Do an eBay search for a #10 PolyDrive Cylinder Head Bolt Tool (6 points) to
find it. This is the most common but some VW engines use different head
bolt tools, from 9 mm to 12 mm, and some have 12 points and others 6
points. If you can get the engine type, there is probably a way to figure
it out before hand.
The odds are low, but if your are unlucky, it can happen. First guess is a
breakdown in the wire, such as decayed wire insulation, in the power wiring
to those motors.
just to add to what you did here always check to make sure that what your
using sand is not to abrasive or you could damage the cylinder head surface
the best thing i have found is matco tools plastic rollocks “you can buy
them at ace hardware just not matco brand” but they are 100% safe for all
soft metals good job though guys i would not sugest doing this job on a vw
at your home though (unless you have done one before)
I’d like to thank you for all of the great helpful recommendations and
additional information you provided for viewers on our head gasket video.
You provided a lot of useful information.
Thanks for the vid. I’m going to use it to replace my head gasket. I tried
using the sealer and it didn’t work. Keep posting good vids and never mind
the dumb ass critics who don’t post anything.
Your an idiot, when sanding a head you have to use a flat block and not a
piece of napkin. Because there is a possibility that the head gasket wont
seal properly and then your screwed.
If you think the head gasket is a pain, try replacing the heater core. You
have to remove the whole dash to get to it. I would rather do head gaskets
all day then do that.
@YeechBlitz Nice tutorial man…. I am a garage mechanic too! I only work
on my 07 4runner though…. My sister in-law has one of these Jetta that
she just bought and the Head Gasket Blew on her not even 3 months after
buying the car…. Looks like it will cost her a arm and a leg to fix…
Lol i am not even going to try to do this for here looks like about 3hours
of straight work!
@YeechBlitz – Thanks, I did change the t-belt back when my jetta hit 70K
miles with my dad, but I don’t remember checking the right side by the
transmission as shown in your video. That’s great to know. I remember
watching my dad rotating it to TDC though. As mentioned, my 2000 jetta is
at 155K miles now, so it may due very soon. Your videos are really helpful!!
Thanks for calling me an idiot. It is true that you have to use a fine
sandpaper and not press down too hard, or over sand a particular spot,
because the aluminum head can gouge. A flat block is safer but not immune
to similar problems if, for example, you ride one of the edges too much. I
can say that I have used fine sandpaper wrapped in a cloth for cleaning
over a dozen heads, and never had a problem. So, it may not be as idiotic
as it first appears.
Hey I found a easy replacement for the special polydrive. a 3/4 hex drive
bit will work on the head bolts(I think its called a hex drive) If you dont
have one, its like $5 at parts stores.
i didnt like the way you clean the surfaces, and you should mention to
mark the timing belt and the pulley, or if you did mentioned i may be
spaced out but that should be very important
SANDPAPER… ON A HEAD are u crazy u can go to napa or something and get a
gasket removing tool that goes on your air angle grinder doesnt damage
aluminum
Yeech talk to me babe… i had the boiling overflow from exhaust in the
coolant, i removed my head and ported and polished it and cleaned it up
nice, great power , but of course it starts bubbling in 20 minutes and now
i see steam in the exhaust more than i did with old head gasket , minimum
steam but steam . I am gunna try to re do it and torque like u , 20, 30 ,
40 then 60 , honda says 20 then 61 and I have same prob, u think its worth
it since it worked for u or am i cracked somewhere? thanks
I HAVE A JETTA 2003, 2,0 AND CARRY OUT THE TEST OF COMPRESION AND THE
CYLINDER 1,3.4 HAVE A READING OF 140 LBS, AND THE #2 HAS A READING OF 90
LBS. THAT I SHOULD CARRY OUT.
Wow great i can’t understand or belive the 17 Dumb Idiots that didn’t like
this Vid!!! I mean you took so much time explaining this in a wayi would
say is clear and concise. It was slow well explained Vid and that take alot
of effort!!! What a great Vid i really do mean that. I haven’t even got a
Vw, my car is a Peugeot and i will use this as an example and guide!!!!!!
