Another satisfied customer. I got halfway into this job on a friend’s car
not knowing what I was getting into. After getting nowhere on that
bearing, I found this video and cutting the axle out worked like a charm.
Wish I would have searched for this first, would have saved me about an
hour and a half of stress. Thanks for making it!
I have almost everything apart did not cut the shaft core charge what I am
having problem with is the shaft will not come out of the tranny anyone
have any idea 97 Toyota corolla
I use a slide hammer and a striking pry bar on the opposite end and remove
it that way. I have however seen cars so badly rusted, the actual mount
base is pretty much fused/welded to the bearing. Then you do have to cut
the axle. I inform the customer of this. Also after I remove it I
clean/polish the inside of the mounting surface, and coat it with
anti-seize. Makes removal in the future much easier
I had to beat the shaft with a 15 pound sledge hammer (~20 blows) to drive
it out of the motor mount. I made a wooden support to prevent breaking
the mount. If you cut the shaft, you cannot use it for the core trade-in.
1999 Toyota Camry 6cyl Finished it! Total time about 8 hours to do the
entire front. Replaced both driver and passenger parts: half-axles, tie-rod
ends, stabilizing bars, strut/spring towers, control arms, lower ball
joint. All parts from Partsgeek for under $500 shipped. Probably would have
cost $1500 to have a shop do it all (parts/labor).
this video is great help but to spread an easier way to take out the
passenger side cv axle. i have a 98 lexus es300 with the same set up or
hints the luxury camry. what i did to get the stuck bearing from out of the
back engine mount is. i used an air chisel to bust,break or in other words
broke the bearing to release its hold on both sides and it will come out
as long as you’re not loosing any brake fluid…it sounds like the wheel
bearing is starting to fail…the grease in the bearing might be starting
to cook out… if that ends up not being the problem…then i’d start to
suspect the cv joint..
Yes, remove the clip, of course. But the clip isn’t the issue on cars that
are rusted. I’ve done this repair on a number of Camry in the snow belt
region. The bearing was literally fused into the motor mount. Even after
using solvents and banging the bearing out with a mini-sledge (while
removed from the car)), small metal shards of the motor mount came out
along with the bearing, fused to the bearing.
I have an ’06 Camry. Had to put a $60 core deposit on the CV / Axles. Can I
get the axle out without cutting. Was that your discussion at the end of
the vid? Do you have any idea of how long the struts last on these cars? I
have a 112,000 mi on mine. The car is not bouncing or oscillating…yet.
I went thru this on my ’95 Camry 4 cyl and its old bearing housing had
fused with the motor mount. Instead of cutting the old axle, I removed the
old axle intact and stuck inside the motor mount being as I needed it
intact for the refund on the core charge as I got a rebuilt axle. It took
quite some fiddling to get the motor mount’s alignment dowels to let go
from the block with the axle still attached, but I got it done. Then I had
a shop use their torch and press to get them to separate.
My snap ring at the carrier bearing is gone. My axle slid out. I have now
seated it back in but cannot find what size snap ring. Is it a special one
(dealer only) or can I go to the DIY store and get a generic one. Even
though they dont know what I am talking about they sell the assorted packs
of them.
Also, if you remove the top bolt from the soft rubber mount (how do you get
to it?) then you do not need to cut the axle. Thanks again for creating
this video and all of your helpful responses to the comments.
Be careful when ordering replacement shafts. Not sure if my car was made in
US or Japan I selected Japan (too lazy to go look at driver side door) and
got axles with no spline on the transmission end. I was working at the auto
hobby shop on Naval Base San Diego and they ordered from a local parts
store. Got them in 20 mins and they were cheaper than the wrong ones I
ordered on Amazon. I was lucky, but it pays to do your homework (like
watching this video) before taking apart the car.
about 2 hours if you have your mid-shaft bearing frozen into your motor
mount. if the bearing can be freed from the motor mount while it’s still on
the car…about an hour.
Mount bolts on engine block, and it was stripped but I got it all fixed up,
man was that midshaft hard to remove from the mount, I didn’t cut the axle
due to $75 core charge, but everything is just fine ,great video thanks
very helpful for a first time axle remove
I got it out with a slide hammer and Axle Puller Adapter without having to
take out the motor mount. you can probably rent a slide hammer and axle
puller adapter at advanced auto parts or auto zone
THANKS!! THAT BEARING HAD MY BROTHER AND I STUCK FOR 3 DAYS…FINALLY HAD A
FRIEND COME WITH HIS SLEDGE HAMMER, HE SUGGESTED TO PUT THE TRANS IN
NEUTRAL SO IT COULD SPIN TO HIT EACH SIDE OF THAT SHAFT BY THE
BEARING…..AS HE WAS HITTING, I WAS TURNING THE AXLE AND PULLING AT THE
SAME TIME, AND IT FINALLY BROKE FREE 🙂 OF COURSE THE NEW ONE SLID RIGHT IN
LIKE NOTHING WAS EVER THERE..EVEN DOWN HERE IN NORTH CAROLINA THOSE
BEARINGS SEIZE UP 🙁
you could try a DIY store, but i think you’d be better off going to a
dealer..it probably is a specific circumfrence (inside and out) and
thickness… i doubt it would be too expensive. hope you find it for a good
price. thanks for watching!
