For 2004 VW Jetta 2.0L BEV and related engines. See the other video needed to do this: “How to Put Piston 1 and Top Dead Center” by Yeechblitz.
For 2004 VW Jetta 2.0L BEV and related engines. See the other video needed to do this: “How to Put Piston 1 and Top Dead Center” by Yeechblitz.
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Fine Video !
Can you tell where you got that nice plier tensioner tool ?
Very helpful video, YeechBlitz. May I ask how many miles was on this VW
when the video was shot? I just want to get an idea how many driven miles
would cause such condition on the timing belt. I have a 2001 VW Golf GLS
with a 2.0L engine, I believe it is the same as the Jetta, I only have
89,850 miles on it as of today. Should I wait another 10,000 miles when it
gets to 100,000 miles as recommended by VW or should I find a trusted
mechanic and do the timing belt change now? Thank you.
Great job man
Misfiring means a timing problem, as if the cam shaft and crankshaft were
not truly aligned at TDC (top dead center) because this sounds like the
problem. Other common suspects are a bad computer, but other possibilities
for similar behavior to misfiring are clogged fuel filter, water in gas
tank, spark plug wires that short out, corroded or oily spark plugs,
clogged air filter, and other possibilities. These have to be ruled out one
at a time.
I just got my timing belt changed on my 2.0L 97 jetta and now my engine is
misfiring. I doubled checked and everything is lined up. What could be the
problem.
Notice he didn’t start the car after. LOL Just kidding. Thanks for taking
the time to make this video.
Isnt it counterclock wise when tightening the timing belt???
Thanks for video! Converter window question is your assistant rotated the
crank while you watched the window. Is there a matching mark you were
seeing? Also, as you turned the crank with timing belt mounted, you are
turning the cam shaft as well. Since moving both shafts, how would then
assure TDC for piston one was also the alignment necessary for the Cam
shaft? You did move crank, now did you realign the Cam Shaft to marks while
rotated to cylinder 1 was TDC? Thanks so much!
@sx2tmd never ever remove the 19mm main crankpulley bolt thats asking for
future almost undetectable problems in the future
next time remove that right wheel
… and we have a video on this. See “How to put piston 1 at top dead
center.”
Good Info. Thank you Sir.
Hi thanks for posting this video. I have an AZG engine in my 2.0L Golf. My
car doesn’t seem to have the square window next to the ignition pack as
seen in your video at 12:22. Do you know where it may be in my car? Or, is
it possible that my car doesn’t have this window? Thanks in advance.
This was a great video! Was very helpful. I just wished it included more
details such as: Re-installing the Motor Mount which turned out to be a
pain in the derriere, how to change tensioner & water pump. I have a 2000
VW jetta 5-speed with broken belt. I will need to know how to check for
crankshaft TDC. The info given in video is for automatic tranny. Couldn’t
find the Timing window on my 5-speed tranny. Also would need to know how to
safely turn crankshaft & camshaft to TDC….
Just did timing belt on 2000 Jetta. View video b/4 doing & it explain
process well. Only point I can add b/c of my car year- the crank pully ALSO
HAS NOTCH that NEEDS TO BE LINED UP to mark! We spent good hour looking for
that “square box” to the right side of engine only to realize that it isnt
there. So both cam & the crank have marks making it easy to adjust. U also
need to remove bolt to crank pully use 19mm 12 pt socket 1/2 drive w/
breaker bar to ground. crank engine to bust loose!
Sir i wanna ask you about the water pump if its must be replaced with the
timing belt in a VW golf 1.6 rabbit which has 76000 km , or i can just
replace the belt and wait until 100.000km and then change the water pump ?
Thanks a ton for posting this! Between this and the awesome DIY at VWVortex
I felt prepared to do the job myself and saved a good thousand dollars or
so. One funny thing, I looked ALL over the cam shaft sprocket and saw NO
mark for TDC anywhere. I have the less common BBW engine (is it a
California thing?) And apparently VW didn’t see fit to include it. Oh, and
spend the $20 for the tensioner tool. I had a HORRIBLE time tensioning it
and bent a few pairs of snap ring pliers in the process.
nice video. what are the steps on changing the camshaft position sensor?
what brand do you guys recommend to buy when working on vw?