You call yourself an engineer? lmfao. You fail to notice the reason your
compression is low is the fact your valve seats are fukn garbo and needed
to be lapped. Instead you are a dipshit and torqued your head down like a
“PLEB” and squished your headgasket probably 1mm+ which raised your
compression and thus bringing your valves closer to your cylinder. There is
no “traditional” torque method pleb, only factory specs that should be
followed when torquing.
Incorrect, SteezyPotato. Head gaskets of different composition and
construction require different squeeze pressures between the head and
engine block. Also, valves had 100% contact and seated fully. Decreasing
distance in the head-block interface by 1mm would only decrease the normal
cylinder stroke volume from 11.34 to 11.23 sq. in. (1% change), increasing
the compression by less than 1 psi (negligible). Using VW factory specs for
the aftermarket gasket, our compression dropped by 40-60 psi.
thanks man i tried to run direct power to it and it still wont kick on so
im guessing that the fan is bad but there are two fans on it and i cant get
either of them to come on what is the probability that both would not be
working
their is way to test the gasket, a tool similar to the compression test
tool, but this tool after connected to the cylinder instead of the spark
plug it will be connected to a normal air compressor and if you get the
bubbles in the coolant system that means you defiantly got a blown
gasket…
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Great vid. keep doin your thing my friend
im sure you’re the technical genius who diagnosed the head gasket failure,
who doesnt know what a polydrive bit is. Please, stop working on VW’s,
Do an eBay search for a #10 PolyDrive Cylinder Head Bolt Tool (6 points) to
find it. This is the most common but some VW engines use different head
bolt tools, from 9 mm to 12 mm, and some have 12 points and others 6
points. If you can get the engine type, there is probably a way to figure
it out before hand.
You get a 12 volt battery, like the one in your car, and run wires to it.
If it doesnt spin, fan is bad.
The odds are low, but if your are unlucky, it can happen. First guess is a
breakdown in the wire, such as decayed wire insulation, in the power wiring
to those motors.
Why did you saw the head bolts if you say you need to replace them?
8mm allen sockets work just as good for that special tool that you need
What’s that tool called that VW wouldn’t sell you? I keep missing it in the
video.
just to add to what you did here always check to make sure that what your
using sand is not to abrasive or you could damage the cylinder head surface
the best thing i have found is matco tools plastic rollocks “you can buy
them at ace hardware just not matco brand” but they are 100% safe for all
soft metals good job though guys i would not sugest doing this job on a vw
at your home though (unless you have done one before)
I’d like to thank you for all of the great helpful recommendations and
additional information you provided for viewers on our head gasket video.
You provided a lot of useful information.
Thanks for the vid. I’m going to use it to replace my head gasket. I tried
using the sealer and it didn’t work. Keep posting good vids and never mind
the dumb ass critics who don’t post anything.
stand up job. learned a lot from this
Hey great video but, I’m having trouble finding the six-point socket tool.
I couldn’t find the website. Can someone post the link? Thanks!
Thank you, IftheMovie. We will do that … and good luck on the head gasket
job.
nice work young fella
Your an idiot, when sanding a head you have to use a flat block and not a
piece of napkin. Because there is a possibility that the head gasket wont
seal properly and then your screwed.
If you think the head gasket is a pain, try replacing the heater core. You
have to remove the whole dash to get to it. I would rather do head gaskets
all day then do that.
@YeechBlitz Nice tutorial man…. I am a garage mechanic too! I only work
on my 07 4runner though…. My sister in-law has one of these Jetta that
she just bought and the Head Gasket Blew on her not even 3 months after
buying the car…. Looks like it will cost her a arm and a leg to fix…
Lol i am not even going to try to do this for here looks like about 3hours
of straight work!
liar
@YeechBlitz – Thanks, I did change the t-belt back when my jetta hit 70K
miles with my dad, but I don’t remember checking the right side by the
transmission as shown in your video. That’s great to know. I remember
watching my dad rotating it to TDC though. As mentioned, my 2000 jetta is
at 155K miles now, so it may due very soon. Your videos are really helpful!!
