http://www.ClassicVWbugs.com In this short tip I show how to remove old valve guides and install new ones.
http://www.ClassicVWbugs.com In this short tip I show how to remove old valve guides and install new ones.
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thanks GRATE Vid!!!!
Nice.
Hey Chris, firstly love that your sharing all your knowledge its fantastic
🙂 here is a quick tip I’ve learned: it’s better to put the head in the
oven and the guides in the freezer. They should practically slide in. If
you remove material you run the risk of having it pull out whole the engine
is running hot due to different expansion rates of the brass and head
casting.
Great advice as always Chris.
Chris thanks, thumbs up. Ron
No No No very poor method – never do this.
I hate to say it but you are showing some of the worst practices for
replacing VW valve guides. The old guides should be cored first, the new
guides should never be sanded down, and pressing them in with a c-clamp is
the least desirable way I can think of.
Nice! Very helpful video, thanks Chris. You’re building up quite a
portfolio for us. Appreciated Ian, England
Our engines run fine with the method. Show us what you would do, got a
video?
Ok
Thanks Chris, another incredibly helpful video!
thanks, i heard it made a burning smell to use the ebrake buti guess they
where wrong!!!
WoW great tip, this save alot of my money……
thanks chris my wallet & i thank you.
Good stuff my man. Thanks for sharing.
I stand corrected. I intended to speak only on the sanding of the guide od
( albeit slight). I would not do that since it reduces the press fit. Good
videos – keep going.
Great job!!
But I mostly don’t agree with the installation with the C clamp. The
reason you are sanding (albeit a small amount) the outside surface of the
guide is to make it fit easier. But remember the sanding reduces the press
fit which is probably only on the order of .001″ to .0015″. Keep in mind
the difference between the aluminum head and the bronze (guess) guide is in
the range of 20% and the further reduces the press fit at temperature.
Yeah sounds like maybe your timing is off.
Ok, but again, these videos are made for the folks who are home, DIYers.
Please show US a video of how YOU would go about doing it. By the way, the
motor we did this procedure for runs like a top, no issues, no smoke, no
burning oil, NADDA. Putting them in with a clamp is better than banging
them in.
ebrake always, put in gear for extra protection just in case. But always
ebrake, never just the shifter.
Chris, you make the best videos for the classic bug owner! Keep up the
great work!
I would (and have) use a mandrel made from stock to fit into the guide and
press them out in a press. I know not everyone has a press, but it doesn’t
take much to mash the guide. Your method of installing a bolt is the second
best method I have ever seen and without a press it is what I would do.
hey man my vw beetle as a sligh knocking on one side! all the vlales have
been adjusted but its still there! but it only does it in idle! u cant hear
it when its at higher rpm! do u know what that might be? also is i play
with the distibutor a little like change the timing it will go away! but do
u know what it could be? thanks man please write me back
Hey I was wondering, when you park a beetle do you park it in-gear or use
the hand break?
Use to work on old Triumph motorcycles back-in-the-day. The way we used to
change out the valve guide is put the new guides in the freezer over night,
and put the head in the oven for an hour or two at around 350 just before
your gonna do the job. The guide contracts and the head expands and the
guide practically slips in… have your head holder bolt already installed
and use gloves. It’s gonna be hot.
Thanks you so much for taking the time and doing these videos!! You’re the
man!! I