From what I remember at this point, no. The nut that clamps the tensioner
is a typical nut that tightens when you twist it in the clockwise direction.
hi, do you have to take the center bolt from the crankshaft after the
taking off the other 4 bolts that surround it? if you do ,do you have to
use a breaker bar to take it(center bolt) off? thz
I have never done one of those on a VW. Not sure at moment.
A light wack with a rubber mallet should take it right off. If not, and if
your pulley is actually being held on by that 19mm bolt (the crankshaft
bolt), then you have a different engine that this one. If it is different,
and the crankshaft bolt is holding on the pulley, there is a good chance
that you do not need to remove the pulley to replace the timing belt.
YeechBlitz, Excellent youtube video Questions regarding setting timing, If
you move lets say the cam when you remove the timing belt after setting TDC
will it move back and forth meaning turn right or turn left? I know when
you set the TDC you are turning the crankshaft pulley right. Does this
happen frequently where a tech removes the belt and somehow the crank or
camshaft moves? I’ve never touched them with the timing belt off so I don’t
know how easy it is to turn them with the belt off….
Awesome video!!! I cant wait to do my timing belt I’m at 99,120 miles. You
did a great job!!! I do have have a question though.. If the white mark on
gear lines up with the arrow why is it nesscary to line up the square
window on the transmission?
@TheWarRelic You only need to line of the square window with the white mark
if you take the timing belt off. As long as the timing does not come off,
you can use either method.
No, the belt is off. After the zero mark is found and the camshaft is on
the OT arrow, then the belt goes on.
Timing belts are fucking stupid.. I wish they would only use a chain
because it last nearly the whole life of the vehicle
Yes. Line up the flywheel (torque converter on automatics) and make sure
the overhead cam sprocket is lined up on the mark. That’s all. The mark on
the crank pulley is not useful in my opinion, as it and the matching mark
(yes, it is actually really there) are hard to see and inaccurate. This is
undoubtably why they went through the trouble of making a flywheel/torque
converter peephole. Best of luck on your work.
I’ve viewed your video a few times and this time around I’m taking notes
and steps. I’ve also read the procedures out of a Haynes manual and they
actually have you remove the spark plugs off. Did you do this? I replaced
those plugs about two months ago. That in itself is a pain in the ass. The
worst of it just getting the boots off of those recessed plugs. Now I know
there is a special tool for that…that is even better than those curbed
end needle nose pliers. Haynes has you relieve fuel psi.
no replacing water pump ?
Ahh! I thought the video made it look like the timing belt was already
mounted when you were rotating the crank. So just seeing the line/circle in
the window is enough to position to TDC – there is no stationary mark on
the window or block to rotate precisely to?
You didnt say anything about the crank pully marks…
Excellent video sir !
Thank you for the video, i have a question, can i replace only the timing
belt tensioner?, cause last time i paid for the timing belt, water pump to
be changed, i was on a budget and the mechanic said it was not needed to
replace the tensioner, but now that i detect the cover was loosen i can
hear a noise from there. If possible, what steps in this video i can jump.
Thank you…
you got some engine malfunction you car computer is in fail safe mode, to
prevent enginedamage.
I was just going through all the step by step in my Haynes Manual for
replacement of the water pump and Timing belt, it mentions nothing about
removing the Engine Mount. My engine is an AEG and the Vehicle is a 1999 VW
Jetta. Your video is very thorough and in depth. Many tried to make a video
on this but fell short. They ended up explaining most of it with little
hands on that was actually viewable. I’m sure that’s what everybody is
impressed with your video. Thanks again for posting.
This is amazing, thank you for posting I’ve been dreading doing this once
it gets warm, but after seeing it done, I feel fairly confident I can pull
it off!! Thank you!!
If it is your first time, give it six hours. Second or more, 2-3 hours, if
you have all the tools needed available and handy.
Probably too late now but I had the same issue with one of those bolts.
After going through many drill bits and breaking an EZ out, I ended up
hammering a 12m socket onto the bolt head and then broke it off. The rest
came right out after that!
I don.t have the guts to do this myself for my 2007 GLI, dealer wants $1000