I have a 1991 Toyota Camry V6. It does not go through a mount but it does
go through a carrier type of bracket. Could I use the same type of vice
grips strategy to hammer it out of the differential? Also, do I need to
drain the differential fluid prior to removing the intermediate shaft from
the differential. thanks in advance
that’s good info! i never ran into that before…the only ones i’ve seen
without splines were the ones for the v6 engine. thanks for letting people
know about that and thanks for watching!
@1good168 hi. once the axle is cut and the motor mount is unbolted from the
engine/frame..the axle end should pull right out of the differential
without any resistance. thanks for watching.
hi, i have not done one on that new of a camry. i looked up the part. it is
very similar, but they might have improved the design so it won’t seize up
as bad. i would try to get it out with the mount is still in the car. good
luck and thanks for watching!
there is an internal c-clip that can be removed by using a flat screw
driver and a pair of pliers, this way you can take the shaft out with out
taking out the engine mount, i have done this about 200 times without any
issue
Well I did everything on the video and I am in rust region, I unbolted the
bearing nut, and 2 of the mount bracket until I got to the last mount
bracket bolt which is stripped , I didn’t hammer the bearing for more than
5 min which didn’t even move, what should I Do?. HELP
Thanks for all your help. My motor mount was bad and needed replacing. As
tricky as it was positioning the bracket and mount during removal, what is
your suggestion for installation; bracket then motor mount, motor mount
then bracket, or assembled and installed as one?
){kind=link}
A video that ends with myspace contact info? Fantastic. Better brush the
dust off of that account…
Another satisfied customer. I got halfway into this job on a friend’s car
not knowing what I was getting into. After getting nowhere on that
bearing, I found this video and cutting the axle out worked like a charm.
Wish I would have searched for this first, would have saved me about an
hour and a half of stress. Thanks for making it!
I have almost everything apart did not cut the shaft core charge what I am
having problem with is the shaft will not come out of the tranny anyone
have any idea 97 Toyota corolla
I use a slide hammer and a striking pry bar on the opposite end and remove
it that way. I have however seen cars so badly rusted, the actual mount
base is pretty much fused/welded to the bearing. Then you do have to cut
the axle. I inform the customer of this. Also after I remove it I
clean/polish the inside of the mounting surface, and coat it with
anti-seize. Makes removal in the future much easier
I had to beat the shaft with a 15 pound sledge hammer (~20 blows) to drive
it out of the motor mount. I made a wooden support to prevent breaking
the mount. If you cut the shaft, you cannot use it for the core trade-in.
1999 Toyota Camry 6cyl Finished it! Total time about 8 hours to do the
entire front. Replaced both driver and passenger parts: half-axles, tie-rod
ends, stabilizing bars, strut/spring towers, control arms, lower ball
joint. All parts from Partsgeek for under $500 shipped. Probably would have
cost $1500 to have a shop do it all (parts/labor).
this video is great help but to spread an easier way to take out the
passenger side cv axle. i have a 98 lexus es300 with the same set up or
hints the luxury camry. what i did to get the stuck bearing from out of the
back engine mount is. i used an air chisel to bust,break or in other words
broke the bearing to release its hold on both sides and it will come out
as long as you’re not loosing any brake fluid…it sounds like the wheel
bearing is starting to fail…the grease in the bearing might be starting
to cook out… if that ends up not being the problem…then i’d start to
suspect the cv joint..
Yes, remove the clip, of course. But the clip isn’t the issue on cars that
are rusted. I’ve done this repair on a number of Camry in the snow belt
region. The bearing was literally fused into the motor mount. Even after
using solvents and banging the bearing out with a mini-sledge (while
removed from the car)), small metal shards of the motor mount came out
along with the bearing, fused to the bearing.
@bobioni57 ok..i understand now…yeah, that is correct.
thanks! and thanks for watching!
I have an ’06 Camry. Had to put a $60 core deposit on the CV / Axles. Can I
get the axle out without cutting. Was that your discussion at the end of
the vid? Do you have any idea of how long the struts last on these cars? I
have a 112,000 mi on mine. The car is not bouncing or oscillating…yet.