Thanks for calling me an idiot. It is true that you have to use a fine
sandpaper and not press down too hard, or over sand a particular spot,
because the aluminum head can gouge. A flat block is safer but not immune
to similar problems if, for example, you ride one of the edges too much. I
can say that I have used fine sandpaper wrapped in a cloth for cleaning
over a dozen heads, and never had a problem. So, it may not be as idiotic
as it first appears.
can you please tell me the specifics on the head bolt tool, i see there are
different sizes 10mm,14mm…
Hey I found a easy replacement for the special polydrive. a 3/4 hex drive
bit will work on the head bolts(I think its called a hex drive) If you dont
have one, its like $5 at parts stores.
i didnt like the way you clean the surfaces, and you should mention to
mark the timing belt and the pulley, or if you did mentioned i may be
spaced out but that should be very important
SANDPAPER… ON A HEAD are u crazy u can go to napa or something and get a
gasket removing tool that goes on your air angle grinder doesnt damage
aluminum
that was funny. nice job men.
جميل وشئ ليس غريب على جميع الاحوال شيئ مفيد thank u
Yeech talk to me babe… i had the boiling overflow from exhaust in the
coolant, i removed my head and ported and polished it and cleaned it up
nice, great power , but of course it starts bubbling in 20 minutes and now
i see steam in the exhaust more than i did with old head gasket , minimum
steam but steam . I am gunna try to re do it and torque like u , 20, 30 ,
40 then 60 , honda says 20 then 61 and I have same prob, u think its worth
it since it worked for u or am i cracked somewhere? thanks
What website did you use to find the ‘6 pointed german contraption’? What
size would it be for a Jetta 2.0 2002? Please and Thank you
I HAVE A JETTA 2003, 2,0 AND CARRY OUT THE TEST OF COMPRESION AND THE
CYLINDER 1,3.4 HAVE A READING OF 140 LBS, AND THE #2 HAS A READING OF 90
LBS. THAT I SHOULD CARRY OUT.
Thanks! I love watching all your repair videos.
2 valves per cylinder? is this a joke?
Wow great i can’t understand or belive the 17 Dumb Idiots that didn’t like
this Vid!!! I mean you took so much time explaining this in a wayi would
say is clear and concise. It was slow well explained Vid and that take alot
of effort!!! What a great Vid i really do mean that. I haven’t even got a
Vw, my car is a Peugeot and i will use this as an example and guide!!!!!!
that was a real nice video u made it look simple but its not dont even try
to mess with the timing belt if u dont know what u doing
You call yourself an engineer? lmfao. You fail to notice the reason your
compression is low is the fact your valve seats are fukn garbo and needed
to be lapped. Instead you are a dipshit and torqued your head down like a
“PLEB” and squished your headgasket probably 1mm+ which raised your
compression and thus bringing your valves closer to your cylinder. There is
no “traditional” torque method pleb, only factory specs that should be
followed when torquing.
Incorrect, SteezyPotato. Head gaskets of different composition and
construction require different squeeze pressures between the head and
engine block. Also, valves had 100% contact and seated fully. Decreasing
distance in the head-block interface by 1mm would only decrease the normal
cylinder stroke volume from 11.34 to 11.23 sq. in. (1% change), increasing
the compression by less than 1 psi (negligible). Using VW factory specs for
the aftermarket gasket, our compression dropped by 40-60 psi.
thanks man i tried to run direct power to it and it still wont kick on so
im guessing that the fan is bad but there are two fans on it and i cant get
either of them to come on what is the probability that both would not be
working
GREAT HELP KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK AND THE VIDEOS. THANK YOU.
their is way to test the gasket, a tool similar to the compression test
tool, but this tool after connected to the cylinder instead of the spark
plug it will be connected to a normal air compressor and if you get the
bubbles in the coolant system that means you defiantly got a blown
gasket…
Vw method didnt work because the head isnt perfectly straight.
ok bro, thanks, gonna try to find it