes, absolutely. /John
Can the rope tecnique work with other vehicles
Thanks /John
That’s the first time I’ve seen the rope technique on youtube. I’m glad you emphasized that the cylinder you put the rope in needs to be just past TDC, so that the rope is safely pressing against closed valves when you turn it CCW to loosen the harmonic balancer bolt.
Another great video.
Good. Thanks for watching and commenting. /John
Excellent! You’re gonna save me with that rope trick!
Well, Diesel doesn’t have a spark plugs so I don’t know what to tell you. I haven’t worked on a diesel before. My suggestion would be to not use the rope trick and instead remove the starter motor and wedge a screw driver in between the flywheel ring-gear (or flexplate on an automatic) and the bell housing starter hole. Jam the engine (to prevent it from turning) that way. /John
HI, Really nice vid’s 🙂
i was on my way to part 3 but i had one question…
this rope trick and getting the marks right on the camshaft. you can see the actual piston. (to see if your piston is up)
i have a “94 AAZ turbo Diesel. but i can’t see my pistons because my glow plugs.
any tips?
Thanks in advice
David
Thank you for watching and commenting. /John
nice job!!! well done video.
You put in 6 to 8 inches of rope as the piston is coming up on the compression stroke, when both valves are closed. The piston can’t rise all the way up to the top because the rope fills the combustion chamber space, and jams the piston from rising all the way to the top. This then locks the crankshaft from spinning and lets you loosen or tighten the crankshaft nut. Thanks for watching and asking. /John
how does putting a rope in #1 cylinder keep the crank from turning? do u just jam the rope all the way in or something?
But if your problem is happening only in wet weather conditions then it’s a high chance you have a bad ignition coil. Problems will show up on wet days or if the ignition coil feels moisture. Troubleshoot it with WD-40. See my ignition coil troubleshooting video. If it’s not the coil then I would check compression to make sure your timing belt hasn’t slipped and/or check the fuel pressure/delivery. Your problem could also be a bad crankshaft position sensor. Good luck. /John
Could be any number of problems. You want to first make sure the engine is getting spark and fuel. Remove a spark plug and see if it’s wet with gas. If yes, then you’re getting fuel. Then get one of those inline spark flash testers (like $5 at autoparts store.) Hook that in line with your spark plug – or – with one plug removed, hold the plug hook to engine metal. Get a friend to crank the engine. Make sure you got spark.
my car is having problems as well 🙁 I have a 2.0 mk3 golf and it recently shut down on me while i was driving. It cranks and has fuel but it just splutters when i crank it. as if its dying and trying to start over and over again..
what can the problem be?