THAKS DUDE THAT WAS GREAT I WASNT SURE HOW TO DO THAT!!!! THANKS ALOT!!!!!
thanks for watching.
all right thank you 🙂
I went thru this on my ’95 Camry 4 cyl and its old bearing housing had
fused with the motor mount. Instead of cutting the old axle, I removed the
old axle intact and stuck inside the motor mount being as I needed it
intact for the refund on the core charge as I got a rebuilt axle. It took
quite some fiddling to get the motor mount’s alignment dowels to let go
from the block with the axle still attached, but I got it done. Then I had
a shop use their torch and press to get them to separate.
My snap ring at the carrier bearing is gone. My axle slid out. I have now
seated it back in but cannot find what size snap ring. Is it a special one
(dealer only) or can I go to the DIY store and get a generic one. Even
though they dont know what I am talking about they sell the assorted packs
of them.
Also, if you remove the top bolt from the soft rubber mount (how do you get
to it?) then you do not need to cut the axle. Thanks again for creating
this video and all of your helpful responses to the comments.
good work! that’s some good advice…a lot of people should benefit from
way you did it. thanks for the insight and thanks for watching!
Be careful when ordering replacement shafts. Not sure if my car was made in
US or Japan I selected Japan (too lazy to go look at driver side door) and
got axles with no spline on the transmission end. I was working at the auto
hobby shop on Naval Base San Diego and they ordered from a local parts
store. Got them in 20 mins and they were cheaper than the wrong ones I
ordered on Amazon. I was lucky, but it pays to do your homework (like
watching this video) before taking apart the car.
about 2 hours if you have your mid-shaft bearing frozen into your motor
mount. if the bearing can be freed from the motor mount while it’s still on
the car…about an hour.
Mount bolts on engine block, and it was stripped but I got it all fixed up,
man was that midshaft hard to remove from the mount, I didn’t cut the axle
due to $75 core charge, but everything is just fine ,great video thanks
very helpful for a first time axle remove
I got it out with a slide hammer and Axle Puller Adapter without having to
take out the motor mount. you can probably rent a slide hammer and axle
puller adapter at advanced auto parts or auto zone
THANKS!! THAT BEARING HAD MY BROTHER AND I STUCK FOR 3 DAYS…FINALLY HAD A
FRIEND COME WITH HIS SLEDGE HAMMER, HE SUGGESTED TO PUT THE TRANS IN
NEUTRAL SO IT COULD SPIN TO HIT EACH SIDE OF THAT SHAFT BY THE
BEARING…..AS HE WAS HITTING, I WAS TURNING THE AXLE AND PULLING AT THE
SAME TIME, AND IT FINALLY BROKE FREE 🙂 OF COURSE THE NEW ONE SLID RIGHT IN
LIKE NOTHING WAS EVER THERE..EVEN DOWN HERE IN NORTH CAROLINA THOSE
BEARINGS SEIZE UP 🙁
you forgot to tell everyone about the 17mm bolt on top of the motor mount
you could try a DIY store, but i think you’d be better off going to a
dealer..it probably is a specific circumfrence (inside and out) and
thickness… i doubt it would be too expensive. hope you find it for a good
price. thanks for watching!
Thanks for posting these videos. I’m about to tackle this job with a
buddy’s camry. Your videos gave me a good look at the job ahead.
I have a 1991 Toyota Camry V6. It does not go through a mount but it does
go through a carrier type of bracket. Could I use the same type of vice
grips strategy to hammer it out of the differential? Also, do I need to
drain the differential fluid prior to removing the intermediate shaft from
the differential. thanks in advance
that’s good info! i never ran into that before…the only ones i’ve seen
without splines were the ones for the v6 engine. thanks for letting people
know about that and thanks for watching!
@1good168 hi. once the axle is cut and the motor mount is unbolted from the
engine/frame..the axle end should pull right out of the differential
without any resistance. thanks for watching.
hi, i have not done one on that new of a camry. i looked up the part. it is
very similar, but they might have improved the design so it won’t seize up
as bad. i would try to get it out with the mount is still in the car. good
luck and thanks for watching!
Why couldn’t you just use the same vice grips to tap it out instead of
cutting it ?
there is an internal c-clip that can be removed by using a flat screw
driver and a pair of pliers, this way you can take the shaft out with out
taking out the engine mount, i have done this about 200 times without any
issue
the damn cup still attached to th box, i couldnt removed it,i pried it and
nothin but the box is already out
Well I did everything on the video and I am in rust region, I unbolted the
bearing nut, and 2 of the mount bracket until I got to the last mount
bracket bolt which is stripped , I didn’t hammer the bearing for more than
5 min which didn’t even move, what should I Do?. HELP
sweet! i never seem to get that lucky.. thanks for watching!
Thanks for all your help. My motor mount was bad and needed replacing. As
tricky as it was positioning the bracket and mount during removal, what is
your suggestion for installation; bracket then motor mount, motor mount
then bracket, or assembled and installed as one?